DISHING UP OREGON
DISHING UP OREGON
145 RECIPES THAT CELEBRATE FARM-TO-TABLE FLAVORS
ASHLEY GARTLAND
Photography by John Valls
The mission of Storey Publishing is to serve our customers by
publishing practical information that encourages
personal independence in harmony with the environment.
Edited by Margaret Sutherland and Lisa H. Hiley
Art direction and book design by Cynthia N. McFarland,
based on a design by Tom Morgan of Blue Design
Photography by John Valls
Map by David Cain
Indexed by Nancy D. Wood
2011 by Ashley Gartland
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any meanselectronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwithout written permission from the publisher.
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA
Gartland, Ashley.
Dishing up Oregon / by Ashley Gartland.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-60342-566-7 (pbk.)
1. Cooking, AmericanPacific Northwest style. 2. CookingOregon.
3. Farm produceOregon. 4. Cookbooks. I. Title.
TX715.2.P32G374 2011
641.59795dc23
2011020051
For my grandmother, Carmen,
and my mother, Shirleen,
who nurtured my love of good food
and the written word.
And for Jake,
who makes me believe
that all things are possible.
contents
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
THIS BOOK WOULD NOT have been possible without the dedication of the many contributors, suppliers, recipe testers, and colleagues who played a part in its creation.
First and foremost, my thanks go to the chefs, farmers, and food and beverage artisans whose support of Dishing Up Oregon made this book possible. They graciously shared recipes from their kitchens and willingly opened their doors when I came calling to study the ways theyve shaped Oregons food scene. No matter how busy they were in the field or at the stove, they never turned me away and for that I am forever grateful.
I am also indebted to John and Theresa Valls, whose hard work and stunning photography brought the pages of this book to life. John, your ability to capture the life of an artisan or the beauty of a dish in a single shot left me awestruck every time.
I owe a big thanks to the cast of characters who helped me turn a tiny idea into a tangible cookbook. Thank you to the entire team at Storey Publishing, particularly Margaret Sutherland, who took a chance on this project, and to Lisa Hiley, who saw it through to the finish with great care. Thank you also to Cindy McFarland for the beautiful design and Amy Greeman and Alee Marsh for helping get the word out about the book.
Thank you to my team of recipe testers and tasters whose honest feedback had a hand in shaping these recipes and to friends and colleagues who answered culinary questions when a recipe had me stumped. Special thanks go to Diane Morgan, who offered her mentorship from the very start of this project, and to Amber Lindros, a dedicated proofreader and enthusiastic recipe taster to boot.
My deepest thanks go to my family for offering their endless encouragement from the beginning of this project. Thank you for listening to my ideas, for sampling recipes, and for offering your opinions on each dish whether they were the ones I wanted to hear or not. Finally and most important, I must thank my husband, Jake, whose appetite, discerning palate, and unfailing support played a vital part in every page of this book.
FOREWORD
AN OREGON LOVE AFFAIR
Vitaly Paley of Paleys Place Bistro and Bar
IN THE EARLY NINETIES, my wife and I were fortunate to work at a restaurant in a small French village. One day a beautiful basket of morel mushrooms was delivered to our kitchen. They looked so magical and smelled so fragrant I took a closer look. I thought certainly they were gathered nearby, the French being the original locavores and staunch guardians of traditions. To my surprise they came from Oregon. Incroyable! Impossible! How could it be? In that inspired instant, my love affair with Oregons wonderful bounty began.
Armed with that French stamp of approval, we left our tiny New York City apartment and set out on a grand adventure down the Oregon Trail where more connections to France awaited us: the cities of The Dalles and La Grande, the Deschutes River, and the Nez Perce people of eastern Oregon. Some believe that the very name of the state comes from the French word ouragan, or hurricane.
Could it be that the early French settlers stayed here because the rolling hills of the Willamette Valley reminded them of Burgundy, where grapes would thrive, or that the lush Cascades, as grandiose as the Alps, were practically carpeted with wild mushrooms? Or was it the cold, stormy Pacific Ocean, brimming with marine life like the North Atlantic? Did they find their Promised Land?
Yet Oregon offers so much more. The mighty Columbia River slices a gorge through the Cascades, gifting us with stunning rainbows and spawning life before tracing its majestic path to the ocean. The Hood River Valley is filled with fruit and hazelnut orchards and serene pastures dotted with sheep. Central Oregons high dessert offers endless views, pastel mountains, and crystal clear lakes. The eastern part of the state, the true Wild West with its pristine environment and rich soil, has the open spaces to grow the best potatoes and wheat. In the south, the intoxicating aromas of ripe summer berries make you feel as though you are standing inside the sweetest jar of jam. The grandeur of Oregon is so breathtaking and the scenery so deeply moving that all of us who live here truly believe we have found our Promised Land.
I love cooking in Oregon. There are no food traditions to follow, no rules on how to cook, just great ingredients. Oysters, Dungeness crab, and salmon; morels, chanterelles, and truffles; elk, rabbit, and lambthese are just a few of my favorites. We are inventing a unique Oregon style and are having a blast doing it.
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