Vanessa Betts - Cairo & Nile Delta. Includes the Pyramids of Giza, Saqqara and El-fayoum

Vanessa Betts

At the crossroads of Asia, Africa and Europe stands the metropolis of Cairo, the largest city in the Middle East and Africa and one of the most populous in the world. The Nile runs like a vein through the centre. On either bank extraordinary remains of civilizations past thousands of years of pharaonic, Coptic and Islamic history mingle with the dwellings and lives of modern Egyptians. A walk around Cairo is a walk through thousands of years: from the colossal Pyramids of Giza at the edge of the Western Desert to the Old Coptic Quarter on the east bank; along the alleys of Islamic Cairo, gushing with life and hundreds of ancient monuments, to the downtown quarter where the stunning faades of 19th-century buildings tell of the profound influence of European occupiers. And in between, the ancient monuments and modern buildings, souks and ahwas (coffee houses), bazaars and felafel stalls fill every crevice.

Pyramids in romantically ruinous state are scattered to the south of Cairo, while the north is dotted with the desolate remains of pharaonic cities. The famous Step Pyramid of Saqqara in the vast necropolis of the early pharaohs is worth visiting before going on to Giza, to see the development from the simple underground tomb to the audacious concept of the Pyramid of Cheops. Further south, the harsh desert gives way to the beautiful pseudo-oasis of El-Fayoum, a lush expanse of fields and palms offering sanctuary to some of the richest birdlife in Egypt. Ptolemaic temples, the artists enclave of Tunis and the ultramarine waters of Lake Qaroun all nestle on the edge of the arid western desert only 90 minutes from the city.

Beyond Cairo, the two main tributaries of the Nile continue northwards to meet the Mediterranean near Damietta and Rosetta, where Ottoman houses, winding medieval lanes and the picturesque expanses of the Nile are a pleasant surprise. On either side, and between the two branches, the green and fertile plains fan out to create with the help of some of the worlds oldest and most efficient irrigation systems Egypts agricultural heartland.

Planning your trip

Getting to Cairo and the Nile Delta

It is possible to fly direct to Egypt from Europe, the Middle East, the USA and most adjacent African countries. Airfares vary according to season. They peak from June to September and around other holiday times (Christmas and New Year). The cheapest times to travel are during November and January. As a rule, the earlier you buy a ticket, the cheaper it will be. Its worth checking in with a few travel agents to see if any special promotions are available and sometimes tour companies offer cheaper fares. Return tickets are usually a lot cheaper than buying two one-way tickets or opting for an open-ended return, unless you fly with a charter airline. Round-the-World tickets dont include Cairo on their standard itineraries.

From Europe From London, BMI, www.flybmi.com, British Airways, www.ba.com, and EgyptAir, www.egyptair.com, offer daily flights to Cairo International airport. Flight time is about five hours and ticket prices range from 350 in the off-season to 450 during peak tourist season. You can save a bit of money if you fly indirect via a European capital (see below), usually in Eastern Europe, Germany or Greece. Have a look at www.thomsonfly.com, www.firstchoice.co.uk, www.jet2.com and www.flythomascook.com, as there are some great deals (as low as 50 one way if you get lucky) if you dont mind starting your journey outside Cairo.

There are no direct flights from Ireland and most people fly via London. Air France, www.airfrance.com, offers direct flights to Cairo via Paris. From Germany, Lufthansa, www.lufthansa.com, via Frankfurt, and TUIfly, www.TUIfly.com, are a good budget choice from Berlin, Munich and Cologne. KLM, www.klm.com, flies to Cairo from Amsterdam. Austrian Airlines, www.aua.com, Czech Airlines, www.czechairlines.com, Malev, www.malev.hu, and Olympic Airways, www.olympic-airways.com, have services too, often at competitive prices.

From North America From New York EgyptAir offers an 11-hour daily direct flight to Cairo, ticket prices range from US$1000 in the off-season up to US$1500 during peak travel times. Most European carriers offer flights from major North American cities to Cairo via their European hubs. British Airways and KLM serve the bigger cities on the west coast. From Canada, there are direct flights with EgyptAir from Montreal two or three times a week, taking about 11 hours. Some European airlines also have connecting services from Montreal and Toronto that do not necessitate overnight stays in Europe.

From Australia and New Zealand There are no direct flights from Australia or New Zealand, but many Asian and European airlines offer services to Cairo via their hub cities. Tickets can be expensive, so it may be worth opting for a Round-the-World ticket, which could be comparable in price or even cheaper than a round-trip flight. From Australia to Egypt tickets range from about AUS$1750 during the off-season to AUS$2500 in the peak season. Qantas, www.qantas.com, Austrian Airlines, www.aua.com, and Alitalia, www.alitalia.com, in addition to a few Asian carriers, offer competitive prices.

Airport information Departure tax is included in the price of airline tickets. Confirm airline flights at least 48 hours in advance. Most airports require that travellers arrive at least two hours before international departure times. Have all currency exchange receipts easily available, though it is unlikely you will be asked for them. Before passing into the departure lounge it is necessary to fill in an embarkation card. Only a limited amount of currency can be reconverted before you leave, which is a tedious process. Sometimes suitable foreign currency is not available. It is better to budget with care, have no excess cash and save all the trouble.

Baggage allowance General airline restrictions apply with regard to luggage weight allowances before a surcharge is added; normally 30 kg for first class and 20 kg for business and economy class. If you are travelling with a charter flight or budget airline, you might have to pay for even one item of luggage to go in the hold. Carry laptops in your hand luggage, and check the airlines website to see what the restrictions are on hand luggage as this varies between different carriers.

Transport in Cairo and the Nile Delta

From camel to plane to felucca, Egypt is equipped with numerous transport options. Congestion and chaos can be a bit anxiety-inducing on long road ventures, but with a bit of courage and flexibility, you can access most areas without too much effort. As for timetables and infrastructure, the country seems to run on magic. There are few regulations and little consistency, but somehow, people always seem to get where they want to go.

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