Ben Marcus - Women who surf: charging waves with the worlds best

Ben Marcus served as editor of Surfer magazine for ten years, where he wrote the first story on Mavericks, inaugurated the Surfer Magazine Surf Video Awards, and oversaw exciting years in the evolution of surfing. After leaving Surfer, Ben took to the road as a wandering writer and worked on many books covering a variety of topics. Ben has also done extensive writing for magazines and newspapers: the LA Times, LA Weekly, Malibu Magazine, Mens Journal, Outside, Fly Fish Journal, Standup Journal, The Surfers Journal, and others. Ben currently lives in Hawaii on a 15-meter utility boat in Kewalo Basin Harbor.

Lucia Griggi is a world-traveling photographer specializing in the surfing, skateboarding, and outdoor adventure world. Lucia focuses on lifestyle and adventure for editorial and advertising clients. Some of her clients include National Geographic, ESPN, Red Bull, Sri Lankan Airlines, BBC, Land Rover, Patagonia, and Jeep. In her photography, Lucia mixes her passions for travel, people, and adventure. Lucias work has been internationally recognized and awarded by National Geographic, PDN, Windland Smith Rice International Awards, Black and White photography, and the Masters Cup. When not shooting, Lucia can be found surfing the Californian coastline or visiting family back home in England. Lucia has collaborated with Ben Marcus on Skateboard: The Good, the Rad and the Gnarly; 365 Surfboards; and The Art of Stand Up Paddling.

Okay, its 13:21 p.m. Hawaiian time on Saturday, December 17 and this book is almost pauthat means done in Hawaiian. I am upstairs at Kekoa Collective in Ward Center, across from my boat in Kewalo Basin. I just finished proofing this book on Dewey Doans big iMacbecause my Chromebook doesnt like Word (and neither do I really. Google Docs are the way to go). I would like to thank Dewey for the use of the office, and the computer, and the peace and quiet, and the chocolate-covered macadamia nuts.

This book is almost pau and thats a good feeling. There are a lot of people to thank.

Should I do that back to front, front to back or off the top of my head, stream-of-consciousness style?

Going back to front, thanks to Dewey Doan and his staff at Kekoa Collective. Thanks to Meredith Dias, Paulette Baker, David Legere, Sheryl Kober, Neil Cotterill, Melissa Evarts, and anyone else at Falcon Publishing involved in getting this book proofed, laid out, and done.

Of course, thanks to all of the women involved. All 17 of the women here cooperated in the writing and editing of their profiles. I am very, very careful when it comes to laying down peoples lives, so thanks to all 17 of the women, but also Becky and Tom Hamilton for help with Bethanys profile and also Alana Blanchards. Tami Gabeira for help with Maya Gabeiras profile, and also Carlos Burle and Rosaldo Cavalcanti and others who know Mayas story.

Thanks to Rochelle Ballard, Wrenna Delgado, Keala Kennelly, Andrea Moller, Leah Dawson, Mercedes Maidana, Easkey Britton, Bianca Valenti, Paige Alms, and Alison Teal for looking over their copy and making sure it was all accurate.

Special thanks to Martin Fitzgibbons for his help with Sallys profile. Very appreciated.

Also thanks to Peter Mel, Tara Mel, Shaun Tomson, and Nick Carroll for chiming in on Rosy Hodge, and also to Rosy for answering all those pesky emails. Shes the busiest gal in show business.

Many thanks to Janet Macpherson for all she has done for a poor writer over the years. Hopefully her profile in this book is some kind of payback. Also thanks to Rachelle Hruska and Sean Macpherson for the family photos. And Jonette Jonie Mead in New Zealand for that Kiwi shot.

Thanks to Pauline Ado and David Bianic for their help with Paulines profile.

A big thank you to the athletes who I interviewed that didnt make it into the book. My apologies, but theres always the second edition!

Thanks to Tonya Bickerton Watson, Chuck Gallagher (1934-2016), Duncan Norris, Jeff Nighswonger, Vanessa Siravo, Libby Defries, Cameron and Karen Farrer, and everyone else I forced the profiles on, and asked them to read them and give feedback.

Apologies to Lucia Griggi for blowing my top more than a few times on this book, and thanks to her for her photos and help with finding others. And that also goes for Sachi Cunningham, Elizabeth Pepin-Silva, Erik Aeder, Shannon Marie-Quirk, Fred Pompermayer, Martin Fitzgibbons, Tim McKenna, Sarah Lee, Mike Coots, Tony Heff, Dylan Gordon, Gary Miata, Red Bull, Ricardo Estevez, Anna Riedel, Bidu, Mike Bresnen, Jeff Munson, Jelle Mul, Waves of Freedom, Fitzgibbon International, and all of the photographers who contributed to this book.

I ran an Indiegogo to help raise money for the photo budget on this book, so thanks to Krickie McCooey, Dewey Doan (again), Gregg Brilliant, Rob Oliveros, Natasha Z, Cameron Farrer, R.J. Couture, Alexander Haro, Rachel Pettit, and Sarah Hauser for kicking in and helping to make this book POP!

Matt Luttrell is headed this way with $50 for another article I did. Thanks to him for his financial help.

Who am I leaving out of this? Who am I not thanking? Most likely, lots of people.

Thanks to L and L Hawaiian BBQ for letting me sit there hour after hour and work on this, and also Mike and Colleen at Snappers Bar in Waikiki (sorry I was late yesterday) and all the bartenders and servers who kept me floating on club soda. This book took a loooooooong time to get done.

Thanks to the Hawaiian Islands, and of course, thanks to King Neptune for providing the waves you see in this book.

And apologies to everyone I am forgetting.

Mahalo to Tonya Bickerton Watson for her kokua, attention to detail, and speed and efficacy.

All the quotes about getting injured at Teahupoo come from Keala Kennelly: 'It Swallowed Me Whole, Kauaian charger talks massive Teahupoo tube, an interview with Janna Irons, posted July 30, 2015: surfermag.com/features/keala-kennelly-it-swallowed-me-whole/#yPsQThLXjmjJqxeV.97.

Lessa, Christina. Women Who Win. Milford, CT: Universe Publishing Company, October 15, 1998.

Matt Warshaws quote about Rochelle Ballard from The Encyclopedia of Surfing: encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/ballard-rochelle.

Gina Mackins 2000 quote from Rochelle Ballard in Matt Warshaws Encyclopedia of Surfing: encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/ballard-rochelle.

Rochelle Ballards injury during the shooting of Blue Crush from The Price of Gas by Ben Marcus in The Surfers Journal, volume 12(2): surfersjournal.com/product/the-price-of-gas.

Kelly Slaters Instagram quote about Bethany from @kellyslater.

Hamilton, Bethany, and Rick Bundschuh, with Sheryl Berk. Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith Family and Fighting to Get Back on the Board. New York: MTV Books; reprint edition, June 26, 2012.

Matt Warshaws quotes about Bethany from The Encyclopedia of Surfing: encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/hamilton-bethany.

Bethanys quote on faith from her website: bethanyhamilton.com/faith.

Quote on NSSA Nationals 2004 from 2004 NSSA Nationals Wrap Up on surfermag.com, posted July 22, 2010: surfermag.com/features/o4nssanat/#OXEHHyWKzgiza58X.99.

Bethany Does It! quote from 2005 NSSA National Championships Results: nssa.org/newsmanager/templates/NSSAArticle.aspx?articleid=142&zoneid=8.

Timeline of Bethanys life from bethanyhamilton.com/category/timeline.

Mayas quotes from Red Bulls documentary Watch Maya Gabeira on the Long Road Back to Nazar: redbull.com/us/en/surfing/stories/1331795089375/maya-gabeira-return-to-nazare-red-bull-tv-documentary.