Anthony Ham - Lonely Planet Kenya

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Kenya is the Africa you always dreamed of. This is a land of vast savannahs, immense herds of wildlife and peoples with proud traditions on the soil where human beings were born.

Zebras and Mt Kilimanjaro, Amboseli National Park ()
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When you think of Africa, youre probably thinking of Kenya. Its the lone acacia silhouetted against a horizon stretching into eternity. Its the snowcapped mountain almost on the equator and within sight of harsh deserts. Its the lush, palm-fringed coastline of the Indian Ocean, its the Great Rift Valley that once threatened to tear the continent asunder, and its the dense forests reminiscent of the continents heart. With so much variety, Kenyas landscapes are far more than a mere backdrop to the countrys wildlife and peoples. Instead, Kenya has soul, a gravitas bequeathed to it by epic landforms and a natural environment that stirs our deepest longings for this very special continent.

Peopling that landscape, adding depth and resonance to Kenyas age-old story, are some of Africas best-known peoples. The Maasai, the Samburu, the Turkana, Swahili, the Kikuyu: these are the peoples whose histories and daily struggles tell the story of a country and of a continent the struggle to maintain traditions as the modern world crowds in, the daily fight for survival in some of the harshest environments on earth, the ancient tension between those who farm and those who roam. Drawing near to these cultures, even coming to understand them a little better through your presence among them, could just be a highlight of your visit. And its not only about tradition: this may be a country of many tribes, but its also a fiercely proud and modern country, one where being called Kenyan is increasingly seen as a badge of honour.

Then, of course, theres the wildlife. This is the land of the Masai Mara, of wildebeest and zebras migrating in their millions, with the great predators of Africa lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas following in their wake. This is the land of the red elephants and black rhinos of Tsavo, a wilderness almost brought to its knees by poaching and yet which somehow survived to thrive again. And this is a place where youll have so many experiences that will come back to you in vivid detail long after youve returned home: elephant families wallowing in swamps in the shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro, the massed millions of pink flamingos bathing elegantly in lake shallows, the landscape suddenly fallen silent and brought to attention by the arrival of an as-yet-unseen predator. Africa is the last great wilderness where these creatures survive. And theres nowhere better than Kenya to answer Africas call of the wild.

Maasai men, Masai Mara National Reserve ()
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Studded with flat-top acacia trees, the rolling savannahs of the Masai Mara National Reserve () support some of the highest concentrations of wildlife on the planet, and provide the stage on which the legendary wildebeest migration is played out. From August, the Maras plains are flooded with literally millions of these ungainly animals, along with herds of zebras, elephants and giraffes. Trailing this veritable walking buffet are prides of lions, solitary cheetahs and packs of laughing hyenas. Yes, come August in the Mara, its most definitely game on.

Wildebeest and zebras crossing the Mara River
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Elephants of Amboseli National Park

Theres possibly no better place in the world to watch elephants than Amboseli National Park () in the countrys south. A big part of the appeal is the setting Africas highest mountain, the snowcapped Mt Kilimanjaro, is the backdrop for seemingly every picture youll take here. Just as significant, Amboseli was spared the worst of Kenyas poaching crisis and these elephants are remarkably tolerant of human presence (allowing you to get really close). And their tusks are among the biggest in Kenya.

Elephants in front of Mt Kilimanjaro, Amboseli National Park
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Wandering Lamu Backstreets

Lamu () is surely the most evocative destination on the Kenyan coast. With no cars around, the best way to get to know this graceful town is by wandering its backstreets, admiring the grand old Swahili doors, peeking into hidden courtyards bursting with unexpected colours, slipping into an easy chair and sipping on fruit juices, and accepting all invitations to stop and shoot the breeze (chat). Do all this and the backstreets of Lamu will become a place youll dream of forever.

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Hiking Mt Kenya

Mt Kenya () is the countrys highest peak and the second highest on the continent. Located in the heart of the country and in the hearts of the Kikuyu people, this is not a mountain to be admired from afar. With four days, some determination and several layers of warm clothing, you could find yourself standing on the frozen summit of Point Lenana, mere minutes from the equator, but a whole world away from the other African experiences.

Chogoria route, Mt Kenya
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Kakamega Forest

Paths lace the Kakamega Forest () and offer a rare opportunity to ditch the safari 4WD and stretch your legs. This ancient forest is home to an astounding 330 bird species, 400 butterfly species and seven different primate species. Like all rainforests, though, the trees themselves are the chief attraction here, and in the forest gloom youll stumble upon the botanical equiv- alent of beauty and the beast: delicate orchids and parasitic figs that strangle their hosts as they climb towards the light.