Punyaratabandhu - Bangkok: stories and recipes from the heart of Thailand

Notes on
Ingredients

Banana Blossoms ( HUA PLI ): These rugby ballshaped, reddish purple flowers come with several tough petals concealing tiny immature bananas. These outer petals are too tough to eat and the little bananas too bitter. Both need to be removed layer by layer until you get to the tender, light-colored core that is the palatable part. A banana blossom oxidizes and turns brown once it is cut open, so it needs to be submerged in acidulated water right away until it is used. Banana blossoms are sold fresh in the produce section of many well-stocked Asian stores specializing in Southeast Asian ingredients; they also come trimmed and packed in brine in a glass jar. The type that comes in brine is acceptable in recipes in which the blossoms are cooked. However, in this book, banana blossoms are served as a side vegetable and, therefore, need to be fresh.

Basil, Holy ( BAI KA-PHRAO ): This basil comes in two varieties, reddish and green, both with soft, fuzzy hair on their stems and leaves. Both are perfectly interchangeable. Holy basil is used in stir-fries and in some spicy curries, and, in Thailand, it is the sine qua non ingredient in Thai spicy basil stir-fry (phat ka-phrao; ). But if it is not available where you live, Mediterranean or Thai sweet basil will perform adequately in its place.

Basil, Lemon ( BAI MAENG LAK ): In this book, lemon basil, which has narrow, ovate, pale green leaves and a pleasing citrusy scent, is used to accompany . In Thailand, this is the only basil you will usually see paired with this dish. In its absence, Mediterranean or Thai sweet basil is a better substitute than holy basil.

Basil, Thai Sweet ( BAI HORA-PHA ): With purple stems and dark purple flowers, Thai sweet basil is probably the best-known Asian basil around the world. It has a sweet, unassertive flavor and fragrance that allows it to stand in for both holy basil and lemon basil (those two, on the other hand, dont always perform well in its place), making it the most versatile of the three main basil varieties used in Thai cooking. Fortunately, its also the most widely available outside of Thailand.

Cha-om ( BAI CHA-OM ): The cha-om plant is a small shrub with thorny stalks, tender tips, and fragrant leaves. Only the leaves and tips are used in cooking, most commonly in panfried cakes, stir-fries, and soups. Look for fresh cha-om stalks in the produce section and frozen leaves in the freezer section of Southeast Asian grocery stores. For tips on working with both fresh and frozen cha-om, see the recipe on for cakes made with cha-om.

Chiles, Dried Birds Eye ( PHRIK KHI NU HAENG ): Small and potent, these are red birds eye chiles (see entry) that have been dried whole. They are used in curry pastes, dipping sauces, and in a wide variety of dishes. Although dried birds eye chiles and dried Thai long chiles (see entry) are sometimes interchangeable, the amounts called for often differ, as the birds eyes are much hotter.

Chiles, Dried Thai Long ( PHRIK CHI FA HAENG ): Used primarily to impart flavor and color to chile pastes and curry pastes, these are red Thai long chiles (see entry) that have been dried whole. If you cannot find them, dried guajillo chiles (Hatch or New Mexico) can be used in their place. Dried birds eye chiles can also be substituted, but because they are more fiery, you will need to reduce the amount.

Chiles, Fresh Birds Eye ( PHRIK KHI NU ): Also colloquially referred to as Thai chiles, these small, superhot chiles are used in countless Thai dishes and seasoning ingredients. Red birds eye chiles are a bit milder and sweeter, with a more noticeably floral aftertaste, whereas green ones have a faint herbaceous scent. Unless otherwise specified, both can be used interchangeably.

Chiles, Fresh Thai Long ( PHRIK CHI FA ): Typically ranging in length from 2 to 4 inches, these slender chiles are milder than birds eye chiles. They come in red, green, and orange, and are ideal in condiments or curry pastes where you want bright color but less heat than birds eyes would deliver. If you cannot find red or green long chiles, jalapeo or serrano chiles are acceptable substitutes.

Chinese Broccoli ( PHAK KHANA ): A Chinese leafy green with stalks slimmer and more tender than Western broccoli, this versatile vegetable is used extensively in Thai cooking. The deep green leaves and stalks are cut up and used in stir-fries or steamed or blanched and added to one-plate rice meals or noodle dishes. In the United States, Chinese broccoli, which is often labeled kai lan or gai lan (its Cantonese name), can be found at most Asian grocery stores and some mainstream supermarkets.

Chinese Flowering Mustard Greens ( PHAK KWANG TUNG