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George Edward Mannering - With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps

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With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps
Author:
George Edward Mannering
Publisher:
Echo Library
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Books / Home and family
Year:
2020
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Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/withaxeropeinnew00mann

Transcribers Note

Changes made are noted at the

THE
NEW ZEALAND ALPS

PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON

[Wheeler & Son, Photo.

G. E. Mannering Mr. J. Dixon P. H. Johnson

CLIMBING PARTY ON THE TASMAN GLACIER

With Axe and Rope
IN
THE NEW ZEALAND ALPS

BY
GEORGE EDWARD MANNERING

MEMBER OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPINE CLUB
MEMBER OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALASIA
MEMBER OF THE PHILOSOPHICAL INSTITUTE OF CANTERBURY, N.Z.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
AND NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET

1891

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED
TO ALL LOVERS OF NATURE

PREFACE

This short work contains the story of five seasons climbing and exploring in the New Zealand Alps. Most of the material embodied in it has already appeared from time to time, in rather a different form, in the Christchurch (N.Z.) Weekly Press.

The author trusts that the publication of the same in book form, together with a map of the locality and a few photographic reproductions, will supply a want in the shape of a guide-book to the Alpine mountain district which is already beginning to be felt by tourists in New Zealand; and he hopes that the contents may not prove uninteresting to the general public, more especially to Swiss and Caucasian climbers, few of whom are perhaps aware of the extent and nature of the New Zealand Alpine chain.

The map is compiled by the New Zealand Government Survey Office from the work of Mr. T. N. Brodrick, Government Surveyor, and that of Dr. R. von Lendenfeld. The illustrations are from photographs by Messrs. Wheeler and Son. Their operator has in several mountain expeditions accompanied the author, who takes this opportunity of expressing his thanks to the New Zealand Government Survey Department, and to Messrs. Wheeler, for their kind assistance.

It will doubtless be said that the summit of Aorangi has not yet been attained: quite true. Like Mr. Green, the author and his friend were wise in time. Yet it is only a quibble to dispute the ascent of the mountain, for being on the ice-cap of Aorangi is like being on the topmost rung of a ladder, and yet not upon the projections above that step.

Christchurch, New Zealand :
April 13, 1891.

CONTENTS

Chapter I
INTRODUCTORY

PAGE

The New Zealand Alps and their glaciers

Chapter II
THE ROUTE TO THE MOUNT COOK DISTRICT

A short description of the route to the Mount Cook district, and of the topographical features of the Mueller, Hooker, and Tasman Valleys

Chapter III
FIRST ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

First impressionsSwaggingThe Hochstetter GlacierDefeatThe perils of river crossing

Chapter IV
SECOND ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

A flooded camp in the Tasman ValleyHard strugglesWe reach Greens bivouac

Chapter V
THIRD ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

Photography on the Tasman GlacierAttempt to scale Mount De la Bche

Chapter VI
ASCENT OF THE HOCHSTETTER DOME

Camp under De la BcheTwelve hours on snow and iceThe pangs of hunger

Chapter VII
FOURTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

We reach the Great Plateau at lastDefeat againThe crossing of the Ball Pass

Chapter VIII
FIRST EXPLORATION OF THE MURCHISON GLACIER

Hard swaggingErroneous mapsThe struggle for Starvation SaddleExhaustion and hungerReturn

Chapter IX
FIFTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

AvalanchesThe bivouac againFirst attempt repulsedSecond attemptThe Great PlateauThe Linda GlacierHard work step-cuttingThe terrible couloirsVictory at lastDescent by lantern-lightBack to civilisation

Chapter X
ON SOME OF THE PHENOMENA OF GLACIERS

The cause of glaciersFormation and structureMotionMoraines: Lateral, medial, and terminalSurface morainesCrevassesMoulinsGlacier tablesGlacier conesSurface torrentsAvalanchesCornices

Chapter XI
CANOEING ON THE NEW ZEALAND RIVERS

The WaimakaririThe enormous rainfallDescent of the Waitaki RiverThe Tasman branchLake PukakiLeaky canoesThe Pukaki RapidsThe Waitaki GorgeOut on the plains againSixty miles paddle to catch the trainHome once more

LEnvoi

Appendix

A Short Glossary of Technical Alpine Terms

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

CLIMBING PARTY ON THE TASMAN GLACIER
HOOKER VALLEY AND MOUNT SEFTON FROM GOVERNORS CAMP	To face page
AORANGI: MOUNT COOK AND THE HOOKER GLACIER
MOUNT TASMAN (11,475 FEET) AND HOCHSTETTER ICE-FALL
MOUNT COOK AND THE HERMITAGE
CROSSING THE HOOKER RIVER
AORANGI FROM THE BALL GLACIER
ICE CAVE, TASMAN GLACIER
MOUNT DE LA BCHE (10,021 FEET) FROM THE TASMAN GLACIER
PEAKS ON MALTE BRUN
THE TASMAN GLACIER
MOUNTAIN LILIES (Ranunculus Lyallii)
LOOKING ACROSS THE MURCHISON GLACIER
AORANGI FROM THE TASMAN GLACIER
THE MURCHISON GLACIER
AORANGI: THE HIGHEST PEAK
IN THE ICE-FALL OF THE ONSLOW GLACIER
THE SURFACE OF A GLACIER
MAP	At end

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY

The New Zealand Alps and their glaciers

It is unnecessary for me in these days of universal education and enlightenment to describe the geographical position of New Zealand, the Britain of the South, and the future playground of Australasia.

Everyone knows that New Zealand consists of three islands, situate between the 34th and 47th degrees of south latitude, off the south-east coast of Australia. Reference to almost any handbook of the colony will furnish every information regarding settlement, population, government, climate, and so on, and I do not propose to dwell longer than is necessary on any general matters of this nature.

It is advisable, however, to describe in as brief and concise a manner as possible the general physical features of a country containing such varieties of scenery and climate, more especially those of the South Island (or Middle Island as it is sometimes called), where the High Alps and their wonderful glaciers are situated.

Speaking generally, the highest mountains of New Zealand may be said to run in a north-easterly direction from the southernmost point of the South Island through the whole country, like a vast backbone, to the north-eastern point of the North Island.

The main formation of the mountains dates back to Jurassic times, so that the geological structure may be said to be one of great antiquity.

Volcanic action has long since ceased throughout the South Island; but there are many active volcanoes in the North, where a perfect wonderland of hot-springs, solfataras, and silica terraces exists.

As a whole, the country is heavily timberedmore thickly on the western parts, where the greater rainfall occurs. This is notably the case in the South Island, where the hot and moisture laden winds from tropical regions are deprived by the Alpine chain of their aqueous vapour.

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