Published by The History Press
Charleston, SC
www.historypress.net
Copyright 2017 by Arthur Pike and David Pike
All rights reserved
First published 2017
e-book edition 2017
Cover images courtesy of the New Mexico Tourism Department.
First published 2017
ISBN 978.1.62585.722.4
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016947530
print edition ISBN 978.1.46711.850.7
Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the authors or The History Press. The authors and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
INTRODUCTION
If youre just passing through, traveling in New Mexico is easy. Thousands of travelers do it every day. Take Interstate 25, which bisects the state north/south, and it will get you from Las Cruces to Raton efficiently, if not exactly quickly. (Its a big state after all.) Interstate 40 will take you across the state east to west or vice versa with equal convenience. Since large chunks of the state are flat, you wont need to slow down for much, and youll be rewarded with great views.
But theres a certain breed of traveler more focused on experience than expediency. Theyd prefer to wander than make time, to dwell on those views, to seek out the complex and varied history of this state and absorb the lessons it has to offer. Theyre into detours. This book is for themfor you.
Fans of the detour are drawn to New Mexico for the vibrant history here, layers of it nearly everywhere you turn. Thats in keeping with a land where modern roads were laid on top of wagon ruts that were, in turn, laid on top of footpaths, well trod by the states native sons and daughters. But the benefits of detouring run even deeper than simple history lessons. By leaving the beaten path behind, youll get closer to the real New Mexico, the one lived day to day in all its diversity. And that experience invariably results in small discoveries that offer big insights into the state, its people and their circumstances.
To help you have the most compelling adventures as you travel, weve divided the state into six geographic regions: northwestern, north-central, northeastern, central, southwestern and southeastern. These are divisions of convenience only; in fact, youll find that some of the detours intersect. Where it makes sense, weve offered guidance on the hidden connections between detours, which we call Detour Dj Vu.
A few cautions before you begin:
Road conditions can change from day to day and season to season in New Mexico. Be prepared to take alternate routes on occasion when weather (or road construction) interferes with your bestlaid plans.
Schedules can change as well. Weve done our best to provide accurate information about detour attractions, but your results might vary. Its best to call ahead.
Keep your equipment in good working order. Make sure your vehicle is maintained, keep your tank full (it can occasionally be a long way between gas stations) and replenish your snack and water supplies often.
Youll also be visiting a number of ancient and modern cultural sites, all of which have been carefully preserved. Please respect local customs to ensure these sites are available for future detour enthusiasts. Weve included a guide on Pueblo Etiquette from the New Mexico Department of Tourism after this introduction. Please note that this book capitalizes the word Pueblo when used in the formal name, like the Pueblo of Pojoaque, or when referring to the residents and Native people and does not when referring to the structure itself.
Weve had a lot of help along the way assembling this collection of detours, and wed like to recognize the following contributors: Robert Julyan, whose knowledge of the state is unbounded; Travis Suazo of the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, whose helpful guidance made vital parts of the book possible; Vickie Ashcraft, Frank Norris and Kaisa Barthuli, to whom we turned often for insights into Route 66 history; and Dixie Boyle, who is working diligently to preserve the history of Highway 60. We are also indebted to those many people who shared their stories with us, including Jacob Viarrial of Pojoaque Pueblo, Grace Roybal of the Fort Sumner Historic Site, Lee Ann Sandoval and Robert Garnett in Dexter, Randy Dunson, Greg Reiche, George Tomsco, Steve Owen and many, many others. We also thank Chris Pike and Emily Lewis for their illustrations.
As any New Mexico traveler will tell you, theres a detour around every corner in the state. Weve barely scratched the surface of potential detour fun in this book. Our hope is that youll use it as a starter guide to help you get out and discover your own detours. New Mexico rewards exploration. So take that next turn, the one that seems to be beckoning you, and be open to what it offers.
Happy detouring!
PUEBLO VISITOR ETIQUETTE
Attractions on tribal lands, especially those located along major highways, are usually intended for tourists, but tribal communities are home to living Native American cultures and people. When visiting a tribal community, show respect as if you are a guest in someones home and abide by the recommended visitor etiquette.
First, contact tribal offices or visitor centers to determine if the tribal community, its dances and events are open to the public. Please note tribal offices and visitor centers may be closed on Pueblo feast days.
Obey all posted signs in tribal communities. Inquire about rules on photography, sketching and recording, as these activities may be prohibited. Fees and restrictions vary for each pueblo and tribe.
Cellphonesit is best to leave them in your vehicle when attending Pueblo events.
Direct visitor inquiries to visitor centers and tribal offices, not private homes or unmarked buildings. Respect the residents of the tribal community you are visiting.
Remember that Pueblo feast days, dances and ceremonies are expressions of religious belief, not shows or performances. Applause after dances is not appropriate. Dances do not begin and end at precise times and should be observed with attention and respect. Actions such as pushing to the front of a crowd, talking loudly, pointing for extended periods of time, blocking others views and approaching dancers is inappropriate. Enter a pueblo home as you would any otherby invitation only. It is courteous to accept an invitation to eat, but be respectful and do not linger at the table, as your host will be serving many guests throughout the day. Thank your host after eating.
Drive slowly in tribal communities; watch for pedestrians and animals.
Obey all posted signs and refrain from entering off-limit areas. Never attempt to climb a ladder to enter a kiva.
Be mindful of your children at all times.
Limit your questions about religion and culture, as some subject matter is not for public knowledge.
