Mrs. Aria (Eliza Davis) - Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and Theatrical

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COSTUME
FANCIFUL, HISTORICAL, AND THEATRICAL

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Reproduced by special permission

COQUELIN, AS CYRANO DE BERGERAC, FROM A WATER COLOUR DRAWING BY PERCY ANDERSON.

(Reproduced by special permission.)

[]

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COSTUME: FANCIFUL,
HISTORICAL
AND THEATRICAL

COMPILED BY Mrs. ARIA
ILLUSTRATED BY PERCY ANDERSON

London

MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited

NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1906

All rights reserved

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INTRODUCTORY NOTE

"It is merely a question of head," said Percy Anderson to me one day, whilst we were discussing some easy method of solving a problem in fancy dress.

And he continued:

"Indeed, I would say that, broadly speaking, of all costume. The fashion of any period is distinguished primarily by the way its wearer dresses her hair."

"And chooses her sleeves," I suggested, and received his approval.

We agreed then that we were both most keenly interested in dress, regarding it as one of the fine and essential arts; and we decided that we would try to preach its best doctrines and traditions to the world at large, while we did not ignore the fact that many more worthy had previously enriched literature with the same object. Realising this most acutely, it came to pass that I found myself searching libraries for information which could serve to point my moral, while Mr. Anderson consented to adorn my tale and help me in my endeavour to present concisely, and with as little ceremony and as much simplicity as possible, the main facts of the fashions which have obtained through the centuries.

A few practical details and suggestions are included in the hope that they may obviate some difficulties of those who fret their hour on the stage or at the fancy-dress ball, while, for the benefit of the next generation, I have devoted a small space to personal reminiscences of theatrical heroes and heroines, and to some facts of theatrical dress, as it has been expressed in classic and popular dramas produced by the leading actors and actresses of our time.

E. ARIA.

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CONTENTS

PAGE
In Classic Times	1
In Early Medival Times	10
In the Thirteenth Century	19
In the Fourteenth Century	28
In the Fifteenth Century	37
In the Sixteenth Century	49
In the Seventeenth Century	66
In the Eighteenth Century	78
In the Nineteenth Century	92
Of British Peasants	106
Of some Foreign Peasants	115
Of some Foreign Peasants (continued)	130
Of Oriental Dress	147
Of Oriental Dress (continued)	163
Of Fancy Dress	178
Of Dominoes and Masks	190
Of Materials, the Corset, and the Crinoline	201
Of Ceremonial and Bridal Dress	211
Of Dancing Dresses, European and Oriental, Ancient and Modern	225
Of Theatrical Dress	236

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ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOURED
PAGE
Coquelin, as Cyrano de Bergerac. (From a Water-Colour
Drawing by Percy Anderson)
In Ancient Greece	To face
In the Twelfth Century	"
In the Thirteenth Century	"
The Queen of Richard II.	"
A German Student in the Fourteenth Century	"
Varieties of the Hennin	"
In the Eighteenth Century	"
Albanian Peasants	"
In Corfu To-day	"
In China of Old	"
The Seville Orange	"
An Egyptian Dancer	"
Isolde	"
Lewis Waller as Henry V.	"
Othello	"
IN THE TEXT
Two Hand-Mirrors
A Roman HeadA Greek Head
A Roman Lady
A Dress laced in the FrontA Dress laced at the Back
A CoronetA Brooch
A Plain Wimple
A Shoe
Dagged Costume in the Twelfth Century
A Clasped and Jewelled GirdleA Cloak-Fastener
Henry III.'s Queen
A Simple Buttoned Gown
A Quaint Wimple
The Head-dress of Henry IV.A Head Drapery held with Plaited Hair
Embroidered Gloves
An Elaborate Head-dress in the Reign of Henry V.
Elizabeth of Woodville
The Horned Head-dress
Head-dress of Jewelled Velvet and Lawn
The Houppelande
A GirdleA Pointed Shoe
Elizabeth of York
In the Time of Henry VII.
A Trio of Ruffs
Queen Elizabeth in Full Dress
A Chemisette
An Italian Lady
Two Italian CoiffuresAn Italian Gentleman
A Spaniard in the Sixteenth Century
A Shoulder-Jacket
The Cape with Buttoned Sleeve
Maximilian
A Feather and a Chicken-skin Fan
A Full Apron
The Lace Commode
Clogs and Chopines
A Mob-Cap
Glove with Jewelled Gauntlet
A Riding Costume
Madame de Pompadour
Marie Antoinette
A Peignoir
A Coiffure
A Variety of Head-dresses adopted in the Eighteenth Century
A Cap and Hood
Some Sticks
Some Quaint Examples of Nineteenth-Century Headgear
Lady Blessington
Lady BlessingtonLady Dalmeny
Two CoiffuresEarly Victorian Styles
In the Nineteenth Century
The Austrian Peasant-Bride in Black
A Croatian Peasant
A Croatian Peasant
A Greek Peasant in Medival Days
A Greek PeasantA Greek Peasant WomanA Greek PriestA Greek Brigand
A Westphalian Peasant
A Hungarian Peasant in the Seventeenth Century
A Chinese Actor
A Chinese Peasant
An Egyptian Peasant Woman
An Egyptian Water-Carrier
An Egyptian Peasant
An Old Indian Festival Dress
A Botticelli Dancing-Dress
An Eighteenth-Century Pierrot
A South Sea Islander
The Knave of Diamonds
Miss Ellen Terry as Mistress Page

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