Josephine Quintero - Lonely Planet Cyprus

A fractured identity, a passionate people and a culture, landscape and lifestyle that capture the imagination and are full of surprises.

Experiencing the intrinsically different Greek and Turkish societies of modern Cyprus is increasingly easy for visitors. To date, there are seven access points linking the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot sides, including two pedestrian crossings in Lefkosia. In theory, foreign tourists are permitted to cross and stay up to three months, although its not currently possible to enter Cyprus on one side of the line and leave from the other.

The landscape and overall mild climate means that outside is where its at and where you should be. First, there are the beaches, including everything from wild and windswept to family friendly and packed. Every conceivable water sport is also on offer, from scuba diving the watery depths to skimming the surface on a kite- or windsurf board. Tired of all that blue? Head to the interior where pine-clad mountains, sweeping valleys and densely planted vineyards offer endless scope ranging from hiking and biking to wine-tasting tours and, yes, even winter skiing.

The story of Cyprus tumultuous past is told through its historic sites, its Roman ruins, its multi-faceted museums and its dusty urban streets. This ease of accessibility is highlighted in Pafos, where one of the most important archaeological sites sprawls like an ancient theme park next to a pack-in-the-punters tourist resort. Digging into the islands past has unearthed extraordinary relics, includingNeolithic dwellings, Bronze Age and Phoenician tombs and exquisite Roman mosaics while, on the streets, keep your eyes peeled for Venetian walls, Byzantine castles and churches, Roman monasteries and Islamic mosques.

Who can resist meze? Surely this is the only way to eattantalising the tastebuds with a feast of small dishes, ranging from creamy hummus to spicy grilled sausage and everything in between. Heavily influenced by Turkish, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine, Cypriot food includes some culinary stars unique to the island, like haloumi (helimi) cheese. Kebabs are also in a league of their own: sizzling and succulent with spicy red pepper or onions and black pepper. Stuffed vine leaves, lamb casseroles, juicy baked moussaka, tropical fresh fruit juices and desserts ah, the desserts flavoured with almonds, rose water and pistachios, creamy rice puddings, and baklava. Of course, you wont be able to sample any of the above unless youre discerning: avoid restaurants that advertise international cuisine with sun-bleached photos on the sidewalk.

Petra tou Romiou, Pafos
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