Magdalena Solé - Cuba Hasta Siempre

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CUBA HASTA SIEMPRE

CUBA HASTA SIEMPREPhotographs and Poetry Magdalena Sol | Foreword by Pico IyerUniversity Press of Mississippi / Jackson

The University Press of Mississippi is the scholarly publishing agency of the Mississippi Institutions of Higher Learning: Alcorn State University, Delta State University, Jackson State University, Mississippi State University, Mississippi University for Women, Mississippi Valley State University, University of Mississippi, and University of Southern Mississippi.www.upress.state.ms.usThe University Press of Mississippi is a member of the Association of University Presses.Copyright 2020 by University Press of MississippiPhotographs copyright 2020 by Magdalena Sol: Dance School, Holguin, 2016All rights reservedManufactured in ChinaFirst printing 2020Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataNames: Sol, Magdalena, photographer. | Iyer, Pico, writer of forewordTitle: Cuba hasta siempre / Photographs, Magdalena Sol ; Foreword, Pico IyerDescription: Jackson : University Press of Mississippi, [2020]Identifiers: LCCN 2019032267 (print) | LCCN 2019032268 (ebook) | ISBN 9781496827784 (hardcover) | ISBN 9781496827791 (epub) | ISBN 9781496827807 (epub) | ISBN 9781496827814 (pdf) | ISBN 9781496827777 (pdf)Subjects: LCSH: CubaPictorial works. | CubaDescription and travelPictorial works. | CubaSocial life and customsPictorial works.Classification: LCC F1765.3 .S63 2020 (print) | LCC F1765.3 (ebook) | DDC 972.910022/2dc23LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019032267LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019032268British Library Cataloging-in-Publication Data available

CONTENTSPico IyerMagdalena Sol

BEAUTY AMONG THE FRAYING WALLSPico IyerI ts another balmy night in HavanaApril 1987and Im walking through the almost pitch-black streets of Vedado, a cutting-edge suburb once upon a time. There are few lights in front of the rambling mansions and their overgrown gardens, and though there are long lines around the Coppelia ice-cream parlor in the central park, theres a good chance theres no ice cream and a forty-minute wait will be rewarded with a smile and a shrug: Disculpame, compaero, no hay! From somewhere in the darkness I can hear a guitar being strummed, as lovers drift off into the shadows and I begin to catch the sound of quickened breath, gasps, half-suppressed giggles.A tall, black-skinned boy ambles towards me in the street and invites me to call him Walter. Theres a party. Im thirty, just released from my job as a writer on world affairs for Timemagazine in New York; nothing sounds more enticing. We get into a shuddering car from the Eisenhower years and bump between the palatial houses, long collapsing, in the even fancier suburb of Miramar.Still there are few lights, but theres no doubting the buoyancy, the vivacity spicing the air and giving it a charge. Music comes from here and there; Walter proves the last word in subversive charm. When we arrive at the party, it seems to consist of nothing but a shockingly bare room and a visiting Dane. I make my excuses, and then my slow way back through the ghosted streets, flashes of sea in the distance and always a sense of possibility, of romance, in the warm night Ive never known in any other city.That was my first trip to Cuba, and already, as Magdalena Sol writes in her haunting and poetic introduction, I was lost for life. I returned to California and, next morning, booked my next trip to Havana, for twelve weeks on: the intense heat of midsummer, Fidel booming before thousands in the rain and then the twenty-eighth anniversary of the Revolution taking the form of a party again, cool kids jiving in the tropical night. Then I went back, again and again, for the next twenty-five years, in part because I could never pretend I could get to the bottom of this confounding place where beauty and dilapidation were walking hand-in hand, an ironic smile always playing about their lips.So much of what I love in Cuba, and what I have never found in any place over almost a half-century of travel, looks back at me and winks and pleads, defying all words in Magdalenas soulful photographs. Always, I notice, there are at least two elements in every image, and they speak for qualities we dont always know how to put together. Decay and fierce pride. Effervescence against peeling walls.

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