Illustrated - The Cooks Illustrated Meat Book
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THE COOKS ILLUSTRATED
THE GAME-CHANGING GUIDE THAT TEACHES YOU
HOW TO COOK MEAT AND POULTRY WITH 425 BULLETPROOF RECIPES
THE EDITORS AT AMERICAS TEST KITCHEN
BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS
Copyright 2014 by the Editors at Americas Test Kitchen
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
AMERICAS TEST KITCHEN
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
The cooks illustrated meat book : the game-changing guide that teaches you how to cook meat and poultry with 425 bulletproof recipes / the editors of Americas Test Kitchen.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-936493-86-9
Kindle ISBN 978-1-940352-13-8
1. Cooking (Meat) I. Americas Test Kitchen (Firm)
TX749.C66 2014
641.66--dc23
2014016170
Hardcover: $40 US
Manufactured in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Distributed by Americas Test Kitchen
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Elizabeth Carduff
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Lori Galvin
ASSISTANT EDITOR: Melissa Herrick
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS: Rachel Greenhaus, Samantha Ronan
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Elizabeth Emery
DESIGN DIRECTOR: Amy Klee
ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR: Taylor Argenzio
DESIGNER: Allison Boales
ILLUSTRATION: John Burgoyne
PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: Julie Cote
PHOTOGRAPHY: Keller + Keller, Carl Tremblay
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel J. van Ackere
FOOD STYLING: Catrine Kelty, Marie Piraino
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford
SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Quirk
DIRECTOR, PROJECT MANAGEMENT: Alice Carpenter
PROJECT MANAGER: Britt Dresser
WORKFLOW AND DIGITAL ASSET MANAGER: Andrew Mannone
SENIOR COLOR AND IMAGING SPECIALIST: Lauren Pettapiece
PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALISTS: Heather Dube, Lauren Robbins
COPYEDITOR: Cheryl Redmond
PROOFREADER: Jane Tunks Demel
INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson
Pictured on Cover:
This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at Americas Test Kitchen, a very real 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cooks Illustrated magazine and Cooks Country magazine and is the Monday-through-Friday destination for more than four dozen test cooks, editors, food scientists, tasters, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the best version.
We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of preconceptions, which means that we accept no claim, no theory, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own hybrid recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). As we like to say in the test kitchen, We make the mistakes, so you dont have to.
All of this would not be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is indeed based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others dont, but there is a right way to saut, there is a best way to cook a pot roast, and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. This is our ultimate goal: to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking so that you become a better cook. It is as simple as that.
If youre curious to see what goes on behind the scenes at Americas Test Kitchen, check out our daily blog, The Feed, at AmericasTestKitchenFeed.com, which features kitchen snapshots, exclusive recipes, video tips, and much more. You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to Americas Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchen.com) or Cooks Country from Americas Test Kitchen (CooksCountryTV.com) on public television. Tune in to Americas Test Kitchen Radio (ATKradio.com) on public radio to listen to insights, tips, and techniques that illuminate the truth about real home cooking. Want to hone your cooking skills or finally learn how to bakefrom an Americas Test Kitchen test cook? Enroll in a cooking class at our online cooking school at OnlineCookingSchool.com. And find information about subscribing to Cooks Illustrated magazine at CooksIllustrated.com or Cooks Country magazine at CooksCountry.com. Both magazines are published every other month. However you choose to visit us, we welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America.
FACEBOOK.COM/AMERICASTESTKITCHEN
TWITTER.COM/TESTKITCHEN
YOUTUBE.COM/AMERICASTESTKITCHEN
INSTAGRAM.COM/TESTKITCHEN
PINTEREST.COM/TESTKITCHEN
AMERICASTESTKITCHEN.TUMBLR.COM
GOOGLE.COM/+AMERICASTESTKITCHEN
If I told you that we had just published The Cooks Illustrated Meat Book, you might be surprised. For one, havent all the meat recipes you might want (we include chicken here as well) already been published? And isnt everyone turning away from meat toward healthier food choices, including fruits and vegetables?
Well, here at Americas Test Kitchen, we dont concern ourselves with trends. In fact, we take our cues from our readers, whom we survey almost every day to find out what they want and how they want it. There is no question that meat is still an important part of almost everyones diet but home cooks are looking for new and better ways to cook it.
So with that in mind, we set out to rethink meat cookery. For extra-crisp chicken skin, we use a rub of salt and baking powder. To poach chicken breasts, we created a soy sauce brine that we also use to poach the breasts. Turkey burgers are made juicy by using dark meat and then incorporating a paste using some of the meat, gelatin, soy sauce, and baking soda. We then mix in chopped raw white mushrooms to improve texture. Thick-cut steaks start in a low oven to get their internal temperature up to 95 degrees and then we finish them with a quick searthis provides a turbo-charged aging process that increases flavor and tenderness. A third-rate cut, eye round, is transformed into a delicious roast by salting it and letting it rest for 24 hours before roasting at a low oven temperature. We then finish it in the oven after turning off the heat completely. A maple-glazed pork tenderloin is started in a skillet after being coated with cornstarch to hold the glaze and then finished in a moderate oven. And dont get us started on burgersthe best are made with meat ground in a food processor. It takes just a little extra work but they are a whole lot better.
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