Norah Gaughan - Knit Fold Pleat Repeat: Simple Knits, Gorgeous Garments

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Table of Contents

Guide

K

N

I

T

F

O

L

D

PLEAT

REPEAT

K

N

I

T

F

O

L

D

PLEAT

REPEAT

NORAH GAUGHAN

Simple Knits, Gorgeous Garments

Abrams, New York

CONTENTS

Garments and accessories made

from squares and rectangles

Flat surfaces are magically

transformed with repetitive

stitchwork

Multiple squares, rectangles,

or folded shapes joined to

create unique surfaces

The addition of shaping

refines the fit

Folds, tucks, and

rectangular inserts enhance

traditional shapes

Introduction

AFTER A FEW DECADES

of designing

primarily traditionally shaped garments

pullovers with a front, a back, and a pair of

sleeves, or cardigans with two fronts, a back,

and a pair of sleevesI found myself becoming

increasingly interested in building garments in

other ways. While still covering the body, and

needing to accommodate the head and arms, a

sweater can be shaped from a single rectangle,

or folded from a few simple shapes, or composed

of multiple geometric shapes joined together.

Have you ever had the experience of

becoming aware of an idea and immediately

starting to see similar ideas everywhere you

looked? Almost the minute I became interested

in alternative constructions, I noticed many fash-

ion designers were exploring similar concepts.

I began taking note of those who were on a

like-minded journey, as well as those who had

designed such garments centuries earlier. These

were not just knitwear designers: Many of the

folks I admired were sewing dresses, jackets,

or even skirts. Still, the concepts applied. As

always, I collected magazine clippings and saved

ideas digitally. Each had the potential to seed a

new design idea. Garments from museums and

those seen on the runway were of equal inter-

est. I realized that the basics of designing with

folded fabric began when garment making first

began, and seemed to resurface in fashion every

few years, starting in the 1920s.

When exploring garments made out of

basic shapes like squares and rectangles, natu-

rally, the idea of origami as inspiration came to

mind. I ruminated on this book idea for a while.

Would the designs be made from rectangles

alone? Over time the scope and parameters

began to expand. Not only can rectangles make

interesting and useful sweaters, the surfaces

of knit rectangles can be manipulated. Woven

fabric can be transformed with pleats, tucks,

and smockingwhy not knit fabric? Loosen-

ing the grip on my original rectangles only

concept, I let in the idea of working with polyg-

onal shapes like pentagons, hexagons, and

octagons. When paper is being prepared for its

final folding in traditional Japanese origami, the

surface becomes adorned with interesting and

beautiful fold lines. The polygon and fold line

ideas seemed to intersect naturally: Repeating

patterns on a hexagon looked very much like

the lines left on paper after folding and unfold-

ing. Why not include fold lines in the book also?

Studying the photos I had gathered, there were

many that applied folds and pleats to otherwise

conventional garments. Eventually, I knew that

I would want to introduce some conventional

shaping in the later chapters, which led to apply-

ing folded elements to more typical sweater

shapes and constructions.

As I obsessively collected inspirations

over a decade or so, I grew some of the seeds

of thought into designs for magazines and yarn

companies. As I explored and learned, more new

ideas sprang up, and I learned a lot about how

to make these ideas easier to knit and easier to

design. For those who wonder if it is possible to

run out of ideas, I believe that the answer is no.

The more you explore, the more notions spring

to mind.

KNIT FOLD PLEAT REPEAT

C H A P T E R 1

CONCEPTS

THE CHAPTERS

The designs in this book begin with the simplest and, as

the chapters progress, build in complexity, transitioning

from basic geometric shapes to conventionally

constructed garments with folded features and

adornments.

Square Up

Every garment and accessory in Square Up is

composed of rectangles. Our exploration begins with a

simple square, worked on the bias and transformed into

an oversized kerchief with a simple slit for fastening.

The complexity of the projects grows as rectangles

are joined and knit onto each other to create easy-to-

wear garments. Ribs and textural patterns are a joy

to knit, with no worry about keeping in pattern while

shaping, since there

is

no shaping. Accessoriesbuilt

from rectangles and tubeshave fun with touches of

color and with sections knit in their own shade. For

adventurous knitters, Ive included a cable challenge.

While the techniques might seem daunting at first

glance, you can indulge in mastering two-sided cables

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