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Francis Davis Millet - The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea

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Francis Davis Millet The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
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(etext transcriber's note)
THE DANUBE
FROM THE BLACK FOREST
TO THE BLACK SEA
BY
F. D. M I L L E T
AUTHOR OF A CAPILLARY CRIME ETC.
ILLUSTRATED BY
THE AUTHOR AND ALFRED PARSONS
[Image unavailable.]
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
Copyright, 1892, by Harper & Brothers .
All rights reserved.
Wenn ich dann zu Nacht alleine
Dichtend in die Wellen schau,
Steigt beim blanken Mondenscheine
Auf die schmucke Wasserfrau
Aus der Donau
Aus der schnen, blauen Donau.
Beck.
CONTENTS
The Black ForestThe Brigach and the BregeThe Highest Sources of the DanubeJourney thence from LondonVillingenArrival at DonaueschingenThe Canoes and OutfitArbitrary Source of the Danube
The StartSwans and SpectatorsThe First Weir and First LuncheonSociety for the Preservation of the Banks of the DanubeTuttlingen and Max SchneckenburgerFirst Public Performance at a WeirFirst Night in Camp and a Spoiled BreakfastMonastery of Beuron and its MonksCrags and Castles
Sigmaringen and HohenzollernNuns at RiedlingenHaymakers and HaymakingThe Last WeirA Vigorous CurrentThe Confluence of the Iller and the DanubeUlm and the Danube Rowing ClubStart from UlmAppointment of Camp-finder
Lauingen; Its Architecture and its PeopleBlenheim and HchstdtDonauwrthLumber-rafts and our Narrow EscapeVirtuous VohburgRoman Remains and one of the Scenes in the NiebelungenliedWeltenburg AbbeyThe Befreiungshalle and KelheimIn Sight of Ratisbon
Ratisbon; Its Architecture and its PeopleThe WalhallaThe Plain of StraubingA Summer SquallA Typical Bavarian Farm-houseVisit to a Local Freight Flat-boatRowing Clubs at Deggendorf and at Winzer
Fourth of July at PassauThe Austrian FrontierThrough the Gorge in Rainy WeatherA Curious FerryA Brief Halt at Linz and a Camp at the Mouth of the TraunShooting the Rapids below GreinMelk and the Pass below
Drrenstein, the Dungeon of Richard Cur de LionRuins and SentimentA Gem of River SceneryCanalization of the RiverThe only Blue DanubeTulln and its AntiquitiesActive River CommerceOur Raftsmen Friends
Vienna; Its History and CharacteristicsThe Lia Rowing ClubOur Stay at Hainburg and Excursions in the NeighborhoodTheben, the Frontier Town of HungaryA Model Postmaster
Pressburg and the River belowMonotony of Landscape and our Introduction to Dust and MudGran; Its Situation and AttractionsVisegrdOur Hospitable ReceptionGeneral GrgeiOur Reluctant PartingApproach to BudapestThe First Accident to the FleetThe Neptune ClubGypsy Music
Budapest almost our CapuaThe Bridges and BathsThe Great Hungarian PlainCheery River FolkDuna FldvrA Surprise Picnic and a Severe StormIn the Heart of HungaryMohcs and a Veteran of Two WarsTokay and Patriotic Sentiments
The Franzens Canal between the Danube and the TheissA Heterogeneous PopulationMonostorszg and a Peasants DanceCurious Types and CostumesA Spectacular SundayFirst Signs of Oriental Life
A Watermelon MetropolisOur Fleet taken for Torpedo-boatsA Gypsy QueenPeterwardein and CarlowitzBusy Life on the BanksIn Sight of BelgradeEvening in CampThe Servian FrontierSemlin and BelgradeOriental Characteristics and Modern ImprovementsA Sculptors ParadiseAn Unexpected Encounter
Semendria and its Great CastleOur Passports are UselessBazias and the Entrance to the CarpathiansThe Emperors Birthday on a GunboatCastle of GolubDrenkova and the First RapidsEscape from a Whirlpool and a Dash through the Cataracts
Improvements to NavigationRapids of the JurThe Kasan DefileRemarkable River SceneryTrajans Tablet and Old Roman RoadwayOrsova and the HerkulesbadAda Kaleh, the Turkish SettlementThe Iron GatesThe Danube and the IsterOrigin of the Name of the DanubeWe Lose our AdmiralThe Iron GatesCaptured by Roumanian SoldiersUnder Military Supervision
We are Arrested in a Servian Militia CampBarbaric Soldiery and Strange PeopleWe Surrender to a Roumanian PicketA Characteristic Servian VillageThe Frontier of Bulgaria
Kalafat and WiddinA Gale out of a Clear SkyBulgarian FishermenWiddin and its PeopleQuaint Turkish Sailing CraftThe River Landscape and the Bulgarian VillagesCustom-house AnnoyancesOur Passports save us
A Grazing CountryWild-fowl in AbundanceNicopolis and the First Reminder of the War of 1877-78Exodus of Turks at SistovaTrip to PlevnaEchoes of the WarRustchuk and SilistriaMonotony and Mud
Squally Weather and Head-windsThe DobrudschaTrajans Great WallOur Camp is Besieged, but Peace is soon DeclaredA Roumanian VillageBraila and GalatzA Tribe of Gypsies
The Danube DeltaThe European Commission and its WorkSulina, a Town on English SoilWe Enter the Territory of the CzarThe River divides and the Delta begins
We Fraternize with Russian SoldiersA Night at a Picket StationCustom-house Formalities at IsmailWe Encounter the PoliceA Desolate LandWe Camp in the MudKiliaMoldavian Peasants and Russian Pickets
We reach Vilkoff and Renew our Struggles with the Custom-houseA Remote TownThe Sturgeon Fishery and CaviarWe Push on to the Black SeaA Gale is Blowing, and We make a Landing with DifficultyThe Roumanian CordonA Paddle in the Black SeaWe dismantle our Canoes and reach Sulina
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
THE DANUBE
FROM THE BLACK FOREST TO THE BLACK SEA
CHAPTER I
A T the head of a pleasant little valley high up among the bristling mountain-tops of the Black Forest, a tiny stream of clear water comes tumbling down the rocks, and, gathering strength and volume from an occasional spring or a rivulet, cuts a deep channel into the rich soil of the hayfields, and dances along gayly over its bed of glistening pebbles. To the north, west, and south the bold summits of the water-shed, heavily clothed in dark masses of coniferous trees, make a rugged, strongly accentuated sky line, and to the east delightful vistas of sunny slopes and fertile intervales stretch away in enchanting perspective to the hazy distance. This little stream, the Brigach, with its twin sister, the Brege, which rises about ten miles farther to the south, are the highest sources of the mighty River Danube, the great water highway of Europe since earliest history, celebrated for ages in legend and song, gathering on its banks in its course of nearly two thousand miles to the Black Sea the most varied and interesting nationalities in the civilized world, and unfolding in its flow the most remarkable succession of panoramas of natural beauty known to the geographer. The Black Forest Railway, which crosses the mountains from the valley of the Rhine into the upper valley of the Danube by the way of Triberg, mounts the western escarpment of the range by a series of steep grades, curves, and short tunnels, in the midst of beautiful scenery of a semi-Alpine character, and, after the divide is reached, follows the course of the Brigach to Donaueschingen, a tidy little town in the Grand Duchy of Baden, usually called the source of the Danube, and, for the greater part of the year, the head of navigation for small boats on the upper river. A mile and a half below Donaueschingen the Brigach and the Brege join, and the stream here receives the name of the Danube.
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