James Beard - Beard on Pasta (James Beard Library of Great American Cooking)
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Beard on Pasta (James Beard Library of Great American Cooking)
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This kitchen classic from James Beard-a name synonymous with culinary excellence-is back in print in a handsome edition featuring 100 of Beards favorite international recipes and in-depth information on pastas origins. An indispensable resource from the dean of American cooking.
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Commercial Dried Pastas (Italian and domestic egg noodles Chinese dried noodles specialty noodles) Store-Bought Fresh Pasta Flour for Homemade Pasta Equipment for Making and Saucing Pasta (mixing rolling shaping extrusion machines) Cooking Pasta Portions Important Ingredients (tomatoes olive oil cheese) What to Drink with Pasta
Cooking Pasta
Although I've been cooking pasta nearly all my life, the one thing I can't begin to tell you is how long it is going to take. The time varies too much, depending on the heat of the day, the amount of water in the pot, the kind of flour used, the proportion of flour to liquid in the dough, the shape of the noodles, and how long the pasta has sat in the warehouse and on your shelf.
All I can say is that fresh pasta cooks quickly, and that you should start testing it as soon as the water in the pot returns to the boil. Dried American pasta made with all-purpose flour cooks in far less time than the instruction on its box recommends, and should be tested after 3 or 4 minutes: it can become mushy very quickly. And I've had dried durum-wheat pasta from Italy that was supposed to be done in 8 minutes, and that I had to cook for a full 15 minutes before it lost the final core of uncooked dough in the center. I just had to keep fishing out strands with a fork and biting them until the noodles were at the point I wanted.
You start with a big potful of furiously boiling water. Your pot should be really big, holding 8 to 10 quarts. Buy one with high sides so that it sits right over your burner.
Old-Fashioned Chicken Fricassee with Wagon Wheels
A wonderfully soothing dish, a great old favorite. If your family likes only the white or only the dark meat, you can buy your chicken in parts instead of whole, and no one will feel disappointed. Wide noodles are traditional, but I served a fricassee with wagon wheels recently, and it made an amusing change.
6 servings
4 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 1/2-to-4-pound chicken, cut in pieces 3/4 cup sliced celery 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 2 tablespoons minced shallots 2 tablespoons flour 1 1/2 cups chicken stock 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 2 egg yolks 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1 pound wagon wheels or other pasta
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet. When the foam subsides, add the chicken to the pan and cook it for 1 minute, until it becomes firm on the outside but has not yet browned. Turn and sear the other side, and remove the chicken from the pan.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the skillet. When it is bubbling, stir in the celery, onions, and shallots. When they are nicely coated with butter, sprinkle on the flour and cook it briefly, stirring all the time. Do not let it brown. Add the chicken stock gradually, whisking constantly to avoid lumps.
Return the chicken to the pan with 1/2 cup of the cream, salt, pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg. Shake the pan to blend the spices. Bring the sauce to a low simmer, put the cover in place, and lower the heat. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes.
Uncover the skillet and remove the chicken to a covered dish, putting it in a 250 oven to keep it warm. Tip the skillet and, using a flat spoon, skim off the surface fat from the sauce.
In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 1/2 cup cream and the egg yolks. Slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot sauce into the egg mixture in a thin stream while you continue to whisk it. Then return the egg-sauce mixture to the pan containing the hot sauce. Cook it over low heat until it thickens to a light, creamy consistency that just coats the spoon. It must not overheat or begin to simmer, or it may curdle. Season with lemon juice and with more salt, if necessary.
Cook the noodles. Drain them, and combine with some of the sauce. Make a bed of noodles on a platter, and lay the chicken pieces on it, coated with the sauce.
Chicken Tetrazzini
Despite its Italian name, this is an all-American dish, probably invented in San Francisco to honor a famous singer. Now we remember her because of this dish. The whole point is in the chicken broth; if you have a good, rich broth, your sauce will be properly flavored. If it's good it's marvelous, if bada mess.
6 to 8 servings
31/2-to-4-pound chicken, cooked 2 sweet red peppers, peeled 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 tablespoons flour 21/2 cups chicken broth 1 cup heavy cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco 1/2 cup sherry 1 pound spaghetti 3/4 cup bread crumbs 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Remove the meat from the chicken and set it aside. Cut the peppers into dice. Make a velout sauce: Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan, then stir in the flour. When it is cooked and bubbling, stir in the chicken stock gradually, continuing to stir until the sauce is thickened. Add the cream, and season with the salt, pepper, Tabasco, and sherry.
Put the chicken and diced peppers into the sauce, and hold over low heat while you cook and drain the spaghetti and arrange it in a buttered baking dish. Spoon the chicken and sauce over the spaghetti. Cover the top with the bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese and dot with butter. Place in a 475 oven for a few minutes until the topping is glazed and bubbling.
Variations
To make a lightly curried Tetrazzini, add 1 tablespoon or more curry powder to the butter when you first make the velout. Let it cook for a minute before you add the flour.
If you are feeling rich and elegant, add a finely chopped black truffle to the chicken. Instead of a mixture of crumbs and cheese sprinkle toasted sliced almonds over the top.
Nutted Chicken-Rice Noodle Casserole
I first had this in a Danish restaurant in Seattle at least forty years ago, and I just loved the crust of buttery, crunchy sliced almonds. I suppose we should offer it to some prima donna, because it's very much like Chicken Tetrazzini. Perhaps, in honor of its Scandinavian origin, we should call it Chicken Nilsson.
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