Chris Wallace - Colombia

This is Colombia

Once defined by 1980s stereotypes of moustachioed drug lords doublefisting Uzis, Colombia has finally reclaimed its identity. Boasting a variety of untouched natural landscapes, from arid deserts and vast savannahs to snow-capped volcanoes and white-sand beaches, Colombia offers inexhaustible opportunities for exploration and adventure. Adrenalin junkies can brave the raging rivers of San Gil, while nature-lovers can travel south deep into Amazonia, where the Great River yields an abundance of flora and fauna, including pink dolphins, caimans and the worlds smallest primate. Visitors to the Zona Cafetera, Colombias largest coffee-producing region, can stay at working coffee fincas and do a bit of birding the country boasts nearly 2000 species while learning the finer points of black gold production. Seekers of urban culture will find satisfaction walking the ancient ramparts of Cartagena or visiting Bogots Gold Museum. And, when the sun goes down, Calis famous salsa clubs and Medellns upscale discos and downscale tango bars come into their own. Those eager to relax and recharge have their pick of either a Pacific coastline, where humpback whales cruise near the shore, or a Caribbean coast surrounded by crystalline waters and coral islands.

It was on the coasts that Afro-Caribbean rhythms first took hold in Colombia, leading to a musical diversity perhaps unsurpassed by any other country on the continent. Vallenato, cumbia, salsa: these sounds are ubiquitous, heard everywhere from village bars to big-city festivals. The vigorous musical pulse of the country is a testament to the mixed heritage of the population, the result of indigenous, European and African cultures co-mingling for centuries. But the Colombian experience is in the texture and the text as much as it is in the land and the music. Witness the exaggerated human figures sculpted by Fernando Botero or the dreamlike prose offered up by literary lion Gabriel Garca Mrquez.

Chris Wallace

Best of Colombia

top things to do and see

La Candelaria

Bogot is a crowded, noisy, polluted chaotic city like most capitals in Latin America. However, it is also an endearing cosmopolitan hub, rich in culture. La Candelaria, in the historical centre, is a well-preserved colonial neighbourhood notable for its churches and old houses, and the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) possesses a dazzling collection of pre-Columbian art..

Zipaquir

One of Colombias most unusual attractions is an imposing cathedral carved inside an ancient salt mine. It makes for an unforgettable day trip from the capital..

San Gil

The town of San Gil has become the unofficial capital of the Colombian adventure sports scene. Three whitewater rivers flow through or near it, offering a range of rafting to satisfy everyone from timid beginners to big water veterans. There are also opportunities for abseiling, caving and paragliding, including a flight over the spectacular Chicamocha Canyon..

Cartagena

Cartagena is colonial Spains finest legacy in the Americas, impressive in every respect. Spend several days exploring the fortified old centre, teeming with historical buildings, then laze on the citys beautiful beaches. It is the best base for visits to the Caribbean coast and the islands, and there are strange mud volcanoes nearby..

Ciudad Perdida

Located in the jungle in the far north of the country is the Lost City of the Tayrona people. The multi-day trek to this hidden archaeological site ranks alongside the Inca Trail in Peru and Roraima in Venezuela, as one of the classic South American adventures and is a truly memorable experience..

Guajira Peninsula

South Americas northernmost point is an other-worldly landscape of arid desert and saltflats that is nonetheless home to vast flocks of flamingos and to the best-preserved indigenous culture in Colombia. Visit Cabo de la Vela, where the turquoise Caribbean laps against a desolate shore, and the Parque Nacional Natural Macuira, which provides a welcome splash of green in the desert..

Medelln

Medelln has shrugged off its notorious past and is now a modern, vibrant city with a spring-like climate. There is plenty of modern art to see and fascinating places to visit in the surrounding countryside. At night, take a turn in the citys tango bars or party till dawn in Parque Lleras. The best way to get an overview of the city is to ride a