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Jeff Birkby - Touring Hot Springs Montana and Wyoming: The States Best Resorts and Rustic Soaks

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Touring Hot Springs Montana and Wyoming: The States Best Resorts and Rustic Soaks: summary, description and annotation

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Featuring everything from developed hot springs resorts to isolated mountain pools, this newly revised guide covers the publicly accessible hot springs in Montana and Wyoming. Clear directions are given to each hot spring along with historical notes, nearby attractions, accommodations, and soaking regulations in Yellowstone National Park.

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Jeff Birkbys passion for hot springs began in the 1980s when he was hired as a geo-thermal energy specialist for the Montana state energy office. Jeff is a member of the Humanities Montana Speakers Bureau and often lectures on the social history of hot springs of the West. Jeff is also the author of Touring Washington and Oregon Hot Springs for FalconGuides, as well as Geothermal Energy in MontanaA Consumers Guide, published by the Montana Department of Environmental Quality. He also published Images of AmericaMontanas Hot Springs through Arcadia Publishing in 2018.

Jeff consults with hot springs owners on how they can use their thermal resources for greenhouse, pool, and space heating, as well as for electric power generation.

More than a dozen soakable hot springs are within a 2-hour drive of Jeffs home in Missoula, Montana.

If you have comments, corrections, or fresh information about any Montana or Wyoming hot springs, send your insights to Jeff Birkby c/o Falcon Publishing, or e-mail Jeff at . Hell check out your information for future editions of this guide.

During a road trip to visit the ruins of a Montana hot springs resort my - photo 1

During a road trip to visit the ruins of a Montana hot springs resort, my brother Bob commented that its not easy to make a thriving business out of a puddle of hot water. Ive learned that its also not easy to write a book about those puddles of hot water, and it certainly would have been impossible without the support and expert assistance of many individuals. The fascinating histories that enrich the text were generously shared by hot springs owners throughout Montana and Wyoming, to whom I am grateful. Thanks also to the many museum archivists who helped me bring to light the buried stories of Montana and Wyoming hot springs. These individuals include Dave Walter and Lory Morrow of the Montana Historical Society; Lee Whittlesey, archivist for Yellowstone National Park; and the museum staffs of the Wyoming Historical Society, the Park County Museum (Wyoming), the Gallatin County Historical Society, the Hot Springs Museum in Thermopolis, and the Fremont County Historical Society (Wyoming). Also thanks to Jessie OConner of the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce for sharing his knowledge of hot springs in the Jackson Hole area.

My thanks also to the awesome team at Falcon Guides for their hard work in guiding this third edition through the publication process. Special thanks to Acquiring Editor Jess dArbonne.

Im also grateful to my father, Robert Birkby Sr., and my mother, Evelyn Birkby, who taught me the joy of adventure and the pleasure of writing.

Finally, thanks to my many friends and colleagues with whom Ive enjoyed soaking in the warm water of the Rocky Mountains over the last four decades. The memories of all of those soaks are woven into the text of this guide.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

The fifty-four hot springs listed in the previous sections all provide wonderful soaking opportunities. But there are also several other hot springs in Montana and Wyoming that for various reasons arent open for public bathing. In some cases, hot springs pools and resorts that were once open to all have been purchased by owners who closed the bathing options to the public (and in some cases have even removed the soaking pools entirely). Resorts have been transformed into retirement homes and even a state hospital. And some old spas have fallen into ruin, their empty pools and crumbling walls sitting quietly in open fields that were once filled with the laughter of soakers in decades past.

The nine additional hot springs listed below no longer provide a soothing soak to visitors, but they have such interesting histories that its worth including them in this guide (after all, this is a touring guide to hot springs, and not just a soaking guide!). If you happen to be near one of these closed hot springs, feel free to stop on public roads that provide a view of the closed resorts or old ruins. Savor the history from a distance, but dont trespass on private property for a closer look.

(See map on page 47 [site 14].)

General description: A 40-foot-tall travertine mound created by a hot springs flowing from its peak. The rust-colored mound was once the most striking feature in the Deer Lodge Valley.

Location: Southwest Montana, 20 miles west of Butte.

Development: Developed. A small observation deck sits atop the hot springs mound, and a locked metal plate now covers the springs. The springs were used in the past for resort plunges.

Best time to visit: Because the hot springs mound must be viewed from a frontage road 0.5 mile away, the best time is probably in the winter, when foliage doesnt block the view.

Restrictions: The hot springs mound is located on the grounds of Warm Springs State Hospital. Visits by the general public are discouraged. Bathing is not permitted.

Access: Any vehicle can make the trip along the frontage road for a distant view of the hot springs mound.

Water temperature: 172 degrees F at the hot springs mound.

Nearby attractions: Fairmont Hot Springs, Discovery Basin Ski Area, Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness, Georgetown Lake.

Services: Gas and food are available in Anaconda, 8 miles southwest.

Camping: Racetrack Forest Service Campground is located northwest of Warm Springs. Take I-90 from Warm Springs north for 4 miles to the Racetrack exit. Take the Racetrack exit west for 1 mile, then south for 0.75 mile to FR 169. Follow FR 169 west for 10 miles to the campground.

Maps: Montana State Highways map; DeLorme Montana Atlas and Gazetteer, page 70, D2.

GPS coordinates: N46.1787 / W112.7942

Contact info: Director of Public Relations, Warm Springs State Hospital, Warm Springs, MT 59756; (406) 6937000.

Finding the springs: From Butte, head 20 miles west on I-90 to the Warm Springs exit. Because visitors are discouraged from entering the grounds of the Warm Springs State Hospital, the best view of the mound is about 0.5 mile south of the hospital on the frontage road that parallels the interstate. Look north and west from the frontage road toward the back of the hospital property for the large hot springs mound, topped with a redand-white observation kiosk.

THE HOT SPRINGS

The 40-foot-tall carbonate mound located near the center of the otherwise level Deer Lodge Valley is an impressive site. The mound is about 30 feet in diameter. The hot springs bubbling from the peak of the mound produce about fifty gallons per minute of 172-degree-F waterone of the hottest geothermal resources in the state of Montana. Several other hot springs used to bubble near the base of the mound. The mound itself is a brownish color due to the high iron content in the mineral deposits. An observation kiosk and sitting benches surround the now-capped springs on the top of the mound.

HISTORY

Warm Springs was known to Native Americans and early settlers as the deer lodge. The 188788 edition of the Holiday Miner, published in Butte, explained the history of the name and suggests the flavor of perceptions about hot springs over a century ago:

The origin of the name is credited to the poetic imagery of the Indians. Captain Mills, himself an old settler, calls it an old appellation, and states that it is derived from a large, sugarloaf mound, with a thermal spring on its summit. Situated near the center of the broad upper half of this valley, it is one of the most beautiful and interesting formations in the northwest, growing with the centuries, the waters building their throne slowly, imperceptibly, but steadily as the coral builds the ocean reefs, and in the coming years will attract many thousands to drink of its medicinal waters and find health and pleasure in the picturesque valley, mountain-circled and coursed by crystal streams.

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