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Jason D. Martin - Best Climbs Red Rocks

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Best Climbs Red Rocks: summary, description and annotation

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Best ClimbsRed Rocks appeals specifically to traveling climbers and local climbers who want the best local climbing. Although the Best Climbs guides feature routes of all grades, the emphasis is on easy to moderate routes in the 5.6 to 5.10 range.
The book will include nearly 200 featured routes with each section including climbing area trivia and history in the form of short callouts, but the primary focus will be on the route selection and descriptions themselves. All routes will be shown clearly on detailed color photo topos, alongside stunning action photos and a contemporary design.

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About the Author

Jason D. Martin is an AMGA-certified Rock Guide, the director of operations for the American Alpine Institute, and a freelance writer. Much of Jasons adventure writing revolves around the work that he does in the mountains. Jason has logged innumerable days guiding in Red Rock Canyon, but also in the Cascades, the Sierra, Joshua Tree National Park, the Alaska Range, the Coast Mountains of Canada, and the Andes of Bolivia, Ecuador, and Peru. He authored Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates and coauthored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide, and Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual. Jason has put up dozens of first ascents in Red Rock Canyon, served on the board of directors for the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council for eight years, and serves as the technical director for the annual Red Rock Rendezvous climbing festival. In addition to writing about climbing and mountaineering, Jason is a playwright and film critic.

Follow Jasons outdoor, guiding, and writing adventures at:

InstagramAlpineInstitute

Twitter@AlpineInstitute

FacebookAlpineInstitute

Acknowledgments This book would not have been possible without the generous - photo 1
Acknowledgments

This book would not have been possible without the generous time, help, and support from a number of people. These include Fran Baker, Larry DeAngelo, Jared Drapala, Wyatt Evanson, Krista Eytchison, Dunham Gooding, Blake Herrington, Michael Kimm, Tom Kirby, Michael Layton, Christopher Marshall, Zach Novak, James Pierson, Alasdair Turner, John Wilder, and Dan Young.

In addition to the preceding, I would like to thank Natasha and Dave Costello. Natasha, an old friend and coworker, recommended me for this project. And DaveNatashas husbandplayed the indispensable role of editor for this book. Dave is not only an editor, but is also an author. Check out his epic adventure narrative, Flying Off Everest: A Journey from the Summit to the Sea.

There were three individuals who did a great deal more than all the rest put together. American Alpine Institute guides Doug Foust, Andy Stephen, and Andrew Yasso are three of the best mountain guides you could find, anywhere. I am deeply indebted to them for all their help with this book. They provided excellent critiques of the beta, thoughts on content, and excellent photos. If youre looking for a guide in Red Rock Canyon, you cant do much better than any one of these three.

And finally, Id like to thank all those who have written about Red Rock Canyon in the past, be it in guidebooks, in articles, or online. Climbing is a complex art, and understanding mountain features is difficult. The continuing flow of information in each of these forms adds to our collective knowledge of the Red Rocks of Southern Nevada.

Appendix A Las Vegas Climber Resources
EMERGENCY

In the event of an emergency, call 911. Professional search and rescue police officers from the Las Vegas Metro Police Department will usually respond. In most cases they do so with a helicopter. Once a patient is packaged at an accident site, the helicopter transports the patient to the road where paramedics take over with an ambulance. Most injuries are treated at the University Medical Center.

Hospitals

University Medical Center

1800 W. Charleston Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89102

(702) 383-2000

This is a Level I trauma center and perhaps the best place to take a seriously injured patient. This is where those rescued by search and rescue tend to be taken.

From the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon Scenic Drive, drive east on Charleston Boulevard (NV 159) for 15 miles, or approximately 35 minutes. The hospital is on the left (north) side of the road, just west of I-215.

Summerlin Hospital Medical Center

657 N. Town Center Dr.

Las Vegas, NV 89144

(702) 233-7000

Summerlin Hospital has excellent emergency services and is just 15 minutes from the Red Rock Canyon Scenic Drive.

From the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon Scenic Drive, drive east on Charleston Boulevard (NV 159) for 6.2 miles. Turn left on Town Center Drive and drive 2 miles to the Summerlin Hospital.

SHOWERS

Theres no such thing as a free lunch or a free shower. But you can find a shower relatively close to the conservation area:

Veterans Memorial Leisure Services Center

101 N. Pavilion Center Dr.

Las Vegas, NV 89144

(702) 229-1100

Red Rock Climbing Center

8201 W. Charleston Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89117

(702) 254-5604

GEAR AND EQUIPMENT

Desert Rock Sports

8221 W. Charleston Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89117

(702) 254-1143

REISummerlin

710 S. Rampart Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89145

(702) 951-4488

REIGreen Valley Ranch

220 Village Walk Dr., Suite 150

Henderson, NV 89052

CLIMBING GYMS

Red Rock Climbing Center

8201 W. Charleston Blvd., Suite 150

Las Vegas, NV 89117

(702) 254-5604

redrockclimbingcenter.com

Origin: Climbing and Fitness

7585 Commercial Way, Suite J

Henderson, NV 89011

(702) 570-7030

originclimb.com

American Alpine Institute guides may be booked out of Origin.

Nevada Climbing Centers

3065 E. Patrick Ln., Suite 4

Las Vegas, NV 89120

(702) 898-8192

nvclimbing.com

The Refuge: Climbing and Fitness

6283 S. Valley View Blvd., Suite C

Las Vegas, NV 89118

climbrefuge.com

Appendix BClimbing Instruction

Selecting an appropriate guide service is a complex decision. Perhaps the best way to determine if a given service is appropriate for you is to evaluate the companys professionalism. To do this, you must first pose a series of questions to the guide service.

What are the companys training requirements?

Has my guide completed any industry standardtype training such as that provided by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) or the equivalent?

Does the company employ AMGA trained/certified guides? And if so, will I have one?

What are the companys medical training requirements?

How long has my guide been guiding?

How long has the company been in operation?

Has the company had any accidents? And if so, why?

If the trip will take place outside the guides home base, how familiar is the guide with the destination?

Once youve completed this, youll need to evaluate the guide services answers carefully. Did it feel like they were being honest?

Additionally you should ask yourself the following questions about the companys professionalism after you complete your program.

Did I receive the guide that I was promised?

Did the guide/company represent the guides level of training and certification appropriately?

Did I feel safe with the guide?

Did the guide act professionally throughout the program?

Did the guide treat me with respect?

Did the company or guide return e-mails and phone calls quickly?

Several guide services operate regularly in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, including the American Alpine Institute, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, Red Rock Climbing Center, Mountain Skills, and the National Outdoor Leadership School.

The author recommends the following guide service and the following event to those looking for guided climbing or climbing instruction:

AMERICAN ALPINE INSTITUTE

(360) 671-1505

alpineinstitute.com

AAI is a world-class guide service that employs local AMGA trained and certified guides. AAI guides are deeply involved in Red Rock Canyon access and conservation efforts, while also continuing to establish new climbs throughout the conservation area.

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