Also by Jane and Michael Stern
The Lexicon of Real American Food
Confessions of a Tarot Reader (by Jane Stern)
500 Things to Eat Before Its Too Late
Roadfood Sandwiches
Two for the Road
Elegant Comfort Food from the Dorset Inn
The Loveless Cafe Cookbook
Southern California Cooking from the Cottage
Cooking in the Lowcountry
The Famous Dutch Kitchen Cookbook
Ambulance Girl (by Jane Stern)
Carbones Cookbook
Harry Carays Restaurant Cookbook
Louies Back Yard Cookbook
The Durgin-Park Cookbook
The El Charro Cookbook
The Blue Willow Inn Cookbook
Blue Plate Specials and Blue Ribbon Chefs
Chili Nation
Two Puppies
Eat Your Way Across the USA
Dog Eat Dog
Happy Trails (with Roy Rogers and Dale Evans)
Way Out West
Jane & Michael Sterns Encyclopedia of Pop Culture
American Gourmet
The Encyclopedia of Bad Taste
Sixties People
A Taste of America
Elvis World
Real American Food
Roadfood & Goodfood
Where to Eat in Connecticut
Square Meals
Goodfood
Horror Holiday
Friendly Relations
Douglas Sirk (by Michael Stern)
Auto Ads
Amazing America
Trucker: A Portrait of the Last American Cowboy (by Jane Stern)
Copyright 2014 by Jane Stern and Michael Stern
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered trademark of Random House LLC.
This work was originally published in the United States by Random House LLC, New York, in 1978. Subsequent revised editions were published in the United States by Random House LLC, New York, in 1980, Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Random House LLC, New York, in 1986, Harper Perennial, a division of HarperCollins Publishers, New York, in 1992, Broadway Books, a division of Random House LLC, New York, in 2002, 2005, and 2008, and by Clarkson Potter/ Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, New York, in 2011.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request.
ISBN 978-0-7704-3452-6
eISBN 978-0-7704-3453-3
Book design by Caroline Cunningham
Maps designed by Jeffrey L. Ward
Cover design by Daniel Rembert
Cover photographs: (ribs) Stephen Walls/iStock, (sky) soleg_1974/iStock, (sign) onepony/iStock, (horizontal sign) chrispoundsphotography/iStock, (arrow) Car Culture/Getty
Second Clarkson Potter/Publishers Edition
v3.1
Contents
Introduction
I t was almost forty years ago that we coined the term roadfood to describe local eats around America. At the time, we felt like crusaders, trying to get people to pay attention to what we considered a neglected national treasure: regional food. My, how times have changed! We now sometimes wish people didnt pay quite so much attention to itparticularly on those occasions when we must wait in line forty minutes to get a cheeseburger from a once-obscure diner that has been discovered by the media.
In the restaurant business, success isnt always a good thing, especially for humble places unprepared to handle it. You know the sad scenario: A quiet gem of a restaurant appears on TV. It gets so flooded with curiosity seekers that the regular customers who were a part of its personality cant get in. Business is so good, new cooks are hired. The menu is streamlined down to what the guy on TV talked about. Shortcuts are taken, the dining room is expanded. No doubt about it: Some of the charming one-of-a-kind eateries we have written about over the years are now multiple-location empires and their food has gone to pot. To the degree that we have set that process in motion, we apologize. Apparently our enthusiasm has been contagious. On the other hand, some favorite places have expanded with care and intelligence; their original locations are still listed in this book, along with notes about their expansion.
For all the media brouhaha about the subject, and foods seeming omnipresence in the blogosphere, the joy of traveling Roadfood-style hasnt changed all that much. As seen in the Roadfood.com Trip Reports forum, dedicated eaters plan their itineraries meal by meal and continue to enjoy the experience that we have enjoyed from the beginning: finding oneself in a restaurant very different from anyplace near home, eating food unique to the region, meeting local peoplecustomers and stafffor whom the restaurant is part of their life, their community, their identity. This new edition of Roadfood includes an Honor Roll of the 100 restaurants that we believe epitomize that experiencethe crme de la crme of regional dining all around the country.
Roadfood is about finding good food, of course. But to us, that food in a cultural vacuum, however good it might taste, is not very interesting. What makes it really delicious is all of its connectionsconnections to the people who grow it, cook it, serve it, and eat it; connections to the places that have nurtured it and given it a regional identity; connections to the history from which it arises, which in Americas case is an adventure of immigration, adaptation, invention, and audacity. Just as one mans diet can give you a vivid picture of who he is, Americas diet is a grand national portrait.
Roadfood Honor Roll: The 100
W e urge you to visit each and every one of the 900-plus restaurants in this book: We have included them because we think their food is great and the experience of eating in them is memorable. One hundred of those restaurants are starred with an asterisk to indicate that they are, to us, extra-special. We have come to love them because we believe that each is a unique expression of something wonderful about American food and foodways. A few are relatively new, but most have stood the test of time. This is the Roadfood Honor Roll.
New England (11)
New Haven, CT |
Fairfield, CT |
West Haven, CT |
Georgetown, ME |
Wells, ME |
Ipswich, MA |
Fall River, MA |
Sugar Hill, NH |
Little Compton, RI |
Bennington, VT |
Manchester, VT |
Mid-Atlantic (11)
Washington, DC |
Baltimore, MD |
Edison, NJ |
West Orange, NJ |
Atlantic City, NJ |
Williamsville, NY |
New York, NY |
Rochester, NY |
West Seneca, NY |
Philadelphia, PA |
Bala Cynwyd, PA |
Mid-South (13)
Henderson, KY |
Waverly, KY |
Cleveland, NC |
Lexington, NC |
Ayden, NC |
Nashville, TN |
Memphis, TN |
Nashville, TN |
Bluff City, TN |
Mappsville, VA |
Warrenton, VA |
New Market, VA |