Jennifer Lapidus - Southern ground : reclaiming flavor through stone-milled flour

Acknowledgments

To begin, Id like to thank my literary agent, Laura Nolan, who recognized the worth of this story and ensured that my voice could be heard. To my professors at Gouchers MFA ProgramJacob Levenson, Leslie Rubinowski, Laura Wexler and Diana Hume George, as well as Patsy Simmswho pushed me to dig deep, show not tell, cut, cut, cut, and DMSU (dont make s**t up). To the stellar team of women at Ten Speed Press, whom Ive had the honor to work withDervla Kelly, Emma Rudolph, Lizzie Allen, and Ivy McFadden. Thank you for your amazing feedback, edits, and design.

To the farmersthank you for taking the chance on this little mill. To the bakersthank you for bringing our flour into your bakeries and for the resulting baked goods you bring to your communities; and for those of you represented in this book, thank you for your time and inspiring recipes. To Rinne Allen, for your stunning photography. Such a treat to get to travel around the South with you. And yes, you did warn me about this whole book writing endeavor and yes, you were completely on point. To Cathy Cleary and Lydia Stamm for the many, many bake tests and feedback. To my team at Carolina Ground: Scott Starling, Lydia Stamm, Lindsey Giglio, and Dante Campanaro, who kept the stones turning while I was distracted by the writing of this book. Thank you to Sharon Burns-Leader, Dr. Erin McKenney, Amy Halloran, Thor Oechsner, Glenn Roberts, Melissa Martin, Graison Gill, Mark Fowler, Tass Jansen, Roger Jansen, Dr. David Marshall, and Dr. Stephen Jones, all of whom contributed in some way to this book. And my foundation: my family. I won the lottery with my mom and dad, forever believing in us girls. To my sister, Liz, for always cheering me on. To my daughter Hannah, for reminding me to continuously broaden my perspective. To Emma, Siena, and Tim, thank you for your love and acceptance, even through the writing of this book. And to my husband and best friend, Scott Unfried. Forever grateful for your patience, your love, and your editing skills.

JENNIFER LAPIDUS is the founder and principal of Carolina Ground flour mill in Asheville, North Carolina. She launched Natural Bridge Bakery in 1994, where she milled her flours in-house and baked her naturally leavened breads in a wood-fired brick oven. Her bakery was the first of its kind in western North Carolina and was featured in Peter Reinharts Whole Grain Breads. Jennifer has appeared on The Splendid Table podcast and in the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Bon Apptit, Food & Wine, Saveur, Taste of the South, and numerous other local publications. Jennifer sits on the board of Carolina Farm Stewardship Association and is co-organizer of the Asheville Bread Festival.

Bakers Percentage Index

WHEAT

flemish desem

leaven

flour 100

water 90

starter 25

dough

flour 100

water 95

leaven 20

sea salt 2.25

walnut desem

leaven

flour 100

water 95

starter 25

dough

flour 100

water 100

leaven 20

sea salt 2.25

walnuts 26

piedmont loaf

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 25

dough

flour, wwb 70

flour, 75b 30

water 85

leaven 20

sea salt 2

whole-wheat flax bread

leaven

flour 100

water 66

starter 8

flax soaker

flax 100

water 146

dough

flour, wwb 70

flour, 75b 30

water 61

leaven 16

flax soaker 46

sunflower seeds 9

sea salt 2.35

nc sourdough + nc miche

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour 100

water 72

leaven 48

sea salt 3.25

hippy desem

leaven

flour 100

water 70

starter 35

dough

flour, 85b 80

flour, wwb 20

water 70

leaven 16

honey 5

sea salt 2.2

pumpkin seeds 8

sunflower seeds 8

flax seeds 3

sesame seeds 3

poppy seeds 3

ciabatta sandwich rolls

biga

flour 100

water 67

yeast 0.6

dough

flour, 85b 90

flour, wwb 10

water 83

yeast 2.8

biga 44

sea salt 2.1

hemp crisp breads

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour, 85b 80

flour, wwb 20

water 50

hemp hearts 13

sea salt 2.5

high-extraction focaccia

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour 100

water 90

olive oil 5

leaven 20

sea salt 2.5

porridge bread

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 17

dough

flour, 75b 80

flour, wwb 20

water 80

leaven 20

porridge 75

soaker 25

sunflower seeds 12.5

sea salt 2.5

piedmont miche

ryeleaven

flour 100

water 95

starter 4

wheat leaven

flour 100

water 66

starter 8

dough

flour, wwb 60

flour, 75b 40

water 67

leaven rye 91

leaven wheat 300

salt 6

miche baby

rye leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 25

wheat leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 25

dough

flour, 75b 80

flour, whole rye 10

flour, whole spelt 10

water 85

leaven rye 14

leaven wheat 14

sea salt 2

rustic peasant bread

leaven

cracked rye 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour 100

scald 71

water 80

leaven 20

sea salt 2.25

southeast sourdough

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour, 75b 75

flour, white wheat 20

flour, whole rye 5

water 85

leaven 12

sea salt 2.5

all stone-ground pizza dough

leaven

flour, white wheat 100

water 100

starter 20

dough

flour, 75b 95

flour, white wheat 5

water 66

leaven 17

sea salt 3

gregarios cg pizza dough

leaven

flour, Khorasan/Kamut 100

water 100

leaven 20

dough

flour, 75b 70

flour, sifted spelt 19

flour, Khorasan/Kamut 11

water 75

leaven 7

sea salt 2.25

RYE

danish rye

leaven

flour 100

water 150

leaven 75

dough

flour 100

water 50

leaven 100

sorghum 5

salt 5

dark rye w/CARAWay, fennel + cardamom

leaven

flour 100

water 95

starter 8

dough

flour, whole rye 43

flour, 75b 57

water 75

leaven 82

sea salt 2.9

bread spice .5

100% sourdough coffee can rye

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 25

dough

flour, wrye 25

flour, lrye 75

water 75

leaven 60

malt 5

sea salt 2.1

caraway 1.1

anise .6

fennel .6

seeded rye

leaven

flour 100

water 100

starter 20

soaker

rye chops 100

pumpkin seeds 20

sunflower seeds 40

sesame seeds 40

nut milk 80

coffee 40

sorghum syrup 10

dough

flour, wwb 50

flour, rye 25

flour, 75b 25

water 106

leaven 65

soaker 165

sea salt 3

rugbrd

leaven

flour, rye 100

water 100

starter 25

soaker

cracked rye 100

water 158

dough

flour, wwb 73

flour, rye 27

water 88

leaven 58

soaker 211

buttermilk 30

sunflower seeds 17