FASHIONING THE MODERN MIDDLE EAST
Dress cultures
Series Editors: Reina Lewis & Elizabeth Wilson
Advisory Board: Christopher Breward, Hazel Clark, Joanne Entwistle, Caroline Evans, Susan Kaiser, Angela McRobbie, Hiroshi Narumi, Peter McNeil, zlem Sandikci, Simona Segre Reinach
Dress Cultures aims to foster innovative theoretical and methodological frameworks to understand how and why we dress, exploring the connections between clothing, commerce and creativity in global contexts.
Published:
Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion
edited by Anneke Smelik
Dressing for Austerity: Aspiration, Leisure and Fashion in Post War Britain
by Geraldine Biddle-Perry
Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body
by Francesca Granata
Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 17751925
edited by Justine De Young
Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape
edited by Wessie Ling and Simona Segre Reinach
Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith
edited by Reina Lewis
Niche Fashion Magazines: Changing the Shape of Fashion
by Ane Lynge-Jorlen
Styling South Asian Youth Cultures: Fashion, Media and Society
edited by Lipi Begum, Rohit K. Dasgupta and Reina Lewis
Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists
edited by Agns Rocamora and Anneke Smelik
Veiling in Fashion: Space and the Hijab in Minority Communities
by Anna-Mari Almila
Wearing the Cheongsam: Dress and Culture in a Chinese Diaspora
by Cheryl Sim
Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender in the Twenty-First Century
by Rachel Lifter
Revisiting the Gaze: The Fashioned Body and the Politics of Looking
edited by Morna Laing and Jacki Willson
Reading Marie al-Khazens Photographs: Gender, Photography, Mandate Lebanon
by Yasmine Nachabe Taan
Wearing the Niqab: Muslim Women in the UK and the US
by Anna Piela
Fashioning the Modern Middle East: Gender, Body, and Nation
edited by Reina Lewis and Yasmine Nachabe Taan
Reina Lewis:
Elizabeth Wilson:
FASHIONING THE MODERN MIDDLE EAST
GENDER, BODY, AND NATION
Edited by
Reina Lewis and Yasmine Nachabe Taan
CONTENTS
Reina Lewis and Yasmine Nachabe Taan
Nancy Micklewright
Eve M. Troutt Powell
Reina Lewis
Mary Roberts
Kirsten Scheid
Wilson Chacko Jacob
Yasmine Nachabe Taan
Afsaneh Najmabadi
Wilson Chacko Jacob is Professor of History at Concordia University in Montral, Canada. In addition to several articles, he is the author of two historical monographs. His first book, Working Out Egypt: Effendi Masculinity and Subject Formation in Colonial Modernity, 18701940 (2011), examines the global production of a regime of gender and sexuality. His second book, For God or Empire: Sayyid Fadl and the Indian Ocean World (2019), explores the global transformation of sovereignty through the lens of biography and through the recuperation of connected histories of the Middle East and South Asia.
Reina Lewis is Centenary Professor of Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK. An authority on the connections between religious cultures and fashion cultures, Reina is a frequent media commentator on modest and Muslim fashion. Her books include Muslim Fashion: Contemporary Style Cultures (2015); Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith (edited 2013); Rethinking Orientalism: Women, Travel and the Ottoman Harem (2004). Reina was consulting curator on the exhibition Contemporary Muslim Fashions for the Fine Art Museums of San Francisco in 2018touring Museum Angewandte Kunst, Frankfurt, 2019; Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, New York, 2020.
Nancy Micklewright is currently an Andrew W. Mellon research fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and a research associate at the Smithsonian, USA. Until 2019 she was Head of Public and Scholarly Engagement at the Freer and Sackler Galleries, Smithsonian. She is the author of A Victorian Traveler in the Middle East: The Photography and Travel Writing of Annie Lady Brassey (2003) and the editor, with Reina Lewis, of Gender, Modernity and Liberty: Middle Eastern and Western Womens Writings; A Critical Sourcebook (2006), as well as numerous articles. Her latest book project is Dressing for the Camera: Fashion and Photography in the late Ottoman Empire.
Yasmine Nachabe Taan is Associate Professor of art and design history and theory at the Lebanese American University. She has published a number of books in collaboration with Khatt Books, Amsterdam, with the aim to examine the development of Arab visual culture. Her recent curatorial work is Traces of Drawings (2019), an exhibition of more than a hundred drawings, studies, and sketches by Lebanese artists from the late nineteenth century to the mid-1990s at the NABU Museum. She is the author of ReadingMarie al-Khazens Photographs: Gender, Photography, Mandate Lebanon (Bloomsbury, 2020).
Afsaneh Najmabadi is Francis Lee Higginson Professor of History and of Studies of Women, Gender, and Sexuality at Harvard University, USA. Her book, Women with Mustaches and Men without Beards: Gender and Sexual Anxieties of Iranian Modernity (2005), received the 2005 Joan Kelly Memorial Prize from the American Historical Association. Her latest book, Professing Selves: Transsexuality and Same-Sex Desire in Contemporary Iran (2014) received the 2014 Joan Kelly prize from the American Historical Association for best book in womens history and feminist theory, and was a co-winner of the 2015 John Boswell prize, LGBT History, American Historical Association.
Mary Roberts is Professor of Art History, University of Sydney, Australia. Her scholarship addresses transcultural exchange between Europe and the Near East in the modern period, Ottoman visual culture, European art, debates about global histories of art, gender, orientalism, and material culture. Her books include Intimate Outsiders: The Harem in Ottoman and Orientalist Art and Travel Literature, (2007) and Istanbul Exchanges: Ottomans, Orientalists and Nineteenth-Century Visual Culture (2015, awarded 2016 AAANZ Best Book Prize). She has co-edited four books and been a Getty Scholar, YCBA, Clark Oakley, and CASVA senior fellow. Her forthcoming book is The Threshold: Orientalist Interiors, Islamic art and the aesthetics of Global Modernities.
Kirsten Scheid is Associate Professor of Anthropology at the American University of Beirut. She specializes in the anthropology of art and materiality, with a regional focus on Arab societies. She has published in the International Journal of Middle East Studies, Museum Anthropology, Anthropology Now, and ARTMargins. She co-curated The Arab Nude: The Artist as Awakener (Beirut 2016) and Jerusalem Actual and Possible: the 9th Edition of the Jerusalem Show (Jerusalem 2018). Scheids research has been supported by the National Endowment for the Humanities, The Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin, the EHESS, and the Palestinian American Research Center. She has been a Clark Oakley Humanities Fellow (20192020).
