Mae Gallagher - Pattern Fitting and Alteration for Beginners: Fit and Alter Your Favorite Garments With Confidence

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Introduction

I have a small fitting and alteration shop in New York and I am always swamped with work. From store opening to closing time, customers would come in and out. Weekends are particularly busy as the busy people of New York could only squeeze a free Saturday afternoon for an alteration. I even have standing orders three to six months in advance. Orders range from minor trouser length adjustments and fixing loose seams to major size readjustment and pattern modification. I dont think there will ever be a downtime for fitting and alterations as clothes are an essential part of our lives.

In my line of work, there are two moments in the alteration experience I enjoy the most. The first is hearing the reason for the customers concern for alteration. I like talking with customers and how they relate with their clothes. When I was starting out, I would interact with them in a straightforward manner. I would simply ask them, So, what do you want me to do? and they would proceed to telling me how they want to add an extra pocket or trim the shirt edges. Customers were mostly in control, telling me what exactly they wanted me to do with their clothes. I was simply the alterations tailor: cutting and sewing according to my customers specifications.

The more I grew in this business, the greater I felt I wanted to have a more active relationship with my customers. I began to have a regular set of customers and I felt bored with the routine of just executing commands. Instead of asking them what exactly they want me to do, I asked them, With these clothes, what look do you want? At first customers were startled with my question. They expected me just to be more technical and business-like. That opening would have them really thinking for some time but that question opened up a lot of conversations on peoples thoughts on clothes and on how they want to look in general.

Some of the replies were quite interesting to hear.

I want to look thinner.

I want to make my hips look smaller.

I want to emphasize my shoulders.

I took these replies and began customizing their clothes according to the look they want. This was such a refreshing change from the technical approach I was using with alterations. When I know what people want to look like, I can recommend certain alterations that will make my customers feel better about their clothes. It was also a teaching moment for me when I heard their projected look. For example, a client would like to make me trim her trousers just below the knee level. When I asked her what look she was aiming for, she said I want to look taller. In principle, I agree that shortening the pants can make you look taller. But the length she wanted to go for will not really make her taller. In fact, it would even emphasize her short stature by exposing her entire leg. I recommended that we cut the trousers on the shin area, between the knee and the heel. We could even extend it only until above the heel. In this way, the illusion of long legs can be preserved. She had a look in mind, but her principles of design did not match that. It was a complete change for me, moving from a simple technical tailor to a proactive design collaborator.

There were other standout replies with my initial question. It was such a powerful question that people began opening up about their own lives. A simple question about clothes and looks could easily evolve into a conversation about how they feel about their body or the stress they feel from work. Some of the memorable answers were:

I want to be able to wear my old clothes from ten years ago. These have a special memory for me, but I just cant fit into them with my current size.

I want to look confident in my clothes. My bosses are critical of everything and I want to project an image of strength.

I want to look beautiful. I feel Im too fat and people around me are staring. I want to feel good about myself.

These anecdotes really touch my heart and make me realize how valuable my work is as a tailor. We may think that fitting and alteration is a simple cutting and trimming of clothes, but we are mistaken. When we are able to make clothes properly fit people, they feel better about themselves. When clothes emphasize the best part of people, customers feel a lot more confident about themselves. When trousers or dresses are able to hide unwanted contours, clients feel more secure about interacting with others. In our own way, fitting and alterations can make people feel beautiful and good about themselves.

I relish the second best moment in my alteration experience: the moment of fitting the new clothes. Usually, people pick up their altered clothes from the shop and try them on at homes. I encourage a lot of my customers to try it on in the shop and then we can make the necessary changes. This saves a lot of time especially when customers have extra alterations they want to make.I really look forward to seeing them look at the mirror in their newly-altered clothes. The smile on their faces and the confidence they exude as they parade their clothes around the shop is priceless. When alterations uplift peoples moods and make them appreciate their own bodies, I feel that I have made a real difference.

This book is written to extend my humble fitting and alterations shop to your home. I really want to share that joy of making clothes work for people to everyone who appreciates and values these articles of clothing. I want to emphasize that everyone has that capacity to alter their own clothes. I have designed this book to be technically relevant to both beginners and those already familiar with the tailoring process. Each lesson is beautifully illustrated so that you will have a good visual that shows what I am talking about. Whether you are altering clothes as a hobby or for your established business, there is something new for you to learn in this book.

I want to make this book more interactive than other pattern-making books. I will describe general principles of design and the how-to for basic pattern fitting and alteration. I have designed each chapter as a mini-project for you to do. Dont just read this book as a leisurely, sit-down read. I envision that you have this book on your work table, and that you are reading the instructions as you are actually making your own clothes. With this book on the table and your hands on scissors and textile, we will accomplish projects and make the learnings really stick. The more clothes you work with, the more precise and accurate your alteration and fitting will be. Dont move too quickly through the projects until you have mastered each. This is not a race to finish the book in a day. Absorb what you can and then practice directly on real clothes. You will get better clothes after clothes, lesson after lesson.

These lessons are culled from my years of alterations and fittings. I will introduce you to basic patterns and fittings. I will also let you in on tricks and hacks I have learned along the way. Some people need to go to fashion school in order to sew and design well. I believe that any who is willing to take up tailoring seriously can learn from anywhere. With my guidance, you will be more confident in your pattern making and even in deciding how clothes fit people well.