Hellmich - Mini Bar: Tequila

by MITTIE HELLMICH
photographs by Frankie Frankeny

TEQUILA HAS COME A LONG WAY FROM ITS AZTEC ORIGINS from a feisty firewater fueling exuberant celebrations to an increasingly sophisticated spirit. Nevertheless, it still retains the mystique it has inherited from pulque, that ancient agave brew thought to be a gift from the gods.

Tequila is a distillate of the blue agave, a succulent plant that grows wild all over Mexico, and it is socially and economically Mexicos national drink. Its precursor, pulque, made from fermented agave juice, was once imbibed in Aztec religious ceremonies. Along with the Spanish conquistadores came the distillation process, and in 1795, Don Jos Mara Guadalupe Cuervo set up a distillery in Tequila, Mexico, to produce what is now known as tequila. Technically speaking, tequila is a mezcal that by law is produced in designated regions, mainly in the state of Jalisco. Once the huge heart, or pia, of a mature agave plant is harvested, it is cooked, producing fresh agave juice for the fermentation process. The fermented juice is then distilled and refined into many distinctive styles.

The best-quality tequilas proclaim their status as 100 percent blue agave on the label, signifying that they have superior flavor, were bottled in Mexico, and are guaranteed by law to be produced with sugars that came strictly from the blue Tequilana weber agave plant. For tequila aficionados who strive for the best-quality cocktails, whether you prefer silver or a reposado, 100 percent agave tequila brings a rich complexity to many mixed drinks, and is well worth the added expense. Typically, though, the tequilas most suitable for mixed drinks are moderately priced silver tequilas, gold tequilas, or the lesser-quality tequila blends, known as mixto tequilas, which are a fine choice especially when blending pitchers of frozen Margaritas. The latter are made with a blend of different sugars, including juice from sugar-cane, but have a minimum of 51 percent blue agave.

Unlike vodka, whose natural flavors have been filtered out, the best tequilas reflect the flavor of the agave plant and the soil in which it grew. The distillation process brings out herbaceous, earthy flavors and notes that range from vanilla to mushrooms, mint, and pepper. Tequilas have varying degrees of quality and flavor, from the harsh, rough mezcal blends to the deluxe, smooth aejos.

Following is a Tequila 101 to help you decipher the labels on the many varieties on the market:

Blanco or Plata

Blanco (white) or plata (silver) tequilas are not aged but are freshly distilled and bottled within 60 days. Double-distilled to produce clear white tequila, this spirit has a fiery quality that is a bit harsher than aged varieties. However, many tequila aficionados prefer its full-on agave flavor. Silver tequilas are perfect for fruity Margaritas, spicy concoctions, and tequila infusions. Both 100 percent agave and mixto versions are available.

Joven Abocado (Gold)

Tequilas labeled joven abocado (young and smooth) are usually termed gold or dorado, referring to their caramel color. These tequilas are not aged, merely silver tequilas containing added coloring and flavoring to mellow them slightly. They are almost always mixtos, fine for mixed drinks.

Reposado

A reposado (rested) tequila has been mellowed and improved by being aged in oak barrels for anywhere from two months to a year. Reposados are very smooth. Their pale-gold to deep-gold hues come from aging, although sometimes coloring agents have been added as well. Known to bring traces of honey and vanilla to the nose, these tequilas not only merit straight sipping, but also add a rich, warm dimension to Margaritas. Reposados are available in 100 percent agave or mixto.

Aejo

Aejo (pronounced ahn-YAY-ho) means aged, and the name says it all. These deluxe tequilas are aged in wood barrels for at least one year (but no more than five). Aejo tequilas are the sippable equivalent of a good Cognac. Typically made with 100 percent agave, they are highly regulated for quality and are label-dated. Some coloring and flavoring is permitted. The best aejos offer a perfect balance of tequila and wood, while lesser varieties tend toward a predominantly heavy wood flavor.

Mezcal (The One With the Worm)

Although an agave-based spirit, mezcal does not come specifically from the designated tequila area. It is also made from a variety of agaves rather than just from blue agave. Mezcals tend to have a smokier flavor than tequilas due to the roasting of the agave heart (agave for tequila is oven-baked). They are also distilled only once, therefore ending up decidedly harsher. There are, however, a few small-batch single village producers from the area of Oaxaca that put out high-quality mezcals. The infamous worm is actually the larva of an insect that lives in the agave plant. It serves as a sign of authenticity and reputedly bestows luck and strength upon the one who swallows it.

The evocative, magical quality of distilled agave juice not only fuels our passion for celebration but also beckons us to explore the many distinct varieties of tequila and the creative mixology they inspire. Your own thirsts may lean toward a refreshing, tangy Margarita made with a fiery silver tequila, a fruity Acapulco warmed with a gold tequila, or a cocoa-creamy after-dinner Bird of Paradise made with an ultrasmooth reposado. Whichever way your desires sway, heres the perfect opportunity to shake up your favorite tequila in these fabulous agave-infused concoctions!

Salud!

Glassware

Glassware plays an important role in the much-ritualized cocktail experience. A well-chilled vessel visually entices us with the promise of refreshment, with the right glass adding elegance to even the simplest drink. Glasses come in an endless variety of designs, styles, and colors, but when it comes to setting up your home bar, your repertoire of glassware doesnt have to be extensive to be stylishly appropriate and proficiently functional. A few basic stylescocktail glasses, highball glasses, old-fashioned and double old-fashioned glasses, champagne flutes, and wineglasseswill see you beautifully through a multitude of drinks.

Essential Bar Tools

Whether you have a swank bar setup in your favorite entertaining room or an area set aside in the kitchen, you dont need all the high-tech gadgets and gizmos to put together a well-functioning home bar. All you need are the essential bar tools to see you through just about any mixological occasion. You may already have the typical kitchen tools you need: a sharp paring knife for cutting fruit and garnishes, a cutting board for cutting fruit, a bar towel, a good corkscrew and bottle opener, and measuring spoons and cups. To these you may want to add a few of the basic bar tools: a blender with a high-caliber motor, a citrus juicer, a cocktail shaker or a mixing pitcher and stirring rod, a bar spoon, a jigger, an ice bucket and tongs, and, of course, a few cocktail picks and swizzle sticks.

Cocktail Terminology

To dash, muddle, top, or float: That is the question. When you want clarification on what exactly that all means or what it means to have a drink served up, neat, straight, or on the rocks, this miniglossary of frequently used bar terms will assist you in navigating bar talk.

. Chaser . The beverage you drink immediately after you have downed anything alcoholic, usually a shot. Typical chasers are beer, club soda, and juice.