Lucano Frederic - Secrets of Macarons

PREFACE

I NTRODUCED TO F RANCE from Italy in the 16th century by Catherine de Medici, the macaron was originally a form of pasta. The evolution of the macaron has transformed it into a ptisserie treat.

The recipe for the macaron now a biscuit made from almonds, sugar and egg whites spread quickly, and by the 17th century it was found in many French towns, including Nancy, Amiens, Saintmilion and Montmorillon.

Now a worldwide symbol of dainty indulgence, the macaron seduces tastebuds and practically invites itself onto our plates.

This small round biscuit, crisp and tender at the same time, has transcended generations and is more in-vogue than ever. Gourmands can let go of their guilt because the macaron represents just a little mouthful to lift the spirits. Even allergy-sufferers can fall in love with this gluten-free treat.

The infatuation for this must-have small sweet is thus far from finished, and we can always pay homage by creating new flavours.

In a thorough approach to the subject, in this book I try to offer some tips and tricks, an analysis of what can go wrong, and a considered selection of the necessary equipment and ingredients. Every step is explained simply, to maximise your chances of success. Rest assured that macarons are no harder to achieve at home than a choux or flaky pastry.

Take pleasure in making these little biscuits, let yourself be guided by your fancy, and treat yourself to this little luxury that you can (almost) consume without moderation!

TABLE OF CONTENTS

THE ALMOND

The almond is an oleaginous (oily) seed with a pale and crunchy flesh that can be sweet or bitter (in the case of wild almonds)

COMPOSITION

T HE FRUIT OF the almond tree, the almond is a nut enclosed in a green pod, as downy to the touch as a peach.

When it is harvested in early summer, the fruit is not ripe: it is hard and not juicy.

Its thick shell encloses a kernel called an almond, a precious seed with a high oil content, which is edible in various forms.

For macarons, ground almonds are used. Almond meal is made by grinding blanched almonds, and is widely available in stores.

The nutritional information for 100 g (3 oz) almonds:

Water...............2.6 g (1/16 oz)

Protein...............23.6 g (1 oz)

Carbohydrates...............5.6 g (1/8 oz)

Fats...............52.9 g (1 oz)

Magnesium...............2.3 g (1/16 oz)

Energy...............2490 kJ (593 cal)

THE ORIGINS OF THE ALMOND

T HE ALMOND TREE is thought to have originated in the warm and dry regions of the Near and Middle East. It was introduced to Spain by the Arabs, and from there spread throughout the Mediterranean Basin. It had to wait until the middle of the 18th century for Spanish Franciscan monks to take it to North America, or, more precisely, to California.

Today, California is the worlds largest almond producer, closely followed by Spain.

ALMONDS: A NATURAL DIETARY SUPPLEMENT

H IGH IN FIBRE , protein, minerals and vitamins E and B12, almonds are a substitute for many dietary supplements at a much more economical price.

Almonds protect our bodies from the accumulation of excess acid due to an unbalanced diet high in sugar, fat and animal proteins. They contribute to the prevention of cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis and obesity. They help to lower levels of bad cholesterol in the body, restore energy to sufferers of malnutrition and are a safe substitute for people with food allergies (in particular to gluten, lactose, etc.).

For these reasons, almonds have a natural role to play in our daily diet, especially in vegetarian cuisine.

Did you know? 30 g (1 oz) almonds provides as much protein as a tub of yoghurt or a glass of milk.

THE ALMOND: A USERS GUIDE

HOW ARE SWEET ALMONDS USED?

T HE FIRST FRESH , sweet almonds of the season, green almonds, are enjoyed as a dessert.

The dried kernel (whole, roasted, flaked, crushed, or in the form of a paste, cream or milk) is eaten as is, or used as an ingredient in a wide range of cakes, biscuits, sweets and confectionery (sugared almonds, nougat, marzipan, frangipane and orgeat syrup (see )).

But almonds arent limited to sweet dishes: they are often served with meat and fish, and flavour savoury dishes such as stuffings, pestos and flavoured butters.

ARE BITTER ALMONDS EDIBLE?

D RIED BITTER ALMONDS are poisonous in large quantities because they contain hydrogen cyanide (Prussic acid). Small quantities are, however, used in pastry making and confectionery, for example in the famous coucougnette sweets from the French town of Pau.

AND FOR MACARONS?

G ROUND ALMONDS, WHICH are widely available, are processed with more or less equal quantities of icing sugar depending on the type of recipe (). The resulting mixture is called the tant pour tant (literally: so much for so much).

CAN I USE WHOLE ALMONDS AND GRIND THEM MYSELF?

Y ES . T HE FLAVOUR will be stronger but it will take a little more time.

Drop whole almonds into boiling water and leave them for 2 minutes, then drain. To remove their skin, squeeze the almonds between your thumb and index finger.

Roughly chop the almonds with a knife or in the food processor, then dry them out in the oven for 10 minutes at 120C (235F/Gas ). Keep an eye on them because they mustnt colour.

Once the almonds have cooled, process them until you have a fine powder. Make sure you dont overload the processor: it is better to grind the almonds in several batches because they contain a lot of oil and theres a risk that theyll turn into a paste.

Return the ground almonds to the oven (120C/235F/Gas with fan-forced setting turned off) for 10 minutes.

Once cooled, process and sift with the icing sugar.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO PROCESS AND/OR SIFT THE TANT POUR TANT?

T HE GROUND ALMONDS are processed with the icing sugar to create a fine powder. This stage shouldnt be skipped because it gives you a smooth batter, without any lumps.

The macaron shells will be smooth and shiny as a result. Once the tant pour tant is processed, you just need to sift it using a fine strainer or drum sieve.

CAN THE