A thank-you to...
Britt Brjesson
Birgitta Esseen
Cecilia af Jochnick
Gunilla Larsson
Gunilla Lindberg
Anna-Lena Lundberg
Herdis Molinder
Mona Westerberg
And also to all of the models and their parents who have shot pictures with us in Tegnrlunden and Vasaparken in Stockholm, at Rsundavgen in Solna, and in Nice, France.
Copyright 2022 by Paula Hammerskog and Eva Wincent
Originally published as Sticks Smtt 2011 by Pamela Hammerskog and Eva Wincent by Ica Bokfrlag, Forma Books AB, Sweden.
First Skyhorse edition published in 2012 under the title Knitting for Kids .
All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018.
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Photographer: Rikard Westman
Graphic design: Tina Feldreich Danielsson
Layout: Anders Wahlberg
Visit our website at www.skyhorsepublishing.com.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.
Print ISBN: 978-1-5107-7138-3
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-5107-7346-2
Printed in China
Contents
024 months
210 years
Foreword
In our opinion there are many aspects that distinguish knitting clothes for children from knitting for adults.
The first and most important is that all childrens clothes we make are knitted with yarn of very high quality. Nothing can be itchy and it all needs to be machine washable and sturdy; children should not have to worry about taking special care of their knitted clothes.
Many will come to the exact opposite conclusion when it comes to choosing yarn. Since children dirty their clothes or easily get them hooked on thingsand also grow out of their clothes so quickly they barely get to use thempeople tend to buy cheaper yarn, which is hard and loses its shape after washing. But then we wonder why children refuse to use their knitted clothing...
If there is one kind of knitting we should put both money and effort into, it is clothes for children. Soft, strong, and pretty childrens clothes are amazingly useful. Furthermore, they can be passed down through generations when made of high-quality yarn and with good care.
One area that often proves challenging when it comes to childrens clothes is the sizing. For this book, we have chosen to size according to age, which is the most common way of sizing knitted childrens clothes; however, we are well aware that two-year-olds come in many different sizes. Therefore, we have also provided measurements for the clothes so that you can make adjustments based on the specific child.
The gauge is always very important when you knit, but it is especially important here. If you knit even just a tad bit tighter than the given gauge, the garment will end up smaller, and since the clothes are small to begin with this can make a significant difference. When knitting clothes for adults small deviations may not matter as much. That will not work here. You should therefore make a habit of always knitting a small swatch before you begin.
Paula Hammerskog & Eva Wincent
024 months
The baby set
Scarf, hat, mittens, and socks knitted in one multicolored yarn are both fun to knit and to wear. The set may also be knitted in a single color for a more classic feel.
SIZES
36 (69 months)
MATERIALS
Yarn: 2 yarn cones of wool yarn (hosiery yarn striped in colors, which is about 210 m/ 50 g / 1.7 oz.)
Needles: 3 mm / sz 3 and double-pointed needles 3 mm, sz 3
GAUGE
28 st and 38 rows = 4x6 inches / 10x10 cm stockinette on 4 mm / sz 6 needle
Scarf (one size)
Cast on 15 st on 3 mm / sz 3 needle, knit 5 rows.
Continue onto stockinet stitch, except the three outer stitches on each side that you garter stitch. At the same time increase one st on each side on each row until you have 39 stitches total. Knit garter 28 rows.
Decrease 1 st on each row, within the edge stitch, 7 times = 25 stitches.
Knit ribs, k1p1, k1, p1, 1.5 inches / 4 cm, move onto an extra needle, fasten off.
Pick up 25 new stitches over the first rib and knit ribs, k1p1, for 1.5 inches / 4 cm.
Purl these stitches together with the saved stitches so that a tunnel appears.
Increase 12 stitches evenly distributed over the next row = 37 stitches. Stockinet stitch with 3 edge stitches the same way you did earlier for 10 inches / 25 cm.
Decrease 12 stitches evenly distributed over the next row.
Knit 1.5 inches / 4 cm of rib knit.
Finish like you did with the first half but decrease within the edge stitch instead of increasing. Bind off.
Mittens (one size)
Cast on 38 stitches, garter knit 3 rows. Continue onto rib knitting and knit k1p1, knit one purl one, until the work measures 2.5 inches / 6 cm.
Increase 1 st on each side and stockinet stitch to 2.5 inches / 6 cm or wanted length.
Decrease: *k6, k2 tog; repeat from * the rest of the row.
Continue to decrease on every other row with one st less between the joining of the stitches until you are left with 10 stitches. Fasten off, pull the tie through the stitch, and fasten. Sew the edge together. Make a twisted string and thread it through the middle row of the rib knit. Tie a bow. You may also make a longer twisted string that may be fastened on each side.
HAT
Cast on 109 (121) stitches.
Garter knit 5 rows. Continue onto stockinet stitch and start increasing and decreasing the following way: Knit 1 st, increase 1 st, 17 (19) stockinet stitch, knit 3 stitches together, 18 (20) stitches stockinet stitch, increase 1 st, knit 1 st, increase 1 st, 13 (15) stockinet stitch, knit 3 stitches together, 13 (15) stockinet stitch, increase 1 st, knit 1 st, increase 1 st, 18 (19) stockinet stitch, knit 3 stitches together, 17 (19) stockinet stitch, increase 1 st, knit 1 st.
Continue to increase and decrease on every other row another 11 (13) times, quit on the wrong side.
Next row (garter knit): Knit 18 (20) stitches, 3 stitches together, knit 32 (36) stitches, 3 stitches together, knit 32 (36) stitches, 3 stitches together, knit 18 (20) stitches. Continue to decrease on every other row until you are left with 25 stitches. Note: There will be 1 st less between the first and last decrease and 2 stitches between the middle decreases.
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