Virginia Willis - Bon Appetit, Yall: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking

I wouldnt be the woman, person, or chef I am today without the love and support of my Mama. Like it or not, you cant help growing up to be like your parents. If I grow to be as half as generous as my mother, I will have achieved far more than I ever thought I would.

Becky makes me smile, keeps me grounded, and is my one true love. I look forward to making biscuits for her as long as old men sit and talk about the weather, as long as old women sit and talk about old men. Forever and ever, amen.

My sister Jona, who has all the common sense, also has unconditional love, support, and belief in meas I do in her. Thank you for still being here.

The first years of my life were spent in a home next door to my grandparents, Meme and Dede, who instilled in me a love of food and familyand taught me how to clean a deer.

I thank Sara Minchew for taking me in to Saras home for the homeless, loving me as a daughter, and helping make my dream a reality with her endless understanding.

Lisa Ekus is a phenomenal woman whom I am incredibly happy to have in my life as a friend and guide. My love, respect, and admiration for her and her work are beyond words.

Without the guidance of my mentor, Nathalie Dupree, I would not have found my way to this complicated path, much less on it. She has had a hand in so much of what I have been able to accomplish in my career.

Anne Willan taught me how to write a recipe. My first drafts to her were returned soaking in red ink corrections, but I finally learned the La Varenne Way.

Martha Stewart allowed me the opportunity to learn something new every day and exposed me to the infinite possibilities of a career in food.

Heartfelt gratitude and deep appreciation go to the following:

Gena Berry, for her precious friendship and unending energy, and for being my indefatigable cheerleader.

Mary Moore of The Cooks Warehouse, who helped me get my career off the ground in Atlantaand became one of my dearest friends.

Angie Mosier for her astonishing work and her clear vision of what Southern food can and should be.

Jeannette Dickey, my Atlanta editor, who helped me corral both my proposal and my manuscript and helped me stay true to my voice.

The members of the Atlanta chapter of Les Dames dEscoffier, Georgia Organics, and Southern Foodways Alliancebecause its all about teamwork.

Cheryl Galway of Whole Foods Market for her generous support, for helping local make a difference, and for her community involvement.

Francois Dionot, founder and chef of LAcademie de Cuisine set me off on the right track with a sound knowledge of classic technique.

The recipe testers and photo shoot assistants: Wendy Allen, Alison Berry, Sue Clontz, Adeline Craig, Cecelia Jenks, Caroline Joe, Shirley Lawrence, Marta Luce, Elise Luce, Megan McCarthy, Rachael Milder, Michelle Moore, Steve Moorman, Wayne Naihe, Michele Phillips, Calvin Rouse, Paula Skinner, Gloria Smiley, Alison Stockum, Donna Taylor, Nancy Waldeck, and Linda Wilson.

To the incredible culinary professionals who agreed to put their name on this book, answered questions along the way, or have just been helping me spread the love: Alton Brown, Tamie Cook, Shirley Corriher, Nathalie Dupree, John T. Edge, Damon Fowler, Scott Peacock, Susan Puckett, Anne Willan, and Marvin Woods.

To the Serenbe community, inn, and organic farm, for allowing us to share the beauty of rural Georgia in these pages.

Thank you to a host of very special friends and loved ones who are always there: Lisa and Terry Allen, Leslie Allen and Got-Any-Leftovers-Lloyd Prince, Lee Babbitt, Evan Bernstein and Rich Wilner, Melita Easters, Michele Minchew, Claire Perez, Lindy Shallcross, Mike Thomas, and Louise Waites.

Finally, thanks to Clancy Drake, Ellen Silverman, and the talented folks at Ten Speed Press for making such a beautiful book.

Bon apptit, yall!

Nueskes Hillcrest Farm

Tel. 800-392-2266

www.nueskes.com

Sweet Grass Dairy

Tel. 229-227-0752

www.sweetgrassdairy.com

Tel. 866-LA-CFOOD

www.live-crawfish.com

White Lily Flour

Tel. 800-264-5459

www.whitelily.com

Anson Mills

Tel. 803-467-4122

www.ansonmills.com

Riverview Farms

Tel. 706-334-2926

www.grassfedcow.com

White Oak Pastures

Tel. 229-641-2081

www.whiteoakpastures.com

Pearson Farm

Tel. 888-423-7374

www.pearsonfarm.com

Bentons Smoky Mountain Country Hams

Tel. 423-442-5003

www.bentonscountryhams2.com

Savannah Bee Company

Tel. 912-234-0688

www.savannahbee.com

Vanns Spices

Tel. 800-583-1693

www.vannsspices.com

Zatarains

www.zatarains.com

Bland Farms

Tel. 912-654-1426

www.blandfarms.com

Hors doeuvres whet the appetite but do not satiate; they are just a little something to begin a meal or to nibble on between meals.

In my grandmothers rural South, dainty bites and tea sandwiches would only appear at showers and weddings. This was mostly because there was no need to stimulate the appetite of hardworking farmers and field hands. But also, perhaps, it was that hors doeuvres just seemed to marry so naturally with a cocktail, that forbidden elixir of hell to small-town Protestants.

As Im neither teetotaler nor field hand, Im glad hors doeuvres have become part of the modern Southern table, where they can be as highbrow as a starter of or as down-home as boiled peanuts.

Some Southern hors doeuvres, unfortunately, partake of the trashy element of Southern cooking that relies on processed foods. Im here to tell you that a bag of little smokies, a bottle of ketchup, and a jar of grape jelly combined in a slow cooker, served with a box of toothpicks on the side, is not an hors doeuvre. I wont be sharing recipes for canned crescent rolls with fake crab or Vienna sausages and cubes of Velveeta speared with a pretzel stick. Nor will I advise you to put out a potato chipcrusted casserole to eat on small plates and call it an hors doeuvre.

Because theyre not everyday fare, hors doeuvres made for a party can require a bit of additional planning and thought. All of the recipes in this chapter have tips on making ahead to help you juggle preparation and serving. And here are a few tips that will help you plan.

Judge how much youll need. Theres a fine balance between generously feeding your guests and wasting food. Remember that the greater the variety, the more likely people are to try at least one of everything. Also, the size of serving utensils and plates is important: the larger the serving utensil, the more your guests will take (and likely not finish).