Smith Allen John - Myanmar (Burma)

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This is Burma, wrote Rudyard Kipling. It is quite unlike any place you know about. How right he was: more than a century later Myanmar remains a world apart.

Umin Thounzeh (), Sagaing Hill
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To travel here is to encounter men wearing skirt-like longyi, women smothered in thanakha (traditional make-up) and betel-chewing grannies with mouths full of blood-red juice and thats just at the airport! One of the most fascinating aspects of travel in Myanmar is the opportunity to experience a corner of Asia that, in many ways, has changed little since British colonial times. Myanmar, for instance, has yet to be completely overwhelmed by Western clothing. Its also a country of many incredible and sometimes surreal sites. Contemplate the 4000 sacred stupas scattered across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief at the Golden Rock teetering impossibly on the edge of a chasm. Ride a horse cart past colonial-era mansions. Meet multitalented monks who have taught their cats to jump, or feisty elderly Chin women, their faces tattooed with intricate designs.

Turn back the clock with a trip to this time-warped country where theres no such thing as a 7-Eleven or an ATM, and people still use horse and cart to get around. Liberate yourself from your mobile phone (it wont work here) and the internet (you can get online, but connections are sloooow) and discover a culture where holy men are more revered than rock stars. Drift down the Ayeyarwady in an old river steamer, stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay of Bengal, or trek through pine forests to minority villages scattered across the Shan Hills. Dig into the myriad dishes of the local cuisine, from a hearty bowl of mohinga noodles for breakfast to the fermented tea-leaf mixture thats a popular finish to a Burmese meal. Swap cocktails and canaps for snacks and tea sweetened with condensed milk at teahouses where you can shoot the breeze with locals.

You no doubt know that Myanmar is a troubled land. In 2011, following the previous years election, a quasi-civilian government was sworn in and Aung San Suu Kyi, at the time of research, had been released from house arrest. The tourism boycott that persuaded many to steer clear of the country for over a decade has been lifted. Its still up to you to decide whether its time to visit (). Keep in mind that the long-suffering people are everything the regime is not. Gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate, inquisitive and passionate, they want to play a part in the world, and to know what you make of their world. Yes, this is Burma come with your mind open and youll leave with your heart full.

Fresh produce at a Nyaung U market
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Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We dont think so. In fact, the sheer size and mystical aura of Yangons gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question your inner atheist. But its not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya () is equal parts religious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination ceremony or fantastic fortune-telling session. If youre looking for one reason to linger in Yangon (Rangoon) before heading upcountry, this is it.

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Inle Lake

Virtually every visitor to Myanmar (Burma) makes it here at some point, but Inle Lake () is so awe-inspiring and large that everybody comes away with a different experience. If youre counting days, youll most likely be hitting the hotspots: water-bound temples, shore-bound markets and floating gardens. If you have more time, consider day hikes or exploring the more remote corners of the lake. Either way, the cool weather and friendly folk and that placid pool of ink-like water are bound to find a permanent place in your memory.

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Bagan

More than 3000 Buddhist temples are scattered across the plains of Bagan (Pagan; ), site of the first Burmese kingdom. Dating back to between the 11th and 13th centuries, the vast majority of the temples have been renovated, as Bagan remains an active religious site and place of pilgrimage. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the most popular sunset-viewing spots, but they can be avoided. Pedal off on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruined temples, or float over the temple tops in a hot-air balloon.

Buddhist monks, Ananda Pahto Festival
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Pyin Oo Lwin

Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; ) is a one-off curiosity that makes for an easy escape from sweaty lowland Mandalay. As the former British-era summer capital, it retains a wide scattering of colonial buildings big and small and a remarkable botanical garden thats one of Southeast Asias most manicured. Today, local tourists and a new generation of elite fleeing the heat are treated to some of provincial Myanmars best cuisine and most imaginative hotels. And to give it all a photogenic twist, the local taxi service is by colourful horse and cart.

National Kandawgyi Gardens, Pyin Oo Lwin
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Mrauk U

While exploring the many temples, monasteries and ruined city walls of the former Rakhaing capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung; ) scattered along the Lemro River.

Pagoda in the hills, Mrauk U
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Thingyan

Myanmar in April is so hot that youll enjoy getting soaked at Thingyan (Water Festival; ), which marks the start of the countrys new-year celebration. The festival involves lots of drinking, dancing, singing and theatre, with the emphasis on satire even making (careful!) fun of the government. Cultural taboos are temporarily lifted, so women can kidnap young men, blacken the mens faces with soot or oil, bind their hands and dunk their heads in buckets of water until they surrender and perform a hilarious monkey dance.