Caroline Webb - Visitors to Verona : lovers, gentlemen and adventurers

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Caroline Webb graduated in History from the University of London and studied Italian and Art History in Cambridge and Verona. She has worked as a historical researcher and teacher and is co-author of The Earl and His Butler in Constantinople: The Secret Diary of an English Servant among the Ottomans (I.B.Tauris, 2008).

Visitors to Verona is a rich compendium of travellers impressions of Verona in the eighteenth and nineteenth century. It is lively, amusing and extremely instructive as to the checkered history of the city (for example, its conditions under French and Austrian occupation), thus reminding us of how much Verona has endured. (The twentieth century was to be no less dramatic.) From Shakespeare to Napoleon, from Dickens to James and Ruskin the characters and comments in this book are endlessly fascinating. After reading it we very much want to return to Verona with renewed interest and knowledge. Caroline Webb has done a service to the visitor who wants to appreciate more deeply all that Verona means and has meant to its citizens and guests.

Massimo Bacigalupo, Professor of American Literature at the University of Genoa

This is a richly informative cornucopia of travel accounts of one of Italys most fascinating cities.

Edward Chaney, Professor of Fine and Decorative Arts at Southampton Solent University

The author has certainly discovered a great many reactions to Verona, most of which are unfamiliar to me and many very amusing and enlightening. She writes fluently and with assurance about the historical background.

Sheila Hale, author of Verona and Titian: His Life

This book is a delight to read and provides a charming and fresh picture of Veronas daily life in past centuries. The author combines facts and travellers accounts with masterly skill in a cohesive and lively framework.

Professor Giandemetrio Marangoni, Universities of Verona & Lugano

Visitors to Verona brings together a fascinating collection of writings, offering all kinds of insights into the national characters of both the Italians and the British, how they changed over centuries of travel and tourism and how each reacted to the other, whether with prejudice or admiration, or both. Its an intriguing slice of history and rich food for thought. Those who want to go that way will find Brexit in the making.

Tim Parks, author of Italian Neighbours and A Season with Verona

VISITORS TO VERONA

Lovers, Gentlemen and Adventurers

CAROLINE WEBB

Published in 2017

by I.B.Tauris & Co. Ltd

London New York

www.ibtauris.com

Copyright 2017 Caroline Webb

The right of Caroline Webb to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by the author in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Every attempt has been made to gain permission for the use of the images in this book. Any omissions will be rectified in future editions.

References to websites were correct at the time of writing.

ISBN: 978 1 78453 647 3

eISBN: 978 1 78672 080 1

ePDF: 978 1 78673 080 0

A full CIP record for this book is available from the British Library

A full CIP record is available from the Library of Congress

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: available

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLATES

Illustrations

:	Map of Verona
:	Map showing places of entry of visitors from the north into Italy

Plates

Plate 1	Scipione Maffei (16751755), by Giuseppe Ghislandi By kind permission of Associazione Chiese Vive on behalf of the Museo Canonicale, Verona
Plate 2	James Silk Buckingham (17861855), attributed to Clara S. Lane c.1850 By kind permission of the National Portrait Gallery
Plate 3	William John Bankes, MP (17861855), by George Sandars, 1812 By kind permission of The National Trust
Plate 4	Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (17491832), by Johann Heinrich Ramberg, 17912 By kind permission of Kings College London Archives
Plate 5	John Ruskin (18191900), by George Richmond, c.1837 By kind permission of the National Portrait Gallery
Plate 6	Hester Lynch Piozzi (17411821), by an unknown Italian artist By kind permission of the National Portrait Gallery
Plate 7	The River Adige at Verona, showing floating watermills, by Bernardo Bellotto, (172080) By kind permission of The National Trust
Plate 8	Ponte Pietra, engraved by J. Godfrey, after Myles Birket Foster c.1870, published in Picturesque Europe, 1875, hand coloured
Plate 9	Castelbarco tomb and gate, next to SantAnastasia, by Robert Charles Goff, c.1900 Authors collection
Plate 10	Female costume and hairstyle in Verona, 1825, from an anonymous sketch book By kind permission of Eton College Archives
Plate 11	A rehearsal for La fida ninfa, with text by Maffei and music by Vivaldi, in the Teatro Filarmonico, 1732, pen and ink wash by the architect Francesco Galli-Bibiena and the set designer Jean-Joseph Chamant By kind permission of the Royal Collection Trust/ Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2015
Plate 12	Map of Verona by Saverio Avesan, published in Scipione Maffeis Verona illustrata, 1732
Plate 13	The Arena, Verona, engraved by W. Miller, after J.M.W. Turner, c.1833, published in Drawing and engraving by P.G. Hamerton, 1892
Plate 14	The interior of the Arena, Verona, engraved by J. Sands after W.H. Bartlett, c.1840, published in Fishers drawing room scrap book for 1845
Plate 15	Verona, with Castel San Pietro in the foreground, engraved by Mattheus Merian, from Martin Zeillers Itinerarium Italiae, 1640; edition of 1688
Plate 16	Lungadige alle Regaste di S. Zeno, engraving published in Da Persicos Descrizione di Verona e della sua provincia, 1820
Plate 17	Ponte delle Navi caduto lanno 1757, showing the flood damage that year; engraving, published in Da Persicos Descrizione di Verona e della sua provincia, 1820
Plate 18	Piazza delle Erbe, etching, published in Da Persicos Descrizione di Verona e della sua provincia, 1820
Plate 19	Porta di Borsari, drawn by Lady Henrietta Fortescue, 1821 Authors collection
Plate 20	San Zenone (San Zeno Maggiore), lithograph from The ecclesiastical architecture of Italy , by Henry Gally Knight, 1844
Plate 21	The amphitheatre at Verona, woodcut by Edward Whymper, published in Italian pictures drawn with pen and pencil by The Reverend Samuel Manning, c.1885
Plate 22

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