Europes oldest people are in many ways Spains most modern, always a step ahead of the rest in social attitudes, gastronomy and urban planning. The land of the Basques is a vital, optimistic place with a tangible, intoxicating spirit.
Without getting drawn into the independence debate, Euskadi (the Basque name for this part of the world) doesnt feel very Spanish. Even the most imperialistic of the Madrid establishment refer to it as El Pas Vasco, the Basque Country. Things are certainly different here; theres a strange language on road signs that would break Scrabble scoring records, weird sports are played to packed houses, it rains an awful lot and theres a subtle vibrancy that infects even the most mundane of daily tasks.
The regions biggest city, Bilbao, has managed superbly to reinvent itself from declining industrial dinosaur to cultured European metropolis. The Guggenheim museum is a powerful symbol of this, but its the vision that put it there that is even more invigorating. San Sebastin, meanwhile, is perennially popular for its superb natural setting and wonderful gourmet scene, and Vitoria, the peaceful Basque capital, is also very appealing.
Euskadi isnt very large, which means that most rural areas are within easy reach of the three cities. The rugged coast has a few excellent beaches and some very personable fishing towns. Inland, medieval towns still preserve an excellent architectural heritage, while Laguardia, by happy coincidence, is both one of the most attractive walled towns in Northern Spain and an important centre of the Rioja wine region. Outside the towns, the green hills and rocky peaks of this corner of the peninsula are an invitation into the open air.
Andy Symington
Planning your trip
Best of
Bilbao &
Basque
Region
top things to do and see
Bilbaos Casco Viejo
Bilbaos compact historic centre slots into a bend in the Nervin River and is an enchanting series of narrow streets surrounding the citys Gothic cathedral. With characterful shops and a great food market, its a lively zone of commerce and tapas-hopping and the perfect introduction to Bilbao..
Museo Guggenheim
Frank Gehrys titanium masterpiece is an unforgettable sight and a powerful symbol of the regeneration of this industrial city and its formerly moribund riverbank area. Its a building to interact with, walking around it and appreciating its perspectives from different angles. Inside, impressive permanent installations are complemented by temporary exhibitions..
San Sebastin
The scalloped bay set between craggy headlands with golden sands and an island feature give San Sebastin the most postcard-perfect setting of all Spanish cities. Beyond the beaches is an intriguing history and a standout food culture: this is the place that reinvented tapas and made modern peninsular cuisine great..
Getaria and Lekeitio
Winding your way along the Basque coastline between Bilbao and San Sebastin is a thrill of character-packed fishing towns, top seafood, spritzy dry whites and some impressive beaches. Getaria and Lekeitio make particularly enticing stops, with picturesque, active fishing harbours and great coastal scenery..
Gernika
The town whose bombing by Nationalist forces in the Civil War inspired Picassos canvas of the same name and ushered in the era of civilian casualties is no sombre shrine. The spiritual heart of Basque nationalism, its a lively place with an excellent peace museum and lots to see in the surrounding area..
Laguardia
One of Spains most attractive small towns, hilltop Laguardia basks in the sun surrounded by grapevines that produce some of the best Rioja. It makes a superb base for wine tasting and exploring the region and has a winning medieval centre, with old wine-making cellars dug out under nearly every home..
Peine del Viento sculpture by Eduardo Chillido in San Sebastin
Bilbao/ Bilbo
In an amazingly short time the dirty industrial city of Bilbao has successfully transformed itself into a buzzing cultural capital. The Guggenheim museum is the undoubted flagship of this triumphant progress, a sinuous fantasy of a building that will take your breath away. While the museum has led the turnaround, much of what is enjoyable about modern Bilbao was already there: bustling bar life, harmonious old and new architecture, a superb eating culture, and a tangible sense of pride in being a working city.
The Casco Viejo still evokes a cramped medieval past. Along its web of attractive streets, designer clothing stores occupy the ground floors where families perhaps once huddled behind the city walls. El Ensanche, the new town, has an elegant European feel to it with stately banks and classy shops lining the planned avenues. The riverbank is the most obvious beneficiary of Bilbaos leap into the 21st century: Calatravas eerily skeletal bridge, designer promenades and Gehrys exuberant Guggenheim bring art and architecture together and make the Ro Nervin the citys axis once more.