Arghiris - Guatemala

Guatemala has a monopoly on colour: from the red lava tongues of the volcanoes in the western highlands to the creamy shades of the southern Petn caves, and from the white sand of the Caribbean coast to the black sand and fabulous orange sunsets over the Pacific. And thats just natures palette. Completing this work of art are traditional Maya fiestas, arcane religious rituals where idol worship and Roman Catholicism merge, and jungle temples where ancient ruins tell of long-lost civilizations.

Deep in Guatemalas northern jungle, the majestic cities of the Maya are buried. Temples, stelae and plazas have been discovered here, along with evidence of human sacrifice and astronomical genius.

Antigua is the colonial centre of the New World. Gracefully ruined after an 18th-century earthquake, its cobbled streets are lined with columned courtyards, toppled church arches, preserved pastel-coloured houses, flowers and fountains galore.

Lake Atitln and its three volcanoes are truly breathtaking. Further west, the bustling city of Quetzaltenango makes an excellent base from which to explore the volcanoes, markets and villages of the western highlands, such as the mountain community of Todos Santos, where the colourful clothes of the Maya and the All Saints Day horse race are major attractions.

In the Verapaces, rivers run through caves stuffed with stalagmites and stalactites. On the humid lower slopes of the Pacific, Olmec-influenced ruins are buried among coffee bushes and turtles nest on the shore, while on the Caribbean coast, the Garfuna rock to the sound of the punta and dolphins frolic in the sea.

Richard Arghiris

top things to do and see

Antigua

Backed by a simmering panorama of jagged volcanic peaks, the outstandingly baroque, partially ruined and unrepentantly hedonistic city of Antigua was the de facto capital of Central America for two centuries, resulting in an unrivalled architectural legacy that has earned it UNESCO World Heritage Site status. See .

Lake Atitln

Described by Alexander Von Humboldt as the most beautiful lake in the world and by Aldous Huxley as too much of a good thing, Lake Atitln is an entrancing body of water fringed by Mayan villages and hazy blue volcanoes. Laze in a hammock or explore local communities; its up to you. See .

Chichicastenango

An hour north of Lake Atitln is the famous market of Chichicastenango, a town where Maya and visitors converge in a twice weekly frenzy of buying general goods and produce, alongside textiles and tapestry. The market is alive with colour and is a must for any visitor. Also here is an atmospheric Mayan shrine. See .

Todos Santos Cuchumatn

This mountain community is famous for the distinctive colourful clothes of its indigenous Mam inhabitants and its All Saints Day horse race, one of the most celebrated and spectacular in Central America. See

Around Quetzaltenango

Maya villages and market towns, hot springs and volcanoes dot the mountains within easy reach on foot or by bus from the busy highland settlement of Quezaltenango. Highlights include the village of San Andrs Xecul, famous for its mustard-coloured domed church, and Zunil, with relaxing thermal baths. See .

Monterrico

Along the Pacific coast, the turtle-nesting sites of Monterrico are attracting visitors to this little-explored district of Guatemala. The journey to the long black sand beach takes you by boat through tangled mangrove swamps, teeming with birdlife. See .

Lvingston

The relaxed Caribbean village of Lvingston, accessible only by boat, is home to the Guatemalan Garfuna, and the starting point for trips north to Punta Gorda in Belize or, via Puerto Barrios, Placencia in Belize, or south overland to Honduras. See .

Lago de Izabal and Ro Dulce

The expansive Lago de Izabal narrows to form the fabulous Ro Dulce gorge. Skirting the northern shores of the lake is the Bocas del Polochic Wildlife Reserve, which is full of monkeys, birds and other wildlife, or you can spot manatees at the lakeside village of El Estor. See .

Semuc Champey

The numinous spectacle of Semuc Champey consists of multiple turquoise pools fed by low waterfalls. Set in the remote karst landscape of Guatemalas Alta Verapaz, youll have to travel off the beaten track to reach this natural wonder, one of the most enchanting in Central America. See .