Norah Gaughan - Norah Gaughans Twisted Stitch Sourcebook: A Breakthrough Guide to Knitting and Designing

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Table of Contents

Guide

NORAH GAUGHANS

Twisted Stitch

Sourcebook

A Breakthrough Guide to

Knitting and Designing

Abrams, New York

Contents

TWISTED STITCH SOURCEBOOK

MAKING UP NEW PATTERN STITCHES

is my favorite thing

to do. I first discovered this years ago, when I was

just beginning to design professionally, and my love

has only grown since. The aha! moment for me came

after returning home from a magazines annual design

meeting with memories of a lovely textural pattern

from the editors inspiring slide show. After diving

into stitch reference books to figure out where to

start, Barbara Walkers Treasuries provided the tools I

needed. Twisted stitches were what I needed to build

the pattern I was remembering, or what the pattern

had turned into in my head. I tested the several ways

of making twisted stitches suggested, and the authors

favorites became my favorite methods as well. I used

these exact ways of forming right and left twists for

several decades, only recently adjusting my left twist

to more exactly match the right twist (see ).

Putting my new skills to good use, I began by inventing

loads of patterns with twisted stitches. I found it

so much fun to rearrange a few simple elements

knit, purl, right twist, and left twistinto new-to-me

formations. A few years later my interests broadened

to include cables. I credit this early dive into inventing

twisted stitches with my love of making up cables and

the eventual publication of

Norah Gaughans Knitted

Cable Sourcebook

. While Ive incorporated twisted

stitches in my work now and again over my career,

I recently renewed my devotion to these stitches.

So, just what are twisted stitches? Knitting terms often

have different meanings in different circumstances. For

instance, the term

twisted stitch

has a few common

meanings. When you knit or purl through the back loop

of a stitch, that makes a twisted stitch, but not the

kind of twisted stitch this book is about. In this book,

twisted stitches are two stitches that change places

with each other, much like a cable, but worked entirely

on the needles in a special way, by working two stitches

Introduction

together and one of them on its own. While the look is

very similar to a cable, these stitches stand out from the

fabric in high relief, much more than if the switching of

places was worked like a cable, with one stitch held in

the front or back while the other stitch is being worked.

Why do I love twisted stitches? As much as I adore

cables, it is very satisfying to be able to knit elaborate-

looking surface patterns without the interruption of

placing stitches on a cable needle or performing the

machinations of working a cable without a cable needle.

I am intrigued by how much a few simple motions can

do. On a very basic level, stacking twists on top of each

other makes mini cables, and lining them up makes

diagonals, slanting either to the right or left. Combining

either or both of these things with knits and purls

opens up infinite possibilities.

This book is divided into three parts: Stitches,

Garments, and Designing Your Own. ,

Stitches, contains 130 stitches, most of which are

newly invented and some that are fundamental basics.

The number of stitches is actually higher. I cheated

a bit in and knit related small columns in

swatches together. The first two stitch

and , contain stitches built entirely of diagonal lines.

Often, the stitches are shown in a series, with different

fills and background stitches aiding in the evolution

of one stitch into the next. The next three chapters

are defined by the addition of horizontal and vertical

elements and then a combination of them all. Next,

eyelets and twists worked on the wrong side add

further complications. Finally, in the last stitch chapter,

repeating triangles of pattern form hexagons, which

look as if you were peering into a kaleidoscope.

The second part of this book, : Garments,

contains fifteen knitting patterns: twelve sweaters,

two scarves, and a hat and mitt set. The sweaters are

written in a full range of nine sizes, to fit chests 3062"

(76157.5 cm). Size inclusivity has long been a pet issue

for me. The societal pressure to be thin took its toll on

me when I was younger, and I am now very happy that

wonderful clothing can be found in a much wider range

of sizes than ever before.

I also believe its important for knitters to be able to

express themselves with the pieces they knit and wear.

Included at the end of each pattern is information on

how to switch out the stitches designated for a pattern,

replacing them with stitches of your choosing. To make

substituting stitches easier, I measured each swatch

in the book to see how much the gauge differed from

Stockinette knit with the same yarn and needles. Each

stitch pattern is labeled with a number indicating how

wide that stitch is compared with Stockinette. I call it

the Percentage of Stockinette Stitch, or PSS. Many of

the garments are very easy to customize using this

information. Making changes like these is the first step

to designing. Who knows where it might lead?

: Design Your Own is a guide for those

interested in making up their own new twisted stitch

patterns. I talk about how to get started by finding

inspiration, and how every new design is built upon

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