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Powdered pigments in their small, stout glass jars are laid out in front of me, their true colours muted, like parched puddles waiting for the rain to bring them to life
cerulean blue
Vandyke brown
cobalt blue
oxide of chromium
perylene violet
ultramarine
sap green
Naples yellow
When Ive stirred them through with a little raw egg yolk and water, they will glow once more with, hopefully, the same intensity as the mother rock from which they were mined. These colours reflect a change in both subject matter and mood.
Im squaring up to paint a mussel shell.
Since I last wrote, we have upped sticks, and moved. My views are no longer held in check by a bank of old pine but now stretch out across folds of sheep-nuzzled fields, which lead ones gaze through their clefts and dips toward a new view: a jostling cluster of mostly whitewashed homes nestled around the edges of a tidal estuary. I cant see this stretch of water, but its enough to know its there. In my mind the thought of this move has been on the horizon for many years, though mostly as an indistinct yet hopeful dream. I never quite believed it would happen.
But these times are strange. The world is in the grip of a pandemic; just writing this sounds like the clichd opening lines for a dystopian horror film set in the future. But the truth is, there is a virus trying very hard to survive and reproduce, and every country is endeavouring to counter and stem its flow.
And although there are times when I feel incredibly fearful for my family, for my friends, for every soul standing in its path, life goes on, whether we attend to it or not.
Im dipping the tip of my brush into the small cup of egg yolk, now into the cobalt blue powder, now over to the white saucer where I gently mix this medium to create a smooth paste. A dab more water, now breath held tight I take this loaded brush over to the paper to slowly scribe the first gentle curving outline of the mussel.
I pocketed this shell while on a walk along the pebbled shoreline of a tiny little cove that seems only ever to be occupied by preening cormorants and the occasional seal.
It is worn, battle-scarred, but so well built by its creator that, judging by its size and thickness, it lived to quite an age. The life that attached itself to this mollusc is spattered and colourful, valiantly worn like some sort of Pollock fashion statement: the algae bloom of different hues and textures, the grid of teeny eggs laid by a limpet that believed this shell to be a safe ride. There are very neat holes bored into this shell driven through by opportunistic whelks, hell-bent on a free snack.
And then theres the inside the smooth, pearlescent cocoon, perfectly cupped to hold and protect the soft delicate body of the mussel inside. A little armoured haven.
It is quite beautiful.
To my eye, theres a dizzying array of treasure to be found while beach roaming, but I always seem to gather at least one mussel shell, absent-mindedly slipping it into the pocket of my coat, perfect for an idle hand to slowly trace the graceful butter-knife-sharp curve. The thumb, on its blind journey, will unfailingly catch on any tiny outcrop of micro barnacles and will find itself circling and returning to this little world. Then, without a thought, my hand will flip it prone side up, presenting a sensuous thumb slide, from the pallial line and up to the hook of the umbo. I think I could draw these shells with my eyes closed. At least in my head and my heart.
On reaching home, the contents of my pockets are usually washed and dried on a tray in the bottom of the oven. Then theyre stored in Kilner jars to be admired and dipped into, when needed.
For the last thirty years Ive been collecting such treasure, storing it in jars and popping the lids to smell the sea. And sometimes this sated my desire until my next visit. But mostly it made me ache with longing.
But now Im here, and near enough that with an onshore breeze I can smell the ocean from our bedroom window. Near enough that I can cycle there to walk and rootle along the tideline, swim even.
Outline done, its time to be brave and flood the paper with the myriad of blues that make up this tough yet elegant shell.
27 September
Turn left at egg box crossroads, then plummet past hedgerows wearing clusters of blackberries, a bristle of skeleton hogweed standing guard. Follow the narrow swoop of moss-carpeted lane to dip down to the field of harvest-ready maize. On the right the ground drops away, the road held in check by a wall of tightly stacked slate that snakes and curves with the steep field beyond. Sheep perch among its tussocks and terraces to pluck and tear at breakfast. Turn right, by the old stone roundel sporting a jaunty grass cap. Listen out for the raven couple that carve their sky above; you may catch a flash of cerulean blue as the jay hastily retreats for the cover (and larder) of his small oak tree.
I rarely remember directions, and sadly wasnt born with the inbuilt compass that many seem to have.
So, this is my way new waypoints, new sights. The new way home.
This morning we swam with sand martins.
It began with a bleary-eyed gathering of towel, costume and car keys as I ran for the back door. Id got a message from our new neighbours that the tides might be right and the weather kindly to introduce me to a new place to swim. Im still working out the tides from the bristle of apps that Ive enthusiastically downloaded to try to get my head around this part of the coast. But these two are like a walking, talking almanac, having lived here for decades. Nothing will come close to their almost visceral knowledge and feel for every inch of this part of Devon. If Im lucky enough to reach old age, perhaps I too will have honed an eye and ear for such insights.
This cove sits snug and hidden, tucked into the base of a vertiginous drop of slate. It looks wholly inaccessible, but as you draw near it becomes apparent that its an easy (if slightly precipitous) climb down, mostly made up of stone steps with an intermittent, looping, chained railing on the drop side, which lends one a sense of security, if only imagined.