Authors note: Foods in this book may be unfamiliar, especially to those who have never been to the Southwest. I urge readers to be absolutely certain to identify wild edible plants, flowers, and herbs before eating them and to adhere to any special instructions or warnings I have included in the recipes. Most states have laws against the removal of some of their native plants from their natural habitat and on the collection of seeds and fruits. Check regulations in your own state for the law and to see if any plants are protected or endangered before harvesting anything that grows in the wild. This ensures and protects these plants and makes them available for future generations. I also suggest that inexperienced hunters purchase game meats from a butcher or meat supplier, as wild animals may carry disease.
Copyright 2002 by Lois Ellen Frank
Photographs copyright 2002 by Lois Ellen Frank
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Originally published in the United States by Clarkson Potter, New York, in 1991.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Frank, Lois Ellen.
Foods of the Southwest Indian nations: traditional & contemporary Native American recipes / Lois Ellen Frank; culinary advisors, Walter Whitewater, Sam Etheridge; design by Jennifer Barry.
p. cm.
1. Indian cookery. 2. Cookery, AmericanSouthwestern style. 3. Indians of North AmericaFoodSouthwest, New. I. Title.
TX715.F8354 2002
641.59297dc21 2002002094
eBook ISBN: 9780307814692
Hardcover ISBN: 9781580083980
Cover Design by Jennifer Barry Design, Sausalito, CA
by Sean C. Casey
Photograph : Walter Whitewater, Din (Navajo) from Pinon, Arizona .
v3.1
C ONTENTS
T o the Native elders, especially the women who have shared many of their food ways, opened their homes and hearts, and who carry the knowledge of their cultural traditions. May we ask questions and learn all that we can from our elders, for they are the ones that possess knowledge.
To my grandmothers,
Grandma Liz and Nana Rose who have gone on
And to my family:
my mother, Jeanne
my father, Henry, and stepmother, Arlene
my sister, Cynthia
and my brothers, Gregory and Glenn
And to Walters grandmother,
Susie Whitewater Begay (Din)
A CKNOWLEDGMENTS
Many more people than I ever could have imagined helped me in the completion of this book. I am so grateful to each and every one of them for their support.
The spirit of this book comes from the Indian women who patiently taught me how to make some of the recipes and demonstrated their cooking techniques for traditional dishes.
I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the following people:
Walter Whitewater for his culinary advice, for helping test all the recipes for this book, and his assistance on the photographsboth the food shots in the studio and many of the people shots on location. He worked many tireless hours on the completion of this book.
Sam Etheridge for his culinary advice and for helping test and shoot many of the meat recipes.
John Sedlar for his culinary expertise on the adaptation of the original recipes to the first manuscript.
My sister, Cynthia J. Frank, for helping to write the original manuscript for this book and to organize my thoughts so that they could be put into words in the first edition.
Susan Southcott and Norman Stewart, two of the most talented food stylists who helped with the food styling of the original photographs from the first edition.
Mark Miller for writing the foreword to this book, and all the collaborations and projects we have worked on over the years.
Dr. Beverly Singer, for writing the foreword to this book as a representation of Native Peoples.
My advisor and head of my committee at the University of New Mexico, Dr. Mari Lyn Salvador for her help and support. She helped me to crystallize my thoughts and present them in this book in a clear and concise way.
Dr. Karl Schwerin, member of my committee at UNM, who helped with all of the botanical names and information on many of the native foods of the Southwest and their histories.
Annie Nelson, my editor at Ten Speed Press, for her patience and help on the text of this book.
Jenny Barry for her beautiful design work on this book.
Thanks to the following Native American people who opened up their hearts and their homes, both on and off the reservations. Each has helped in a multitude of ways. Their names and tribal affiliations are:
Walter Whitewater and his family, Grandma Susie;Thomas Mike; Linda Begay; her children Courtney and Cassandra; and granddaughter, Mara Fiona ( Din from Pinon, Arizona ).
And Walters daughter, Calandra Willie ( Din from Seba, Arizona ).
Rita and George Yazzie, their daughter Ann-Marie, and her children, Tiffany and Tim Junior ( Din from Pinon, Arizona ).
Maggie Begay; Francine Yeigh; her daughter, Yvette Griswold; Joe and Emily Begay, and their children ( Din from Pinon, Arizona ).
Grandma Louise Begaye; her son, Paul C. Begaye Tohlakai, and all her other children, their spouses, and their children ( Din from Pinon, Arizona ).
Lola and Billy Hayes ( Whittier, California and Pinon, Arizona ).
Juanita Tiger Kavena and her wonderful family: Wilmer, Maria, Tita, Chibbon, Alisha, Natyo, Lisa, and the late Tracy ( Hopi from First Mesa, Arizona ).
E.J. Satala; his late parents, Granny and Grampa; his sister, Hazel; his son, Spike; and all the members of the Honanie family ( Hopi from Polacca, Arizona ).
Genevieve Kaursgowva ( Hopi from Hotevilla, Arizona ).
Richard and Margie Mermejo and all of their family, children, and grandchildren ( Picuris Pueblo, New Mexico ).
Ann Taliman ( Santa Clara Pueblo, New Mexico ).
Charlotte and Phillip Titla ( Apache from San Carlos, Arizona ).
Del Mar Boni ( San Carlos Apache ) and Gila River ( Pima Reservation ).
Gina Marie Thomas and her daughter, Alisia ( White River Apache, White River, Arizona ).
Sarah H. Adeky and her family ( Ramah Navajo Tribe, Ramah, New Mexico ).
Jolene Eustace-Hanelt ( Zuni and Cochiti Pueblo, Santa Fe, New Mexico ).
Ella Marie Covington ( Tohono Oodham from Tucson, Arizona ).
Tedra Begay ( Din from Gilbert, Arizona ).
I would also like to show my appreciation to the following tribes, Pueblos, and people for their participation in and contributions to this book:
John Bowannie and Lena Jaramillo, Cochiti Pueblo, Cochiti, New Mexico. Lucille Watahomigie, Hualapai Reservation, Peach Springs, Arizona. Lupita S. Garcia; Juanita K. Jojola; Teddy Lente; and Anita S. Abeita, Isleta Pueblo, Isleta, New Mexico. Betty Johnson and Maria Elena Roybal, Isleta Pueblo, Isleta, New Mexico. Inez Toya and Angie Trujillo, Jemez Pueblo, Jemez, New Mexico. Margaret Archuleta and Mary Ann Martinez, Picuris Pueblo, Penasco, New Mexico. Frank Gutierrez, Janice Naranjo, and Tessie Naranjo, Santa Clara Pueblo, Espaola, New Mexico. Dr. Donald S. Heany and Annabel Eagle, Southern Ute Tribe, Ignacio, Colorado. Lillian Romero, Taos Pueblo, Taos, New Mexico. Sue Dorame, Tesuque Pueblo, Tesuque, New Mexico.