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Medieval
Clothing and Textiles

Volume 10

The usual wide range of approaches to garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives. Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an examination of life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the landmark Medieval English Embroidery .

This series is an excellent forum for new research around the world in medieval textiles and dress and the papers merit wider reading. MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY, vol. 57, 2013.

Medieval
Clothing and Textiles

ISSN 1744-5787

General Editors

Robin Netherton	St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Gale R. Owen-Crocker	University of Manchester, England
Editorial Board
John Hines	Cardiff University, Wales
Christine Meek	Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland
John H. Munro	University of Toronto, Ontario, Canada
M. A. Nordtorp-Madson	University of St. Thomas, Minnesota, USA
Frances Pritchard	Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester, England
Lucia Sinisi	University of Bari, Italy
Eva Andersson Strand	Centre for Textile Research, Copenhagen, Denmark
Monica L. Wright	University of Louisiana at Lafayette, USA

Contents

Christopher J. Monk

Lisa Monnas

Rebecca Woodward Wendelken

Maureen C. Miller

Christine Meek

Valija Evalds

Michelle L. Beer

Elizabeth Coatsworth

Illustrations

Textiles in Anglo-Saxon Old Testament Art

Medieval Colour Terms

Vestments of Castel SantElia

Headdresses of St. Frideswides

Tables

Medieval Colour Terms

Clothing Distrained for Debt

Contributors

ROBIN NETHERTON (Editor) is a costume historian specializing in Western European clothing of the Middle Ages and its interpretation by artists and historians. Since 1982, she has given lectures and workshops on practical aspects of medieval dress and on costume as an approach to social history, art history, and literature. A journalist by training, she also works as a professional editor.

GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER (Editor) is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies. Her recent publications include The Lexis of Cloth and Clothing in Britain ca. 7001450, a database available at http://lexisproject.arts.manchester.ac.uk, and the Encyclopedia of Dress and Textiles in the British Isles c. 4501450 (with Elizabeth Coatsworth and Maria Hayward, 2012).

is to receive her doctorate in history in May 2014 from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Her thesis, titled Practices and Performances of Queenship: Catherine of Aragon and Margaret Tudor, 15031533, focuses on the material resources and public enactment of premodern queenship in Europe, as demonstrated through wealth, hospitality, patronage, piety, and material culture, particularly wardrobe.

is Honorary Research Fellow in the Manchester Institute for Research and Innovation in Art and Design (MIRIAD) at Manchester Metropolitan University. She is author of the Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture , vol. 8, Western Yorkshire (2008), co-author of The Art of the Anglo-Saxon Goldsmith (with Michael Pinder, 2002) and Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 4501100: An Annotated Bibliography (with Gale R. Owen-Crocker, 2007), and co-editor of the Encyclopedia of Dress and Textiles in the British Isles c. 4501450 (with Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Maria Hayward, 2012).

is Assistant Professor of Art History at Quinnipiac University in Hamden, Connecticut. Her research interests include monastic architecture and the history of dress from a range of periods. She is currently working on a study of the morphology and symbolic use of womens aprons.

retired in 2007 from her post as Associate Professor in the Department of History, Trinity College, Dublin. Her research focuses on the political, social, and economic history of the Tuscan commune of Lucca, on which she has written two books and numerous articles. The article in this volume is part of a study of the Lucchese economy based on the records of the Court of Merchants.

is Professor of History at the University of California, Berkeley. She is author of two award-winning monographs on medieval Italy: The Formation of a Medieval Church: Ecclesiastical Change in Verona, 9501150 (1993) and The Bishops Palace: Architecture and Authority in Medieval Italy (2000). Her newest book is Clothing the Clergy: Virtue and Power in Medieval Europe, c. 8001200 (2014).

lectures on medieval art and literature at the University of Manchester. His research specialties include narrative art of the Middle Ages and sex and sexuality in Anglo-Saxon England. Current projects include an interdisciplinary book titled Sex and the Old Testament in Anglo-Saxon England and a study of the Bible Historie , a thirteenth-century French picture book of the Old Testament located in the John Rylands Library.

has researched and written extensively on topics related to Italian silks in the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries. She is currently preparing articles on cloth of gold and opus anglicanum embroidery, as well as a chapter on European silk consumption during the Renaissance for a forthcoming book on silk in the premodern world edited by Luca Mol and Dagmar Schfer.

is the Thomas McLean Professor of History at Methodist University, Fayetteville, North Carolina. Her research centers on the transfer of textile and ceramic technologies in Eurasia. Current topics include the Greek production of fabric from wild silk moth cocoons in the late Roman Republic and early Empire, and the cultural transfer of motifs from ceramics to textiles in the Middle East and Inner Asia.

Preface

This volume celebrates the tenth year of Medieval Clothing and Textiles with the interdisciplinary range of approaches that this series has always emphasized. The articles in this volume examine not only the obvious roles of garments and fabricsto provide warmth, decency, and comfortbut also their social and artistic significance in the medieval and early modern periods.

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