W. Bruhn - A Pictorial History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century: With Over 1900 Illustrated Costumes, Including 1000 in Full Colour (Dover Fashion and Costumes)
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- Book:A Pictorial History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century: With Over 1900 Illustrated Costumes, Including 1000 in Full Colour (Dover Fashion and Costumes)
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ANTIQUITY
- King of the 5th Dynasty wearing a loin-cloth of pleated gold material, with a lions tail fixed at the back. (Privilege of the king, probably of the early times when the chiefs of the African primitive race ornamented themselves with such trophies). In front of the loin-cloth a stiff triangular piece of linen, and over it the regal ornaments. The head is covered with the striped head-cloth with the sacred uraeus (cf. 10 side view). Further royal insignia: The artificial medium-sized beard and the two types of sceptre, the crook and the whip (probably originally a symbol of agriculture and stock-rearing).
- Egyptian of rank. His high rank is shown by the ceremonial loin-cloth (partly made of golden material like the kings) and by the stick and club (commanders baton). He wears a short curled wig.
- Egyptian woman, grinding grain with an ancient hand-mill. The tunic indicates a better class woman; the slave women usually wear hardly any clothes. The hair is tied up by bands.
- Woman of rank dressed in a tunic; the original braces for keeping up the garment are widened here and cover the breasts, thus forming a V-neck. The material is light and diaphanous. In addition a linen mantle, coloured collar embroidered with glass beads. Wrist and ankle bracelets. Over the parted hair a wig with a decorated metal fillet or diadem.
- Woman returning from the market in a checked tunic with wide white braces. Ornamental collar, bracelets, large black kerchief (obviously not a wig).
- 6. Official or man of rank with a stick. Simple loin-cloth in the style of the Old Kingdom. The shaven head is not covered by a cap or wig, which is necessary in the hot sun.
- 7. Official (Middle Kingdom) with a lengthened loin-cloth, neck decoration, wig and short beard as a sign of rank. The beard, not favoured by the Egyptians, is shaved off. But on ceremonial occasions in order to enhance the dignity of the wearer, an artificial beard is fixed by means of ribbons to the ears. The longest beard was worn by the king.
- 8. Egyptian of the 5th Dynasty with the linen triangle in front of the loin-cloth (cf. 1). Collar with pendant. Wig.
- 9. Woman of the Middle Kingdom. Patterned tunic (similar to 5). Wig, fan.
- 10-16. New Kingdom from 1600 B.C.
- 10. King of the New Kingdom acting as sacrificial priest.
- 11. Man of rank in a shirt-like garment with two loin-cloths, collar and wig with a feather stuck into it and carrying a stick with an animals head (originally a kings sceptre, later on carried by high officials and ordinary people).
- 12. Man with shirt-like garment, but only one loin-cloth visible; collar; band tied round the wig.
- 13. Mourner from a funeral procession.
- 14. Woman wearing a mantle. The greater variety in garments corresponds to that of the men. In the New Kingdom, fashion requires a tight fitting garment, exposing one shoulder, and a wide mantle, carried across the front and draped over one shoulder. Both are often quite diaphanous allowing the shape of the body to be seen.
- 15. Man of rank in a shirt-like garment with two sleeves and a very small loin-cloth on top. Neck ornamentation and wig.
- 16. Lower official or kings servant. Neck decoration, bracelets and loin-cloth with a heart-shaped piece of material in front. On the head a perfume container which slowly drips.
- High Official with the white ostrich feather fan, a high decoration of honour, which gradually became the emblem of rank, for instance for Kings Favourite and other titles of honour. Princes and the highest officials or army commanders were given the feather fan. Collar (round collar), wig and bast sandals. The loin-cloth is wrapped over the long tunic.
- Scribe; a vocation found frequently in ancient Egypt. The reed pen is stuck into the wig behind the ear. He carries the paint box with red and black under his arm, and the papyrus scroll in his hand. The boxes on the floor with protecting bags are for the rolled-up papyri.
- Temple attendant carrying a vessel with sacrificial liquid.
- High Priest from Heliopolis with a leopards skin (decorated with silver stars). Priests garments were not sewn. The hair is shorn. He wears a wig which is seldom worn by priests.
- Sacrificial priest with incense burner. Loin-cloth, leopard skin, white band on upper part of body. Straw sandals.
- 6 and 10. Royal princes in war apparel, distinguished by a long plaited lock on the side of their heads. This lock, originally only worn by children, was later, in a conventionalized form, a prerogative of princes. The armour consists of leather covered with metal pieces. No. 10 has leather strips wound spirally round the body. He has also a feather fan.
- 7. Companion of the Prince, with his masters bow and shield, covered with skin.
- 8. The King with the characteristic regal girdle decoration hanging down in front (cf. Plate I, 1). The Pharaoh wears the peculiar royal helmet (cheperesh) with the uraeus; the sacred vulture who protects the king in war is embroidered on the armoured jacket as though enfolding him with its wings.
- 9. The Kings bow-bearer dressed in a tight protective quilted garment covered with small bronze plates. On his head a quilted cap.
- 11 and 12. Nubian archers.
- 13-15. Soldiers with ordinary kerchief and heart-shaped leather front piece over the loin-cloth or (14 and 15) a quilted outer tunic carrying sickle-shaped knives, clubs or battle-axe. Shields with eye-holes.
- The King. The hood with the uraeus falls down on both sides in two pleated strips and is gathered on his back like a plait. He wears an artificial beard as a sign of a king, a diaphanous garment over the loin-cloth (invisible), girdle decoration and sandals made of papyrus (cf. Plate I, 1).
- The Kings footman or runner wearing an outer garment interwoven with gold. He carries quiver and bow, stick or club by means of which the runners made way for the royal procession.
- Queen of the 19th Dynasty (14th cent. B.C.) in her hand the scourge, one of the royal insignia. On her wig the sacred vulture head-dress, usually worn by queens. She is dressed in two diaphanous garments (the new fashion for noble ladies): the light tunic and the light mantle fastened on the chest. The old tunic has been discarded. Not until the end of the 20th Dynasty is a short undergarment of thicker material worn again under tunic and mantle.
- King with a blue wig, diadem with the sacred uraeus, artificial beard, collar, girdle decorations and two sceptres or insignia: scourge and crook.
- Princess. Around the wig an ornamental band; collar, tunic, mantle, bare footed. (According to a wooden statuette in the Louvre, Paris).
- 6. King performing the sacrificial ritual and offering a golden ointment box. The king, like all officiating priests, is scantily clad, bare-footed and does not wear anything besides the two crowns, the neck decoration, the wide royal loin-cloth and girdle decoration.
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