Shelagh - Guatemala Travel Adventures

Guatemala Adventure Guide

2nd Edition

Shelagh McNally

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,

www.hunterpublishing.com

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montral, Qubec

Canada H2W 2M5

tel. 514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448

Windsor Books

The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington

Oxford, OX44 9EJ England

tel. 01865-361122; Fax 01865-361133

2010 Hunter Publishing, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

It's always an adventure visiting Guatemala and there were quite a few people who helped me along the way. I can't name you all, but there are few that cannot be missed.

Elizabeth Maher and Tom Dunn kept my home fires burning while I went off exploring. My daughter, Shannon Tosic-McNally, provided some important translating while my mother, Lynne Colvey (an intrepid traveler even in her 70s) reminded me to keep my sense of humor and relax. Thanks to all of you for helping me keep it together.

I'm grateful to the wonderful people of Guatemala for their continued kindness and generosity in sharing their country. They inspire me.

This book wouldn't have been as well put together without the tireless patience and dedication of my editor Kim Andr. Always a pleasure working with you, Kim.

To Guadalupe. Where would I be without your advice?

Shelagh McNally is a Canadian writer who has been visiting Latin America since the mid 1970s. She lived in Mexico from 1997-2002, where she began exploring Guatemala while working as a writer for Mundo Maya magazine and other travel publications. She's visited over 35 Maya ruins and still misses the view from atop the pyramids. Her primary residence these days is Montreal, Canada, where she works as an environmental journalist and travel writer. Her Spanish is still terrible.

1. Introduction
   1. HISTORY
      1. MUNDO MAYA
      2. COLONIAL TIMES
      3. INDEPENDENCE
      4. LAYING THE FOUNDATION FOR WAR
      5. THE SCORCHED EARTH
      6. HOPE FOR PEACE
   2. GEOGRAPHY & LAND
      1. BORDERS
      2. REGIONS
         1. CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
         2. LOS ALTOS
         3. NORTHERN HIGHLANDS
         4. EL PETEN
         5. IZABAL
      3. EASTERN PLAINS
      4. PACIFIC COAST
      5. PARKS & RESERVES
   3. FLORA & FAUNA
      1. PLANTS
      2. FORESTS
      3. CROPS
      4. WILDLIFE
      5. INSECTS
      6. BIRDS
   4. GOVERNMENT & ECONOMY
      1. POLITICS
      2. ECONOMY
   5. THE PEOPLE
      1. CULTURAL GROUPS & RELIGION
      2. LANGUAGE
      3. FOOD
      4. DRINKS
2. Travel Information
   1. When To Go
      1. Climate
      2. Seasonal Concerns
      3. Holidays & Festivals
      4. Measurements
      5. Money
      6. Documents
   2. Getting Here
   3. Getting Around
   4. Staying in Touch
   5. Accommodations
   6. Personal Safety
      1. Travel Warnings
   7. Staying Healthy
      1. Serious Ailments
3. Top 20 Attractions
4. Guatemala City
   1. HISTORY
   2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
   3. ADVENTURES ON FOOT/SIGHTSEEING
   4. WHERE TO STAY
   5. WHERE TO EAT
   6. NIGHTLIFE
   7. DAY-TRIPS
5. Central Highlands - The Gringo Trail
   1. Department of Sacatepquez
      1. LA ANTIGUA
         1. HISTORY
         2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
         3. SPANISH LANGUAGE EDUCATION
         4. SIGHTSEEING
         5. ADVENTURES ON FOOT
         6. ADVENTURES ON HORSEBACK
         7. ADVENTURES ON WHEELS
         8. DAY & OVERNIGHT TRIPS
         9. WHERE TO STAY
         10. WHERE TO EAT
         11. NIGHTLIFE
   2. Department of Chimaltenango
      1. HISTORY
      2. SAN ANDRES ITZAPA
      3. SAN JUAN COMALAPA
      4. TECPAN
      5. MAYA RUINS
   3. Department of Solol
      1. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
      2. SOLOL
      3. PANAJACHEL
      4. VILLAGES OF LAKE ATITLAN
         1. Eastern Lake Atitln
            1. SANTA CATARINA PALOPO
            2. SAN ANTONIO PALOP"
            3. SAN LUCAS TOLIMAN
         2. Western Lake Atitln
            1. SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA
            2. JABALITO
            3. SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA
            4. SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA
            5. SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA
            6. SANTIAGO ATITLAN
6. Los Altos
   1. HISTORY
   2. Department of Quetzaltenango
      1. QUETZALTENANGO/XELA
         1. HISTORY
         2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
         3. SCHOOLS
         4. SIGHTSEEING
         5. ADVENTURES ON FOOT
            1. VOLCANO ADVENTURES
         6. DAY-TRIPS
         7. WHERE TO STAY IN XELA
         8. WHERE TO EAT IN XELA
   3. Department of Totonicapn
      1. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
      2. VILLAGES OF TOTONICAPAN
   4. Department of Huehuetenango
      1. HISTORY
      2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
      3. HUEHUETENANGO
      4. VILLAGES OF HUEHUETENANGO
   5. Department of San Marcos
      1. TECUN UMAN
7. Northern Highlands
   1. Department of Quich
      1. HISTORY
      2. CHICHICASTENANGO
      3. SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHE
      4. THE IXIL TRIANGLE
      5. IXCN
   2. Departments of Las Verapaces
      1. HISTORY
      2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
      3. SALAMA
      4. COBAN
      5. CHISEC
8. El Petn
   1. History
   2. Flora & Fauna
   3. Melchor de Mencos
      1. Getting Here & Getting Around
      2. Adventures on Foot
   4. Lake Petn Itz
      1. Flores
   5. Izabal
      1. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
      2. MORALES-BANANERA
         1. HISTORY
         2. QUIRIGUA RUINS
         3. WHERE TO STAY & EAT
      3. MARISCOS
         1. WHERE TO STAY
      4. PUERTO BARRIOS
         1. HISTORY
         2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
         3. ADVENTURES ON FOOT
         4. ADVENTURES ON WATER
         5. WHERE TO STAY
         6. WHERE TO EAT
   6. Ro Dulce
      1. RIO DULCE, EL RELLENO, FRONTERAS
         1. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
         2. ADVENTURES ON WATER
         3. ADVENTURES ON FOOT
      2. EL GOLFETE
         1. ADVENTURES IN NATURE
         2. ADVENTURES ON WATER
         3. CULTURAL ADVENTURES
         4. WHERE TO STAY IN RIO DULCE
         5. WHERE TO EAT IN RIO DULCE
      3. SAN FELIPE
         1. SIGHTSEEING
         2. WHERE TO STAY & EAT
      4. LIVINGSTON
         1. HISTORY
         2. GETTING HERE
         3. ADVENTURES ON FOOT
         4. ADVENTURES ON WATER
         5. WHERE TO EAT
      5. EL ESTOR
         1. HISTORY
         2. GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
         3. ADVENTURES ON WATER
         4. CULTURAL ADVENTURES
         5. WHERE TO STAY
         6. WHERE TO EAT
9. Eastern Plains
   1. Department of Zacapa
      1. HISTORY
      2. GUALN
         1. WHERE TO STAY & EAT
      3. RIO HONDO (WATER PARK HAVEN)
         1. WHERE TO STAY, PLAY & EAT
      4. CITY OF ZACAPA
         1. SIGHTSEEING
         2. WHERE TO STAY & EAT
   2. Department of El Progreso
      1. SAN AGUSTN ACASAGUASTLAN
      2. SAN CRISTOBAL ACASAGUASTLAN
         1. WHERE TO STAY & EAT