Country Magazine - Great American Road Trips: Hit the Road and Explore Our Nations Beautiful Scenic Byways

The Resurrection River curves below Mount Benson.

STORY BY JANINE NIEBRUGGE

PHOTOS BY RON NIEBRUGGE

TRAVEL 127 UNFORGETTABLE MILES THROUGH ONE OF NORTH AMERICAS MOST PRISTINE WILDERNESSES.

LENGTH

127 miles

FUN FACT

The five massive glaciers in Portage Valley on Turnagain Arm are remnants of Portage Glacier, which once covered the valleys entire 14-mile length.

SIDE TRIP

Two miles north of Seward, turn west onto a gravel road that parallels the Resurrection River for 9 miles. The road ends at the Exit Glacier Ranger Station in Kenai Fjords National Park.

A 3-mile-long river of ice flowing from massive Harding Icefield, Exit Glacier looms like a blue monolith. Visitors can approach the glaciers base by walking about a half-mile on an easy trail from the ranger station. A longer, more strenuous trail leads hikers up the flank of the glacier to a spot overlooking the Harding Icefield.

The mantle of ice measures an imposing 35 miles by 20 miles, and buried within its frigid bulk are all but the tallest peaks to be found in the Kenai Mountains.

DESIGNATED BOTH A National Forest Scenic Byway and an All-American Road, the Seward Highway takes you through 127 miles of remote wild beauty.

Also known as Alaska Route 9, the highway stretches from Anchorage to the charming coastal community of Seward, the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park.

The road climbs over mountain passes where youre surrounded by jaw-dropping views of jagged peaks, rainforests, crystal lakes and the Pacific Ocean.

On any given day, youre likely to see Dall sheep, whales, waterfowl, moose and bears. What you wont see are billboards or many other signs of civilization.

The highway is a photographers dream, with easy access to dramatic scenery. While its not hard to complete the drive in a few hours, give yourself most of a day, or even two, to explore this stunning road.

To guide you along on your journey, here are a few of the highlights that my husband, Ron, and I enjoy.

As you start out, Potter Marsh, on the outskirts of Anchorage, marks the end of city views and the beginning of wilderness. Its truly a birders paradise, with views of a rich variety of waterfowl and other birds, including northern pintails, Canada geese, red-necked phalaropes, canvasback ducks, horned and red-necked grebes, and northern harriers. Gulls, arctic terns and yellowlegs can be spotted during spring and fall migration. This is also a good place to see spawning salmon and an occasional moose.

As you continue down the highway, wind your way along the Turnagain Arm, with scenic views of Chugach State Park. Turnagain Arm offers some of the worlds largest bore tides, attracting surfers, paddleboarders and kite boarders.

A bull moose crosses the road in Chugach National Forest.

Ron and I like to stop at Beluga Point or Bird Point to watch for beluga whales and scour the mountainsides along the road for Dall sheep.

Milepost 79 is the turnoff for the skiing community of Girdwood, a quaint mountain town thats worth exploring. If you have time, take a hike on the Winner Creek Trail. Winner Creek is a beautiful, clear-running stream flowing through the rainforest. A little farther up, the creek drops into a steep, narrow, rocky gorge. Youll want to stop and enjoy the view.

This milepost is also your last opportunity for gas and any other supplies you might need until you reach Seward.

As you continue down Turnagain Arm, check out Portage Valley, a 14-mile isthmus that connects the Kenai Peninsula to the mainland.