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John William Clayton - The Sunny South

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DISTANT VIEW OF BARCELONA FROM A DRAWING BY THE AUTHOR THE SUNNY SOUTH AN - photo 1
DISTANT VIEW OF BARCELONA. FROM A DRAWING BY THE AUTHOR.
THE SUNNY SOUTH.
AN AUTUMN
IN SPAIN AND MAJORCA.
The Dragonera Rock, Majorca. From a Drawing by the Author.
BY
CAPTAIN J. W. CLAYTON, F.R.G.S.,
LATE 13 th HUSSARS.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1869.
The Right of Translation is reserved.
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THE SUNNY SOUTH.
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I INSCRIBE THIS BOOK
TO
ISABEL AND HAROLD,
IN THE HOPE THAT THESE PASSAGES IN THE TRAVEL-LIFE OF
THEIR FATHER MAY BE SOME DAY NOT WITHOUT
INTEREST TO THEM.
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CONTENTS.
FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.HAVRE DE GRCE. ROUEN.THE CATHEDRAL.INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.MOUNT ST CATHERINE.THE SEINE.NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.LISIEUX.STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON1
LE MANS.ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.THE LUXURY OF BATHING.CATHEDRAL OF ST. JULIEN.TOURS.POITIERS.ANGOULME.BORDEAUX.EN ROUTE FOR BAYONNE.A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.A LONELY REGION.HOTEL INTERIOR.INGENIOUS INVENTION.TABLE D'HTE16
THE CITADEL.BIARRITZ.HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.EN ROUTE FOR SPAIN.ST. JEAN DE LUZ.HENDAYE.THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.WINTER IN SPAIN.IRUN.CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.ST. SEBASTIAN.THE ALAMEDA PROMENADE.THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA34
BURGOS.THE FONDA DEL NORTE.THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.SCENES IN THE STREETS.THE CONVENT OF LA CARTUJA.TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.THE CASTLE.THE CID.THE CATHEDRAL.HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY57
AGAIN ON THE RAIL.VALLADOLID.THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.THE COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.CONVENT INTERIOR.CHAMBER OF HORRORS.COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.THE CATHEDRAL.SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.THE THEATRE.USE OF TOBACCO80
EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.GEOLOGICAL CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.A STATION IN THE WILDERNESS.AVILA.A FUNERAL.THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.THE ADUANEROS.MADRID.HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.PUERTA DEL SOL103
MADRID.GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.THE PICTURE-GALLERY.PASTIMES AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEOS.THE BATH AND TOILET.QUEEN ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.THE VIRGIN'S WARDROBE.THE ROYAL ARMERIA.REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO122
THE ESCORIAL.ITS PRECINCTS.SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE EDIFICE.MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.MELANCHOLY GUIDE.SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.ROYAL REMAINS.CHARLES V.PHILIP II.THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA142
A BULL-FIGHT.THE ARENA.THE SPECTATORS.PROCESSION.THE BULL.APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.NIMBLE FOOTMEN.THE COMBAT.SCENE OF HORROR.THE BANDERILLEROS.THE ESPADA.DEATH OF THE BULL158
TOLEDO.VIEW OF THE CITY.THE CATHEDRAL.PROCESS OF SMOKE-DRYING.ALMANZA.VALENCIA.THE FONDA DE MADRID.A BENEVOLENT DOCTOR.SPANISH MULETEERS.HOW CONTROVERSIES ARE SETTLED171
VOYAGE TO THE BALEARES.MAJORCAPALMA DE MALLORCA.OUR APPREHENSION.FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.HISTORICAL NOTICES.DON JAYME.THE RAMBLA.COSTUME.LANGUAGE.CLIMATE.CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE196
THE VALE OF SOLLER.INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.SUPERSTITION OF THE PEASANTRY.PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.THE ROAD.GUARDIA CIVIL.OBLIGING LANDLADY.BRIDGE OF LA M.BATTLE WITH THE TURKS219
THE PORT OF SOLLER.CONVENT OF LLUCH.A LEGEND OF THE MONASTERY.CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.REMAINS OF KING JAYME II.ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.MINORCA.ITS CONNECTION WITH ENGLISH HISTORY237
HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.BULL-FIGHTS.PROVISION FOR THE SPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT AND A BULL.EXPEDITION TO THE CAVES OF ART249
CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.THE MEDICAL PROFESSION IN SPAIN.THE ART OF PACKING.NIGHT SIGNALS.EL GRAO.CHASSE AUX CALEONS ROUGES.VALENCIA.DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.THE CATHEDRAL267
DEPARTURE FROM VALENCIA.A RAILWAY JOURNEY.DIFFICULTIES TO WHICH TRAVELLERS ARE EXPOSED.TARRAGONA.SKETCHES OF ITS HISTORY.ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA281
BARCELONA.HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.CASTLE OF MONJUICH.THE CATHEDRAL.THE GRAND OPERA.THE PLAZA DE TOROS.THE LITTLE ROPE-WALKER.MONTSERRAT295
ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.THE POPULATION.A FIESTA.SEARCH FOR AN HOTEL.THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.LAST SIEGE OF GERONA.THE CATHEDRAL.A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN313

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CHAPTER I.
FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.HAVRE DE GRCE.ROUEN.THE CATHEDRAL.INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.MOUNT ST. CATHERINE.THE SEINE.NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.LISIEUX.STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON.
IT was almost at the last moment when, after having bid farewell to all our friends, we found ourselves on board the steamer that was to take us from England on an autumn tour to the sunny south. There was great noise and bustle on deck; the friends of the departing passengers had all left the ship, and in a few minutes the anchor was weighed.
It was yet early morning, and the sun was rising with great brilliance in the east; but his appearance was only momentary, for while we were rejoicing in the prospect of a beautiful sunlit day, he suddenly withdrew from our sight, and hid his glorious visage behind a thick cloud. So unexpected was his obscuration, that we could almost have fancied he had covered his face with a veil to conceal from his sight a scene of unexampled squalor and misery that lay heaped upon the fore-deck. A band of fifty followers of the unfortunate Maximilian of Mexico, who had landed in England a day or two before, were now being wafted by a friendly breeze, not the less welcome that it came so late, towards their homes, with simply nothing left to them but their lives.
Without other clothing than a few parti-coloured rags, which but a short time back had composed the gay panoply of war, clinging to their festering bodies, without that glory which, in the lack of every other reward, is often sufficient to compensate soldiers for having left the happy hearths of their homes and the loving eyes of their kindred, these sons of fair-haired Austria were slowly returning, feeble in body and broken down in spirit, to their fatherland, carrying with them the mortifying recollection of a shameful defeat at the hands of a distant, half-barbarous race whom they had despised, and with the destruction of health for life, the loss of limbs, and the blighting of hopes which they had once nourished. Such were the subjects, such the colours, which composed this little illustrative picture of the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. Those young soldiers, all of whom were either suffering from wounds or prostrated by sickness, were standing on the deck in haggard groups, chatting about their native place, about the home of their youth, or about the plans which they intended to carry out when they arrived there. A few were groaning with pain, some of them suffering so severely as to be almost insensible to what was passing around them. Others who were in a comparatively sound condition were laughing and dancing, forgetting with the light spirit of soldiers both what they themselves had endured, and the anguish of their suffering comrades. The garb of all was in the most miserable and tattered condition, showing how soon the gaudy uniform of the soldier is tarnished in the tug of actual war. Falstaff's wretched band of followers did not exhibit more diversity in the colour and fashion of their habiliments than did these followers of an imperial prince.
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