Cooks Illustrated - The Cooks Illustrated Baking Book
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Copyright 2013 by the Editors at Americas Test Kitchen
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Americas Test Kitchen
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
The Cooks illustrated baking book : baking demystified : 450 recipes from Americas most trusted food magazine / the editors of Americas Test Kitchen.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-936493-58-6
EPub ISBN: 978-1-936493-78-4
1. Baking. 2. Cooking, American. I. Americas test kitchen (Television program)
II. Cooks illustrated.
TX765.C634 2013
641.5973--dc23
2013016858
Hardcover: $40 US
Manufactured in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Distributed by Americas Test Kitchen
17 STATION STREET, BROOKLINE, MA 02445
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Elizabeth Carduff
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Lori Galvin
ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Alyssa King
DESIGN DIRECTOR: Amy Klee
ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR: Beverly Hsu
DESIGNER: Taylor Argenzio
ILLUSTRATION: John Burgoyne
PHOTOGRAPHY: Carl Tremblay and Keller + Keller
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel J. van Ackere
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford
SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Quirk
SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER: Alice Carpenter
PRODUCTION AND TRAFFIC COORDINATOR: Brittany Allen
WORKFLOW AND DIGITAL ASSET MANAGER: Andrew Mannone
SENIOR COLOR AND IMAGING SPECIALIST: Lauren Pettapiece
PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALISTS: Heather Dube, Lauren Robbins
COPYEDITOR: Cheryl Redmond
PROOFREADER: Debra Hudak
INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson
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This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at Americas Test Kitchen, a very real 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cooks Illustrated magazine and Cooks Country magazine and is the Monday-through-Friday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, food scientists, tasters, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the best version.
We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of conviction, which means that we accept no claim, no theory, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own hybrid recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). As we like to say in the test kitchen, We make the mistakes, so you dont have to.
All of this would not be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is indeed based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others dont, but there is a right way to saut, there is a best way to cook a pot roast, and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. This is our ultimate goal: to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking so that you become a better cook. It is as simple as that.
You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to Americas Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchenTV.com) or Cooks Country from Americas Test Kitchen (CooksCountryTV.com) on public television, or by subscribing to Cooks Illustrated magazine (CooksIllustrated.com) or Cooks Country magazine (CooksCountry.com). We welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America.
Baking, unlike the rest of cooking, is like the Apollo missions. Everything has to be thought through in advance since it is nearly impossible to make mid-course corrections. If you have used the wrong amount of leavener, the wrong flour, or perhaps the wrong amount of fat or liquid, all you can do is pray once the cakes go into the oven. This is, of course, not true of stir-fries, stews, soups, or almost any other stovetop supper; adjustments can be made throughout.
As with space exploration, developing baking recipes is not a hit-or-miss process, nor is it a study in improvisationit requires a well-staffed test kitchen and lots of time. What is the best way to thicken a peach pie to get clean slices that are not heavy with flavor-dulling thickener? What is the best way to bake up chewy chocolate chip cookies with crisp edges? How do you make a pie dough that is both easy to roll and flaky and tender? What about a pizza dough that is easy to roll out and is also thin and crisp? And how do you know when a cake or loaf of bread is done?
Like any well-trained engineer, our test cooks not only test variations on recipes, but also observe results and ask questions. Whats the best way to beat egg whites for an angel food cake? Why does pizza dough retract when stretched? How can one incorporate more bananas into banana bread without ruining its texture? Why do the blueberries in blueberry Bundt cake always sink to the bottom during baking and add little fruit flavor? What causes some cookies to turn out crispy and others to turn out cakey or chewy? What difference does it make in a recipe to melt butter rather than cream it? Like all scientists, we are often wrong but we have the luxury of time, since we spend weeks and weeks developing most of our recipes so virtually every theory can be tested.
So what you are now holding in your hand is not just a cookbook, its a scientific journey through the world of baking. Its not a hodgepodge of our favorite recipes; it reflects over 20 years of scientific testing and tasting to find the best methods and the best recipes. You can find 500 free recipes for New York cheesecake or sugar cookies online; the question is, which of them will actually work? (The answer is, not many.) When it comes to baking, you need the experience and knowledge of a test kitchen at your side, providing you with all of the answers to your questions so that each and every recipe will come out perfectly, the first time and every time.
Its true that some things in the kitchen are self-evident. You hardly need a cookbook to tell you to preheat the oven properly (although some cooks do overlook this simple step) or set out all of your baking ingredients before starting. That reminds me of the Vermont story of Frank Skidmore, who died with a large account in the local savings bank; his heirs contested his will in court. The slick city lawyer for the plaintiffs asked a neighbor whether he had ever heard the deceased talking to himself when he was alone. The Vermonter replied, Come to think of it, I was never with Mr. Skidmore when he was alone! So there!
Hopefully, we dont take too much time stating the obvious. Instead, we hope that this volume gives you a detailed, highly useful tour of the world of home baking, answering your questions and helping you to turn out delicious baked goods. That way, you wont end up talking to yourself about why a cake or cookie recipe failed!
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