Ben Marcus - The Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginning and Amateur Surfers
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- Book:The Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginning and Amateur Surfers
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The Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginning and Amateur Surfers: summary, description and annotation
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Whether youre a beginner trying to get started or an experienced surfer looking to take it to the next level, The Surfing Handbook gives you the tips you need to maximize your performance on the water, with guidance on training and conditioning, technique and style, safety and etiquette, and gear. Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background historyas well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and teachersmaking this an informative and entertaining guide that will help you to master the waves.
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MASTERING THE WAVES for Beginning and Amateur Surfers
+ TIPS from the PROS!
BY BEN MARCUS
Photographs by Kara Kanter
Acknowledgments:
My thanks to Jefferson Zuma Jay Wagner, Carla Rowland, Cory Bluemling, Rochelle Ballard, Lucia Griggi, Brie Gabrielle, Joe Dalsanto, and Patricia Dwyer, who authored the Wetsuit Styles section and the Wetsuit Glossary sidebar. And of course to King Neptune for providing the waves.
First published in 2010 by MVP Books, an imprint of MBI Publishing Company, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA
Copyright 2010 by Ben Marcus
All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher.
The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee on the part of the author or Publisher, who also disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details.
We recognize, further, that some words, model names, and designations mentioned herein are the property of the trademark holder. We use them for identification purposes only. This is not an official publication.
MVP Books titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details write to Special Sales Manager at MBI Publishing Company, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.
To find out more about our books, visit us online at www.voyageurpress.com.
ISBN-13: 978-0-7603-3692-2
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Digital Edition: 9781-6-1060-099-6
Hardcover Edition: 978-0-7603-3692-2
Marcus, Ben, 1960
The surfing handbook : mastering the waves for beginning and amateur surfers / by Ben Marcus ; photographs by Kara Kanter.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-7603-3692-2 (sb : alk. paper)
1. Surfing--Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.
GV839.5.M38 2010
797.32--dc22
2009045901
Editor: Michael Dregni
Design Manager: Katie Sonmor
Layout by: Erin Fahringer
Designed by: Sandra Salimony
Printed in China
Table of Contents
Why We Surf: A Magnificent Obsession
REMEMBER THE 1991 HOLLYWOOD FILM POINT BREAK, when Keanu Reeves goes into the oceanside surf shop to buy a beginner surfboard and meets the surfer grommet running the store? The kid is maybe 13, his skin tanned to a golden hue, his hair bleached blond by the sun.
Waves have as many moods and personalities as people, and one of the adventures of surfing is getting to know them all. Epic Stock/Shutterstock.
The author as a young grommet with his first surfboard, circa 1973. Photo by Mom.
A Hawaiian lei awaits on the shore. Bonita R. Cheshier
Hawaiian surfriders as depicted in 1878 by missionary Reverend J. G. Wood in his expos of The Uncivilized Races of Man in All Countries of the World. Even way back then, those waveriders looked happy.
A grommet is a young surfer. Grommet is not generally a slam; the term is often used about hot young surfers. The shortened version is grom or grem, which derives from gremlin.
A surfboard shaper is a surfboard maker who planes and sands a board to the desired shape a job requiring incredible skill, experience, and patience.
And hes handing out life advice. Reeves plays an FBI special agent named Johnny Utah who wants to learn to surf as a cover to infiltrate a suspected gang of surfing bank robbers. The surf shop grom tells him, Surfings the source, man. It will change your lifeswear to God.
That scene might have been a tad bit corny, but the grommet had a point. Surfing is a journey of a thousand adventures that begins with a single step into the ocean.
I began surfing when I was that grommets age, about 13, in 1973. I grew up in Santa Cruz, Californiaone of the surfing worlds several ground zeroes. My first surfboard was made in the 1970s by shaper Doug Haut at a time when surfboards were undergoing a transition from longboards to short. There was a lot of experimentation at the time, which lead to some weird boards. My first board, in retrospect, was a little weird.
But I loved that surfboard, and I carried it to the beach, almost every day, walking from Seventh Avenue to Cowells Beach, a distance of some 2 miles (4 kilometers). I strolled with my board along the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, down onto the sand, under the pier, and then out into the Pacific Ocean, where I spent hour after hour, learning how to surf at one of the best beginner spots in California and the world.
I was a bit of a lost boy then, the child of a divorce that came when I was just entering my teens and needing the guidance that all kids that age need. After the divorce, it was cool that we had moved from the Santa Clara Valley to Santa Cruz, and learning to surf was fun and exciting and challenging. But the children of divorce are always a little shook up and lonely. I have since seen a pattern in a lot of surfers including a lot of great surfers, from Miki Dora to Kelly Slaterwho turned to the ocean after their families fell apart.
Surfing, then. Synchronized swimming starlet Esther Williams styles as a surfer girl, circa 1940s.
Surfing, now. If its a life of adventure you want, surfing will give you a lifetime of adventure. You can surf it all, but you will never have surfed it all. Lucia Griggi
Others surf because they fall in love with the ocean and with how paddling makes your back and arm muscles feel. Surfing has a lot to love, from sunrise to sunset.
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