For the four I love, Isa, Jean, Zo, Basile. A big thank you to Marie-Pierre who survived a horde of surfers and an invasion of gremlins to take all of the photos Hey, Im still missing a knak A big thank you to Jos who survived gallons of red and mountains of food to draw, munch, scribble and, above all, get me cooking A godsend for a cook Thanks to my spiritual guide Jacky Dulou and also to his brothers: Jacky Cotivet in Lyon, Jacky Itxaqiss in the Basque Country, Jacky Lamazou in Brittany, Jacky Hans in Alsace, Jacky Marsouille, in Provence Hmm, theyve all got something in common! Thanks to Msieur Pignon for his tripely presence. Thanks to GG for his scallops, thats cunning for a journalist. Thanks to all of you who posed without smiling Photos are a serious business! Thanks to Emmanuel and Amaryllis for their patience, all , its Madame Ciminninininni on the line. This edition published in 2015 by Murdoch Books, an imprint of Allen & Unwin published by Murdoch Books in 2008. Reprinted 2009, 2010, 2011
First published by Marabout (Hachette Livre) 2007
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English Translation: Melissa McMahon Copyright Marabout (Hachette Livre) 2007 National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication Data:
Reynaud, Stphane.
Ripailles / Stphane Reynaud.
ISBN 9781925267631 (Ebook).
Includes index.
Cookery, French.
641.5944 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Moulin Rouge , G. Auric, L. Larue and W. Engvick 1953 Gower Music Inc.
Used by permission of EMI Davis Music Australia Pty Limited (ABN 37 000 006 799).
International copyright secured.
All rights reserved. Every effort has been made prior to publication to contact the copyright holders of music reproduced in this book.
Copyright holders should contact the publisher to arrange appropriate acknowledgements in future editions.
SOMMAIRE/CONTENTS
I remember the Sundays of my childhood (just one a week wasnt enough), when, once everyone was seated around the table, we seemed to put down roots so that the moment became eternal. Everything seemed to stop, benevolence reigned. We needed solid constitutions to withstand the advancing tide of entres, brave the bountiful hordes of meats with all their trimmings, find a residue of appetite when faced with the quasi-national cheese board and finally lay low our hunger with creams and cakes. The meals lingered on there was a lot to be eaten! Youll have some more gratin wont you, mon ptit ? Youre shooting up, at your age you need to eat, my grandmother would say to me, wrapped in her fetching flowered apron, after already serving me two helpings.
There was something noble about eating, a true privilege of the strong of body. To be well built you needed a good appetite, and appetite, believe me, was something everyone had. The smell of strong coffee and escargot-scented burps rang out at the end of the feasting, and there we stayed, blissfully content, slumped over the table, which looked like a victorious battlefield, bellies full with gourmand memories. With the benefit of hindsight I suspect that was due also to the effect of the eaux-de-vie taken at the end of the meal, the product of many fruits distilled by a family friend, which encouraged a state of general agreeableness and a shared lethargy. Songs punctuated the day, old classics at the beginning of the meal, turning X-rated once the Vieille Prune had the upper hand. In short, the dominical meal had a perpetually festive air.
The reddened faces bore witness to this. The late-afternoon walk, a gentle excuse to digest, only served to allow the 6 oclock champagne to chill in peace. Then came the time for sponge fingers drowning in cups filled to the brim. Never mind, a Sunday that begins well must end well. Out come the boules , the crowd is reassembled, hunting and fishing memories turn into epics, football matches into World Cup finals Its a ripaille and its good. Its late, the leftovers have gone, the dregs of the bottles have dried up, the yawns become contagious, the time to say goodbye has come Bring on next Sunday!
La Charcuterie de COLETTE SIBILIA COLETTE SIBILIAs Charcuterie La ferme au gras
de BERNADETTE BERNADETTES Fat Farm LE JAMBON CRU LE BEAUJOLAIS Faire ses conserves la maison Make your own preserves CHARCUTERIE, tout est permis! Anything goes! Canard gras en kit The fattened duck kit FOIE GRAS MI-CUIT EN CONSERVE AU NATUREL Semi-cooked foie gras preserved naturally
La charcuterie
de Colette Sibilia Colette Sibilia is the living memory of all that a Lyon charcuterie can offer our fickle palates.
Queen of the cervelas , champion of the graton , expert in the sabodet , Colette chops up and packages innards and chitterlings, and tends to sausage meat like others tend their roses, allowing her sausages to acquire a natural bloom. As a worthy representative of the history of all things porcine, Colette has communicated her passion for porky products to a whole generation of gourmands. She has been able to elevate this excellent animal to the rank of international star so that it shines under the floodlights of all self-respecting kitchens.
pt de lapin au romarin RABBIT PT WITH ROSEMARY FOR 1 GOOD-SIZED TERRINE - PREPARATION TIME: 45 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR + 48 HOURS RESTING TIME Rabbit 1 x 600 g Chicken livers 200 g Pork loin 200 g Pouring cream 200 ml Eggs 2 Soft white sandwich bread 1 slice French shallots 2 Rosemary 2 sprigs White port 50 ml White wine 1 glass Grated ginger 1 teaspoon Quatre-pices 1 teaspoon Salt, pepper Debone the rabbit, dice the chicken livers and the pork loin. Marinate for 12 hours with the port, white wine, diced shallots and one sprig of rosemary. Add the spices.
Soak the bread in the cream. Chop up the rest of the meat with the bread, add the eggs, then the marinated meats, mix together and season with salt and pepper. Place the other sprig of rosemary on top. Cook in a bain-marie for 1 hour in a 180C oven. Chill for 48 hours before serving. wine: condrieux