Richard Barrett - Cycling Lon Las Cymru: 250 miles through the heart of Wales on traffic-free paths and quiet roads

About the Author

After years of road running and mountaineering had wreaked havoc with his knees, Richard Barrett returned to long-distance cycling in his fifties when he bought himself a classic British-made touring bike. Now in his sixties, he rides a hand-made bike from one of the great British frame makers that have appeared in recent years. Combined with walking, cycling allows him to continue his love affair with the more mountainous parts of the UK which he first visited as a teenager.

He spent his career in marketing in a number of multinational organisations in the UK and abroad, but he now lives in West Cheshire and rides two or three times a week with groups on both sides of the border.

Cycling in the Hebrides

Cycling in the Lake District

The Hebridean Way

Walking on Harris and Lewis

CYCLING LN LAS CYMRU

250 MILES THROUGH THE HEART OF WALES ON TRAFFIC-FREE PATHS AND QUIET ROADS

by Richard Barrett

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk

Richard Barrett 2018

First edition 2018

ISBN: 978 1 85284 987 0

Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com

Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI

Dedication

This book is dedicated to those stalwarts who lobby for better facilities for cyclists and give up their time to maintain Sustrans routes in their neighbourhood.

Acknowledgements

My thanks to Jonathan and Joe Williams of Cicerone for commissioning this book and in so doing introducing me to wonderful bits of the country I had never previously visited. I should also like to thank Sian, Verity, Stephanie and the production team, who once again made the process such a pleasure.

Updates to this Guide

While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/987/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL.

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Front cover: Parked up at my preferred ending South Stack Lighthouse (Stage 5)

The Brecon Beacons from the north (Stage 1)

Ornate gate in Llansantffraed-Cwmdeuddwr at the start of the Elan Valley cycleway which is briefly shared by Ln Las Cymru (Stage 2)

INTRODUCTION

Looking north along Talybont Reservoir (Stage 1)

Ln Las Cymru runs from Cardiff or Chepstow to Holyhead, passing through the heart of Wales. Translating loosely as Wales Green Lane, it is the preeminent cycle route in Wales, passing through lush countryside, and following quiet lanes and former railway lines.

The route from Cardiff is just over 250 miles (400km) or, from the alternative start in Chepstow, it is just over 240 miles (390km). It passes through the Brecon Beacons National Park and Snowdonia National Park and over the Black Mountains, the Brecon Beacons, and the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales taking in some of the most stunning and diverse landscapes in the British Isles. Crossing the mountains requires a good level of fitness but should not trouble the average rider on an average bike as the gradients are mostly gentle. The panoramic views from the top of the Gospel Pass, Bryn Y Fedwen and Moel Goedog make the climbs worth the effort too. The scenery on the flatter sections is equally stunning, especially up Wye Valley and along the quiet lanes on Anglesey.

Travelling through such wonderful countryside by bike is hugely satisfying both for those who want to cover the miles quickly and those preferring a more leisurely pace to watch wildlife and explore attractions along the way. There are plenty of pretty villages and interesting towns where you can top up the energy levels in local cafs and interesting shops where you can replenish supplies. These towns also provide a good choice of overnight accommodation and places for dinner, although you may need to leave the route to find exactly what youre looking for. Add to that an impressive collection of castles, industrial archaeology, churches, chapels and prehistoric sites along the route and the red kites and common buzzards that are frequently soaring overhead and you have a ride that you will remember for a very long time.

The magnificent red kite is a common site in the Cambrian Mountains (Image authorised for common usage)

The cycle charity, Sustrans, designed the route to take in minor roads and avoid busy parts of towns and cities by using traffic-free paths along rivers and dismantled railways. From Cardiff, it follows the Taff Trail to Brecon with the first 34 miles being entirely traffic-free before climbing the gap between the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains. The route from the alternative start at Chepstow is less urban, passing through the market towns of Usk and Abergavenny and over the magnificent Gospel Pass before dropping down to the literary town of Hay-on-Wye.