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Agness Greene Foster - By the Way: Travel Letters Written During Several Journeys Abroad, Describing Sojourns in England, S

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Transcribers Note Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original - photo 1
Transcriber's Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
CASTELLO MEZZATORRE
BY THE WAY
Travel Letters Written
During Several Journeys Abroad
Describing Sojourns in England, Scotland, Ireland
France, Germany, Austria-Hungary
Italy, Greece, and European
and Asiatic Turkey
BY
AGNESS GREENE FOSTER
Author of
"You & Some Others"
"A Royal Road"
"Blessings"
Etc.
Illustrated
PAUL ELDER & COMPANY
PUBLISHERS SAN FRANCISCO
REVISED AND ENLARGED
EDITION
New material has been added in this edition including sojourns in Turkey, Greece, Austria-Hungary and Germany. While not intended in any way as a guide-book, this volume will be found especially helpful to those contemplating a first journey across the Atlantic. Attention is called to the list of pensions and to the bibliography.
Copyright, 1903
by
Agness Greene Foster
Copyright, 1910
by
Paul Elder and Company
The Author's Apology

MY DEAR:
" When at the first I took my pen in hand
Thus for to write, I did not understand
That I at all should make a little book
In such a mode; nay, I had undertook
To make another, which, when almost done,
Before I was aware I this begun.
... But yet I did not think
To show to all the world my pen and ink
In such a mode; I only thought to make
I knew not what: nor did I undertake
Thereby to please my neighbor; no, not I,
I did it mine own self to gratify. "
* * * * * * * *
And thus it was, one bright September day,
Full suddenly I finished "By The Way."
CONTENTS
Page
iii
ix
Part I
3
28
34
51
93
105
Part II
115
120
129
132
134
137
162
171
177
ILLUSTRATIONS
Facing
Page
Title
10
16
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60
68
74
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BY WAY
OF PREAMBLE
Ah me, ah me, that I should be
So torn by my inconstancy;
I fain would goI tarry so,
But see the world, I mustheigh-ho.
WASHINGTON:
I ndeed , and in truth, one is rarely natural save under deep emotions. After all my resolutions and determinations, I found I was not able to part from those I love with any degree of composure.
I assure you that I did not stay composed very long, for as the cruel train pulled out, and I saw, through a mist of tears, that dear form fade from sight, I broke down, and remained "down" all the afternoon and evening. With this morning's bright sunshine, however, I am a man (?) again.
The first sound I heard this morning was, "Here's a message for you, Miss" and straightway that porter's name goes rattling down the rocky road of history as a discerning and right-minded person. What married woman of, well, let's say thirty, does not enjoy being called "Miss"? But to go back to my telegram,it served as my djeuner la flicit . From that moment I was happy, and peace has taken possession of me since the coming of that dear message.
PHILADELPHIA:
The ship was so white and clean, and I was so pleased over our stateroom, that I forgot for a moment the big lump in my throat; but I do not understand why people allow those near and dear to them to come to see them off. Nothing could have kept me on that boat had my nearest and dearest been standing on the dock.
Ruth and Suzanne are here at last.
I am sending these lines back with the pilot.
I wish he were to take me instead of the letter.
How I envy it!
ON BOARD SHIP:
There has been no writing on board this ship for the past four days, and very little sleeping, and less eating. Every one seemed sick except Ruth, a few of the men and myself. Those of us who were able to crawl up on deck were lashed to our steamer chairs and the chairs lashed to the deck.
The pilot left at six in the evening. Every one on board rushed to the side to see the sailors lower him into his little boat, and I watched him as far as the eye could see, for he carried with him my last message to you.
We no sooner struck the breakwater than the ship began to roll, and the tossing has continued for four days without cessation, for we are following in the wake of a storm.
You asked me to tell you every little detail of life on board ship. You little know the task you set me; and right here I desire to put myself on record as begging the pardon of all writers on this subject for my unkind thoughts of them. I see now, after only five days on shipboard, why all descriptions are so unsatisfactory to those who have never experienced a voyage.
In the first place, the word "deck" is most inadequate. One naturally thinks that a deck is an open space on the top of a ship, similar to that of a river steamboat. The decks are in reality wide piazzaswhen the sea is quiet. On them the passengers congregatewhen all is well with them and with the elements. I say "up on deck," when it is only "out on the veranda." Flights of easy stairs connect the various floors. These stairs are dancing continually, but one soon gets used to it if one has his "sea legs," and usually arrives safely. This ship is similar to an oval house of several stories, with galleries or verandas running completely around each story, and any number of basements and sub-basements; but with these we have nothing to do.
As I crossed the gangplank I landed on the saloon deck and entered the only door on that side. I found myself in a small hallway, out of which opened the ladies' saloon and the writing-rooms, and from which the stairs descend to the floor where the dining-room and most of the berths are situated. My stateroom is on the top story, so I have only to step from our hallway on to the main deck.
I read the description which I have just written to the captain, and I wish you could have heard him shout. He begged me to permit his "tiger" to make a copy of it for him, and I did, but I was sorry the moment it left my hands, for I know it is most absurd, and it was intended for you only. Nevertheless, I'll venture the assertion that those who know will readily see the picture, and those who do not know will get a pretty good idea of how a ship looks.
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