Scicolone Michele - The Mediterranean slow cooker

A few years ago, I cleared out a shelf in my kitchen to make room for a brand-new slow cooker. Before long I was using it to turn out some of my favorite Italian dishesrich, meaty ragus to serve over chunky pastas, the unctuous veal shanks known as osso buco , and the creamiest, easiest polenta I have ever madeeach as good as the traditional version, but far easier, and no stirring required. When I went on to try my hand at adapting French dishes, I loved how the slow cooker helped me reduce the three-day odyssey of a cassoulet to a manageable weekday meal.

But why stop there? Countries beyond the borders of Italy and France boast similar slow-cooked dishes that may be less familiar, but no less sumptuous, some with colorful stories to go with them. One such dish, , is customarily made in a covered clay pot. In the slow cooker, the chicken and its sauce, redolent of wine and herbs, send out clouds of fragrant steam that never fail to draw guests to the table.

The Mediterranean also offers options for hearty meatless meals. Moroccan is hearty and chunky with vegetables, just right on a cold, rainy night.

Beyond the usual soups and stews, I discovered a multitude of possibilities. I cant resist , make a unique first course or side dish.

Like favas, chickpeas do beautifully in the slow cooker, which simmers them to perfection so that they can be used in such Out of the Pot dishes as great for a party.

When it comes to dessert, there is no reason to abandon the slow cooker. Try my creamy Spanish-style with chocolate chips and a sprinkling of pistachios will win raves at your next dinner party.

No longer reserved for the occasional pot roast, my slow cooker has earned an honored spot in my kitchen. More than that, its become a carefree way to replicate the secrets of exotic kitchens with minimal effort.

Slow cookers have come a long way since they were introduced in the early 1970s. The homely avocado green pots of yesteryear have given way to gleaming stainless steel or handsome brushed aluminum exteriors and easier-to-clean removable porcelain inserts.

Every year, manufacturers turn out new models with added features. Some include different-size inserts for small and large batches of food, while others have flameproof inserts that can be used on the stovetop or in a conventional oven. Some models are preprogrammed to cook popular recipes like chili or stew, and others automatically switch from one temperature setting to another.

Despite the new bells and whistles, slow cookers all cook pretty much the same way, and there is a slow cooker model for just about every need and budget. While I cant tell you which one is best for you, I can tell you some of the things that I look for:

• Large capacity. Cookers ranging from 5 to 7 quarts are the most practical. They can handle a whole chicken or a roast, a large batch of stew or soup, or even a small cake. Leftovers are great for a later meal. Note: All the recipes in this book are designed for a large, 5- to 7-quart cooker.
• A removable insert for easy cleaning and serving.
• A glass lid that allows you to see how the food is cooking without having to lift the lid.
• A heatproof handle on the lid so that you dont need to use a pot holder when removing it.
• A dishwasher-safe lid and insert for easier cleanup.
• High, low, and warm temperature settings. The low setting is best for cooking meats and soups, which need time to develop flavor, while the high setting is good for delicate foods like desserts, eggs, and fish. The warm setting is good for keeping hot cooked foods ready to eat. Dont use a slow cooker for reheating, because it takes too long to bring the food to the right temperature.
• A programmable timer.
• A signal light that shows at a glance when the cooker is operating.
• A beeper that sounds when the cooking time is up.
• An automatic temperature shift to warm when the cooking is done, in case the meal is delayed.

Here are some other features that are nice, but not essential:

• A preprogrammed 1-hour high setting that brings food up to a safe cooking temperature quickly, then automatically switches to whatever setting you prefer.
• An insert that can be used on the stovetop or in the oven for browning ingredients before they are returned to the slow cooker.
• A locking lid so that you can transport the filled pot without spilling.
• A hinged lid attached to the pot.
• A lid with a built-in spoon holder.
• A temperature probe.
• Lines on the inside of the insert marking the volume of the contents.