Ludwig Leichhardt - Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia

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JOURNAL OF AN OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA:
FROM MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON,
A DISTANCE OF UPWARDS OF 3000 MILES, DURING THE YEARS 1844-1845

by

LUDWIG LEICHHARDT (1813-1848)

---

"Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann
Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"
GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.

* * * * *

To
WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol;
To
ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY
And to
THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author

---

Lagoon near South Alligator River

PREFACE

In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.

To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.

From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.

LUDWIG LEICHIHARDT.
SYDNEY,
September 29th, 1846.

---

CONTENTS

LEAVE THE LAST STATION
FOSSIL REMAINS
DARLING DOWNS
ENTER THE WILDERNESS
WATERLOO PLAINS
THE CONDAMINE
HEAVY RAINS
CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT
MURPHY AND CALEB LOST
KENT'S LAGOON
COAL
MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB
MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES
NATIVE TOMB
THE DAWSON
VERVAIN PLAINS
GILBERT'S RANGE
LYND'S RANGE
ROBINSON'S CREEK
MURPHY'S LAKE
MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY
EXPEDITION RANGE
MOUNT NICHOLSON
ALDIS'S PEAK
THE BOYD.

RUINED CASTLE CREEK
ZAMIA CREEK
BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED
NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE
CHRISTMAS RANGES
BROWN'S LAGOONS
THUNDER-STORMS
ALBINIA DOWNS
COMET CREEK
NATIVE CAMP.

SWARMS OF COCKATOOS
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED
NATIVE FAMILY
THE MACKENZIE
COAL
NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM
MOUNT STEWART
BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP
FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY
NEUMAN'S CREEK
ROPER'S PEAK
CALVERT'S PEAK
GILBERT'S DOME
GREAT WANT OF WATER.

DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE
PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN
HUGHS'S CREEK
TOMBSTONE CREEK
CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY
THE ISAACS
NATIVE WOMEN
COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE
GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER
CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES
BROWN FOLLOWS HIM
BOTH RETURN PENITENT
VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER
SKULL OF NATIVE
FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

HEADS OF THE ISAACS
THE SUTTOR
FLINT-ROCK
INDICATIONS OF WATER
DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US
EASTER SUNDAY
ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN
NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN
A BARTER WITH THEM
MOUNT M'CONNEL.

THE BURDEKIN
TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS
THACKER'S RANGE
WILD FIGS
GEOLOGICAL REMARKS
THE CLARKE
THE PERRY.

BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL
NIGHT WATCH
ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY
MOUNT LANG
STREAMS OF LAVA
A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN
NATIVE TRIBE
MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT
WHITSUNDAY
BIG ANT HILL CREEK
DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS
FRIENDLY NATIVES
SEPARATION CREEK
THE LYND
PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS
NATIVE CAMP
SALT EXHAUSTED.

THE STARRY HEAVENS
SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE
SAWFISH
TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES
THE MITCHELL
MURPHY'S PONY POISONED
GREEN TREE-ANT
NEW BEVERAGE
CROCODILE
AUDACITY OF KITES
NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY
THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM
MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA
NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS
THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA
THE STAATEN
A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP
THE VAN DIEMEN
THE GILBERT
SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS
CARON RIVER
FRIENDLY NATIVES
THE YAPPAR
MR. CALVERT RECOVERED
MODE OF ENCAMPMENT
SWARMS OF FLIES
ABUNDANCE OF SALT
NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES
NATIVE CARVING
AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED
THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER
NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU
BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT
NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING EMUS
BEAMES'S BROOK
THE NICHOLSON
RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT
SMITH'S CREEK
THE MARLOW.

HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS
FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP
TURNER'S CREEK
WENTWORTH'S CREEK
JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN
THE VAN ALPHEN
IMPORTANCE OF TEA
CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION
CHOICE OF A DOG
THE CALVERT
THE ABEL TASMAN
GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN
DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS
SEVEN EMU RIVER
CROCODILE
THE ROBINSON
SHOAL OF PORPOISES
NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD
MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT
WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES
SUCCEED IN DRESSING THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA
THE MACARTHUR
FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH CIRCUMCISED NATIVES
STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED
MEDICAL PROPERTY OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.

CAPE MARIA
OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL HISTORY
LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER
HABITS OF WATER BIRDS
NATIVE FISH TRAP
THE FOUR ARCHERS
THE WICKHAM
THE DOG DIES
IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE
THE ROPER
THREE HORSES DROWNED
OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL COLLECTION
MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES, CIRCUMCISED
HODGSON'S CREEK
THE WILTON
ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED
ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE
AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED
BOILS
BASALT AGAIN
INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.

INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE
DISTRESSING HEAT
A HORSE STAKED: IT DIES
MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES
MAGNIFICENT VALLEY
FRIENDLY NATIVES
SHOT EXHAUSTED
INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS
SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER
FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS
THEIR LANGUAGE
MIRAGE.

JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH
THEY ARE VERY FRIENDLY
ALLAMURR
DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY
EAST ALLIGATOR RIVER
CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE
IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY
NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT
NYUALL
BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG
NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US
MOUNT MORRIS BAY
RAFFLES BAY
LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND
BILL WHITE
ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON
VOYAGE TO SYDNEY.

LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT

THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL

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