Dorothy Wood - Bags Bags Bags

U nlike our grandmothers, few of us are content with only one bag. We need bags in a variety of shapes and sizes to see us through the day from tote bags for everyday use to smaller decorative bags for evening wear or special occasions. Bags are quite definitely designed on the adage form follows function as the things we need to carry determine their size and shape - the corduroy work bag on .

All bags have a handle of some sort, and because the type of handle very much defines the style of the bag, it has influenced the way the bags are featured in this book. The chapters include bags with fabric handles, bar handles, d-shape handles and ring handles. Handles are made from all sorts of materials, such as wood, bamboo and acrylic and you can find a range of styles in each. This makes it easy to alter the look of a bag: choose a bright acrylic handle rather than bamboo and the look goes from natural to contemporary. Change the fabric from soft tweed to brightly coloured canvas or PVC and the transformation is complete.

There is a huge choice of shapes and styles, from handbags to holdalls, and all the designs can be individually tailored to your own colour scheme or taste to create a truly unique bag. This is made possible because each bag has its own pattern, either drawn out and ready to enlarge, or where the pieces are a regular shape made from precise measurements included in the instructions.

Although a background in dressmaking is useful, you do not need any special skills to make any of the bags featured in this book. Each project has clear step-by-step instructions and detailed photographs guide you from cutting out to making up. If you are a novice sewer, read through the technique section before beginning so that you are familiar with some of the basic skills and refer back to the detailed instructions where indicated in the text.

Making your own bags has lots of advantages it is not only hugely satisfying and enjoyable but by choosing your own fabric, colours and embellishments you will make a truly unique bag and with so many different designs to choose from youll be busy for some time!

The type of equipment used for making bags is very similar to that needed for dressmaking and sewing soft furnishings. You only need a basic sewing machine, which has straight stitch, although a swing needle machine that has zigzag stitch can be useful. Remember to match the size of the sewing machine needle to the weight of the fabric, otherwise you will find it keeps breaking. Size 80/90 (14/16) is ideal. Read through this section to give you an overview of the kind of materials and equipment that are suitable for bag making.

Bags can be made from a wide range of fabrics anything from sheer organza to heavyweight furnishing fabrics can be used; it all depends on the style of the bag. When you buy fabrics for making a bag, your first instinct will probably be to head for the dressmaking department, but it is likely that you will find more suitable fabrics in the soft furnishings or curtain material department.

Most bags for everyday use require a fairly firm fabric so that the bag holds its shape in use and is strong enough to hold your possessions or shopping. Furnishing fabrics have that extra strength yet are still easy enough to stitch. One of the other advantages of furnishing fabrics is the huge choice available. Search through the rails of hanging samples in your local department store for gorgeous fabrics such as the polka dot fabric used on . The minimum order is usually one metre (one yard) but even so, you will have a fairly inexpensive, totally unique bag.

Linings are the fabrics used on the inside of the bag. The lining covers any interfacings or ugly seams and gives the bag a professional finish. It is important to give the lining as much thought as the main fabric. Linings are generally lighter in weight than the main fabric but you should choose the type of fabric depending on the style of bag. An evening bag can have a luxurious silk, satin or taffeta lining, whereas an everyday tote bag needs a more hard-wearing fabric. Choose colours or patterns that complement the main fabric this doesnt mean that the lining has to match it can be a complete contrast for a really funky look.

(from the top: fusible bonding web; sew-in Vilene;

lightweight woven iron-on interfacing; ultra-soft iron-on interfacing; iron-on canvas interfacing; fusible soft furnishing interfacing)

Interfacings are an essential component of bag making. They are used between the bag fabric and the lining, and you should generally attach the interfacing to the main fabric. The most practical interfacings are iron-on rather than sew-in as they support the fabric completely. You can even use a lightweight iron-on interfacing to give a length of dress fabric enough body to make a bag.

Whichever fabric you choose, it is likely that you will need to use an interfacing to support the shape of the bag. There is a huge range available, from ultra-soft, lightweight interfacings, to soft furnishing interfacings designed for tiebacks and pelmets. The interfacing you use will depend on the choice of fabric and the style of bag you are making. The step-by-step instructions for each bag suggest a type of interfacing to use, but you should try out your particular fabric with the interfacing to check if it is suitable.