Green - Best climbs Rocky Mountain National Park: over 100 of the best routes on crags and peaks

Stewart M. Green, living in Colorado Springs, Colorado, is a contract writer and photographer for Falcon Publishing/Globe Pequot Press. Hes written over twenty travel and climbing books for Globe Pequot, including Best Climbs Moab, Best Climbs Denver and Boulder, KNACK Rock Climbing, Rock Climbing Colorado, Rock Climbing Europe, Rock Climbing Utah, Rock Climbing Arizona, and Rock Climbing New England. Stewart, a lifelong climber, began his climbing career in Colorado at age twelve in 1965 and has since climbed all over the world. Hes also a professional climbing guide with Front Range Climbing Company and the About.com Guide to Climbing. Visit him at www.stewartgreen.com.

Climbing Equipment

Boulder Rock Club

2829 Mapleton Ave.

Boulder, CO 80301

(800) 836-4008 ext. 4

www.totalclimbing.com/page.php?pname=membership

Eastern Mountain Sports

2550 Arapahoe Ave.

Boulder, CO 80302

(303) 442-7566

Estes Park Mountain Shop

2050 Big Thompson Ave.

Estes Park, CO 80517

(866) 303-6548 or (970) 586-6548

http://estesparkmountainshop.com

Icebox Mountain Sports

505 Zerex Ave.

Fraser, CO 80442

(970) 722-7780

http://www.iceboxmtnsports.com/

Jax outdoor Gear

1200 N. College Ave.

Fort Collins, CO 80524

(970) 221-0544

http://www.jaxmercantile.com/home.php

950 East Eisenhower Blvd.

Loveland, CO 80537

(970) 776-4540

900 US 287

Lafayette, CO 80026

(720) 266-6160

Komito Boots

35 W. Riverside

Estes Park, CO 80517

(970) 586-5391

The Mountain Shop

172 N. College Ave., Suite D

Fort Collins, CO 80524

(970) 493-5720

www.themountainshop.com

Neptune Mountaineering

633 S. Broadway, Suite A

Boulder, CO 80305

(303) 499-8866

www.neptunemountaineering.com

The North Face

1711 29th St. Space #184

Boulder, CO 80301

(303) 499-1731

www.thenorthface.com

REI

1789 28th St.

Boulder, CO 80301

(303) 583-9970

www.rei.com/stores/44

REI

4025 S. College Ave.

Fort Collins, CO 80525

(970) 223-0123

www.rei.com/stores/49

Climbing Guides

Colorado Mountain School

351 Moraine Ave.

Estes Park, CO 80517

(970) 586-5758

www.totalclimbing.com

Front Range Climbing Company

722 N. 31st St.

Colorado Springs, CO 80904

(866) 572-3722

www.frontrangeclimbing.com

Management Agencies

Rocky Mountain National Park

1000 US 36

Estes Park, CO 80517

(970) 586-1206

www.nps.gov/romo

Rocky Mountain National Park Backcountry Office

(970) 586-1242

Longs Peak Climbing Conditions Report

www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/longspeak.htm

Rocky Mountain National Park Campground Reservations

Online: www.recreation.gov/

Toll free: (877) 444-6777

International: (518) 885-3639

Estes Park Information

Estes Park Convention & Visitors Bureau

Estes Park Visitors Center

500 Big Thompson Ave.

P.O. Box 1200

Estes Park, CO 80517

(800) 44-ESTES or (970) 577-9900

http://www.visitestespark.com

Medical Services

Estes Park Medical Center

555 Prospect Ave.

P.O. Box 2740

Estes Park, CO 80517

(970) 586-2317

www.epmedcenter.com

For emergencies call:

Rocky Mountain National Park Emergency Line

(970) 586-1203

Emergency call boxes are located at Wild Basin Ranger Station, Longs Peak Ranger Station, the Lawn Lake and Cow Creek trailheads, the Bear Lake parking lot, Park & Ride, and in the backcountry at the intersection of the Twin Owls and Gem Lake Trails.

Climbing across The Narrows, an exposed ledge high on the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak.

PHOTO SPENCER SWANGER

Longs Peak, Colorados fifteenth-highest mountain at 14,259 feet high, lords over Rocky Mountain National Park as its highest and most famous peak. Longs Peak dominates the park as well as the northern Front Range, its sharp visage visible from the rolling prairie and downtown Denver.

With its breathtaking beauty, towering 1,700-foot-high East Face, and lofty prominence, Longs Peak is a climbers mountain. Its easiest climbs up the Keyhole Route and the Loft Route are spectacular scrambling adventures, while its ridges and faces, including Keyhole Ridge and the sheer 945-foot-high Diamond, are some of Americas best alpine rock climbs.

Longs Peak

Climbing Longs Peak is serious business. Dont underestimate the peak, even on its easiest routes. The mountain is remote, with a long hiking approach and lots of loose rock and abrupt cliffs, and is subject to severe weather, which quickly builds over the peak. Use your best climbing judgment to evaluate changing conditions and weather, and always be prepared to retreat if necessary. Longs Peak is Colorados most dangerous Fourteener, with at least one fatality occurring every year.

The Arapaho Indians, who lived in the valleys below Longs Peak, called it Nesotaieux, or Two Guides, for its double summits and Mount Meeker. French fur trappers dubbed it Les Deux Oreilles, or Two Ears.

Leave early in the morning for every route. Most climbers depart before sunrise so theyre on their route or the summit before afternoon thunderstorms, accompanied by lightning, occur. Severe weather usually comes from the west and often is unseen, especially on the East Face, before moving in. Also consider the high elevation of all the climbing routes. Climbing and hiking above 11,000 feet is always difficult, but more so if youre not properly acclimated.

The Longs Peak climbing season is from mid-May to mid-October, with July and August the prime climbing time. Expect sunny mornings and possible violent afternoon storms with heavy rain, corn snow or graupel, and lightning. Storms can be brief showers or last all afternoon. May and June are fine for climbing, with stable weather periods. Consider all the climbs as technical outings and bring an ice axe, crampons, and rope. July and August are ideal for rock climbing on The Diamond, but severe weather often occurs in the afternoon. September and October are good for alpine routes, but expect snow above timberline and freezing temperatures. For current Longs Peak conditions, call the Rocky Mountain National Park information office at (970) 586-1206.

This classic route involves moderate hiking on a trail and third-class rock scrambling. Expect exposure, steep terrain, and loose rock. There is not a trail to the summit; route-finding is required. Its a third-class climb from July to mid-September. No park fee is required to climb from the Longs Peak trailhead.

Trailhead elevation: 9,393 feet

Elevation gain: 4,776 feet from trailhead to summit

Distance: 13.2 miles round-trip

GPS coordinates: N 40.15.17 / W 105.36.55