Contents
Page List
Guide
Cover
RECIPES AND TECHNIQUES FROM A MASTER OF THE ART OF BBQ
Horn
BARBECUE
MATT HORN
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
Matt Horn. I first came across his name in 2018 while working on a book about African American barbecue culture. I arduously searched for examples of Black men and women who were celebrated for their contributions to the time-honored tradition of cooking meats slowly over a smoky wood-fueled fire. Why? For decades, as barbecue experienced a meteoric rise in popularity, African Americans were minimized in, or left completely out of, the mounting number of print articles and television shows on the subject. Sadly, African American barbecuers werent getting much love in the media.
Matt Horn was one of the few exceptions from the constant celebration of White Guys Who Barbecue. I read the glowing online articles, and I was really impressed with his social mediathe content, the beautiful photographs, and the level of engagement. I knew this brother was someone I needed to meet and interview and someone whose food I needed to taste. I reached out to Matt via social media, and I didnt expect to hear back for some time. Dudes on the rise are usually really busy. I was thrilled when Matt wrote back and, astonishingly, told me that he knew of me. Whuh??? Anyway, we had a great and encouraging back-and-forth and shared our mutual appreciation for each other. I made plans to visit the Bay Area and find out all that I could about the West Coast Barbecue that generated long lines at Horn Barbecue in Oakland, California.
That trip never happened. The COVID-19 pandemic upended everything, and the deadline to turn in the manuscript for my book Black Smoke passed before I could resume travel and gather with others. I was so disappointed that, in the last chapter of my book, I lamented the missed opportunity to write about what I fully expected to be a next-level experience. Matt seemed like a great example of someone who was rooted in tradition and looking toward the future, and I regretted not being able to interview him for that book.
Fast-forward to June 2021. The prestigious Commonwealth Club of California invited me to do a book talk in San Francisco. It was the clubs first event since the pandemic began, and the event sold out within hours. As much as Id like to take credit for the enthusiastic response, Im pretty sure that having Matt and Nina, his wife, cater the event was a major factor. Regardless, I thought to myself, FINALLY... Ill get to taste his food! He didnt disappoint. On a blustery day, as the sun receded behind the San Francisco skyline, I joined a salivating crowd in grubbing on sliced beef brisket, pulled pork, coleslaw, collard greens, macaroni and cheese, and the surprise hit of the eveningsmoked cauliflower. For a sweet finish, the Horns served up some pillowy banana pudding.
Just when I thought this dream couldnt get any better, Matt took me aside, told me that he was writing a cookbook, and asked for a favor. Would you mind writing the foreword? I gave him the Brother Hug (those who know, know) and answered with an enthusiastic Yes! I relished the opportunity to be part of such an important book. Remarkably, Horn Barbecue is only one of a handful of African American-authored barbecue books published in the last thirty years. Let that sink in for a moment, given the mountain of barbecue books published during that same time period. Horn Barbecue also inspires. In these pages, youll read the story of a guy who had a dream, applied himself, and in a relatively short time, became very adept at a culinary craft that he loves.
Some of you are already familiar with the wondrous works of Matt Horn while others are being introduced to him for the first time. These days, people get called an artisan or a pitmaster when they really dont know what theyre doing. Matt Horn is not one of those people. After you read this beautifully photographed and accessible book, youll see why Matt is a rising star in the society of culinary artists who sublimely smoke meat. Im tempted to write that hes at the top of his craft, but that implies a finality thats misplaced in this context. Matt is more than ready to build on what the elders before him created and take barbecue in new directions. Are you ready for this soul-satisfying journey? I am!
Adrian Miller
Author of Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an
American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time and Black
Smoke: African Americans and the United States of
Barbecue and winner of a James Beard Book Award
Introduction
MY BARBECUE JOURNEY
WHAT IS LIFE IF THE LIFE YOU ARE LIVING IS UNFULFILLING?
Ever since I was a kid, I have always tried to find purpose in every little thing that I do, whether it was building a fort or playing a simple game of basketball. Am I doing what I am supposed to be doing? I would ask myself. I asked the same question when I got older and was working at various retail jobs. I never felt that I was better than my coworkers, but I did feel my time and commitment would be better suited somewhere else. Eventually, when I discovered that I could work at making barbecue, I finally found a place where I could say, Yes. I am doing what I am supposed to be doing.
But the journey to barbecue was a long one. I remember the exact moment I made the important decision to change my life. I wasnt being impulsive; the idea had consumed my mind for some time: I was going to quit my job. That beautiful fall Saturday in Los Angeles, about 8:00 p.m., was somehow the right timeafter working all day. As my shift neared its end, I approached my last customer and, like hundreds before, walked them through selecting the perfect pair of shoes. My coworkers continued their tasksoblivious to the fact that their manager was about to resignand I knew they would be confused yet understanding. As we finished our closing duties, I left my keys, lanyard, and name badge neatly on the back desk, and with mixed emotions, I made my way out of the store for the last time. As I walked to my vehicle, I turned and looked back. This career had sustained me through the years but had never provided the fulfillment my soul yearned for. I needed to follow the truth in my heart, and at that moment, I didnt know whether I would succeed, but I was willing to take the leap.
I lived in Los Angeles at the time when food truck culture was explodingand this exciting, boundary-busting cuisine, from Chef Roy Choi to the NoMad food truck, consumed me. I was an entrepreneur and dreamer, and I knew I wanted to start my own food truck business. Uninitiated into this world, I obviously needed advice, though, so I reached out to my uncle, a veteran in the restaurant industry. He quickly homed in on a crucial yet practical element of my dream with one pointed question: What are you going to cook on this truck? I realized in my excitement about the possibility of owning a truck, I had overlooked one glaring detailthe food.