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Sandra Bao - Lonely Planet Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest

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Sandra Bao Lonely Planet Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest
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Lonely Planet Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest: summary, description and annotation

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Catch a breath of sea air as you watch orcas leap and splash off shore at Lime Kiln Point

Find yourself sleeping in a classroom after drinking in the Kennedy Schools Detention Bar

Navigate the Cascades jagged ridges by eco-friendly llama

Brush off your snowboots and snuggle up by a 92ft fireplace

In This Guide:

Local authors, 217 days of research, 76 detailed maps, five rock concerts

You asked for it, we checked it out everything you need to know about microbreweries, island-hopping and offbeat locales

Sandra Bao: author's other books


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Contents

Destination Pacific Northwest

You hold in your hands a guide to one of the most glorious regions in the US. From the early European settlers who first began to trickle into the West 200 years ago to todays flow of modern-day explorers seeking that has-it-all haven, the Pacific Northwest has always exerted a strong pull on the adventurous of spirit. Mention the Northwest to folks outside this area and youll start a conversation on the regions lush forests, snow-dusted volcanic mountains and amazing waterways and coastlines. Then you might gab about the vibrant economy, up-and-down unemployment rates and computer industry (thats the Silicon Forest to the uninitiated). And certainly youll discuss the rain (though it doesnt rain here as much as in Florida or Louisiana, believe it or not!). Locals dont mind, though, since it keeps everyone else from moving in, buying up cheap real estate and plopping down in their backyard. (Actually it might already a bit late for that.)


Fast Facts

Pacific Northwest population: 14.5 million

Regional unemployment rate: 4.8%

Height of Mt Rainier, the highest peak in the Cascades: 14410ft (4392m)

Number of extinct volcanoes within city limits: two (in Bend, OR, and Portland, OR)

Approximate number of breweries in the Pacific Northwest: 220


But grey skies, green forests, high-tech industries and cheap housing aside, theres so much more on offer in the Pacific Northwest. For metro lovers, there are the sophisticated cities of Seattle, Portland and Vancouver. Were talking top-notch museums, refined culture and upscale cuisine, all wrapped in dazzlingly beautiful skylines and surrounded by river, sound or strait. World-class attractions? Theres Seattles Pike Place Market, Portlands many picturesque gardens and Vancouvers Stanley Park. Good food? The long coast means a bounty of fresh seafood, and fertile inland soils mean local and often organic grains, meats and vegetables. And of course theres a wealth of exciting restaurants to prepare and serve it all. How about wine? Yes, theres wine, and it comes in spades. Washington and Oregon are in the top three wine-producing US states (after neighboring California). And its first-class stuff, too try the local superstar, pinot noir.

Did we mention the possibilities for outdoor recreation? There are heaps of them and theyre all so damn accessible! Seattle is a ferry-ride (or kayaking trip, of you fancy one) away from cycling on serene islands, and glacier-ridden Mt Rainier looms not far from the city. Portland is an hour or two from surfing on the coast, kiteboarding on the Columbia River Gorge and skiing on Mt Hood. In Bend, Oregon probably the regions premier outdoor city you can hike (or kayak) in the morning, ski (or rock climb) in the afternoon and golf (or mountain bike) into the evening. Not bad for a days outing. Vancouver is surrounded by verdant forests, lofty mountains and deep-blue waterways, offering great hiking and water sports.

Perhaps the coolest thing about the Pacific Northwest, however, are the laid-back lifestyle, the casual vibe and the independent spirit that define this unique region. Sure, theres a certain stressful quality to the bigger cities, but theyre hardly as frantic or taxing as places like New York or Los Angeles. People are generally friendly, progressive and open, especially if you buy them a microbrew at one of the numerous local brewpubs. Theres not much of a dress code; with the weather and outdoors so in your face, you can wear Gore-Tex to a fancy restaurant or jeans to the opera and fit right in. Grungy hipsters, nerdy tech-heads, responsible dog-owners and organic gardeners all abound. Hanging out at a coffee shop for hours, drinking the Northwests premium java and accessing wi-fi on a laptop is so common that youll wonder if anyone around here has a real job. For most who settle in this region, quality of life matters more than a full bank account or a glamorous facelift.

But a laid-back outlook doesnt mean Northwesterners dont care whats going on around them. Quite the opposite: theyre highly attuned to the economy and the political bubble of the region, and whatever is going on outside of it. People in the regions major cities tend to lean towards the political left, boasting progressive views and perhaps being part of an activist group, while smaller towns are much more conservative (but still friendly). Almost everyone is quick to voice their own opinion, whether its the spotted owls versus forest management controversy or personal rights like Oregons famous death with dignity act versus conservative ethics. People are deeply concerned about their environment and whats happening to affect their valued and independent lifestyle here in the Northwest.

This region is also vibrant place in terms of ethnicity. Seattle has attracted a large variety of peoples, and claims a varied palate that includes African American, Hispanic and folk from various Asian cultures. In Portland, while many locals lament the citys white-bread status at least compared to its sister cities in the Northwest the city does actually have a fair share of the rainbow, with over 20% of the population possessing non-European blood. British Columbia is Canadas quintessential melting pot of cultures, creeds and ethnicities, making the province as varied in terms of culture as it is in terms of ecology. Minorities here include a large percentage of Chinese and those from the subcontinent.

Dandy as things are in the Pacific Northwest, not everything is perfect. Urban sprawl is a major issue around Seattle, Portland and Vancouver, which have attracted so many transplants from other states (especially California) that theyve grown like weeds in the past decade or two. Illegal drug problems do exist, especially methamphetamine abuse. Plenty of people smoke marijuana. And recent drought years, climate changerelated or not, have affected the ski industry, broken record temperatures, intensified wildfires, affected coastal whale habitats and killed salmon in too-warm rivers. These are problems that affect many high-density areas, and unfortunately the Northwest hasnt been able to escape all these metropolitan plagues.

Yet the Pacific Northwests highly livable reputation remains solid (and well deserved), and while the cost of living might be slowly increasing over time, what residents get in return is undeniably worth the trouble. On a clear day, the inspiring spectacle of the outdoors such as that inspirational volcanic peak is visible even from the biggest cities. That nature-loving, independent spirit is all around in this often quirky region that tends to shy from the traditional mainstream. Perhaps its a flashback to those resilient pioneers, fueled by the determination to push ever further into the unknown. Though todays Northwest populations tend to be driven by espresso rather than the desire to chart new territory, there remains a culture founded on restless idealism and the sense that theres still more prospecting to do. Indeed, youre expected to delve into the outdoors and scout on your own, so remember to pack some hiking boots and an adventurous attitude. And remember that no matter how long youre here and how much you end up doing, there will always be something left to explore the next time around handy, since theres no doubt youll soon want to come back to the Pacific Northwest.

Getting Started


The Pacific Northwest is an easy, fun and scenic place to travel. Pick a theme if you want camping, regional festivals, a microbrewery tour, waterfall hikes, crossing all the USCanadian borders or combine several. Having your own car makes life much, much easier, especially when exploring those off the beaten paths, of which there are many. Just keep in mind that summertime requires some planning ahead for long ferry lines, full hotels and busy destinations everyone else wants in on the fun too.

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