Regis St. Louis - Lonely Planet Ecuador & the Galapagos islands

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Picturesque colonial centers, Kichwa villages, Amazonian rainforest and the breathtaking heights of the Andes Ecuador may be small, but it has a dazzling array of wonders.

Cuencas Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcin ()
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The historic centers of Quito and Cuenca both Unesco World Heritage Sites are lined with photogenic plazas, 17th-century churches and monasteries, and beautifully restored mansions. Wandering the cobblestone streets amid architectural treasures from Spanish colonial days is a fine way to delve into the past. You can travel further back by contemplating great pre-Columbian artworks at museums across the country.

Beyond the cities, the Ecuadorian landscape unfolds in all its startling variety. There are Andean villages renowned for their colorful textiles and sprawling markets, Afro-Ecuadorian towns where days end with meals of fresh seafood and memorable sunsets, and remote settlements in the Amazon where shamans still harvest the traditional rainforest medicines of their ancestors.

Setting off on a trek into the Andes can seem like stepping into a fairy tale: theres the patchwork of small villages, gurgling brooks and rolling fields, with a slowly wheeling condor overhead. Then the mists clear, a view of those towering snow-covered peaks comes into view, and the adventure begins the challenging climb to the summit of a 5000m-high volcano.

Although the view from the top is sublime, you dont have to scale a mountain to enjoy the Andes. These verdant landscapes make a fine backdrop for mountain-biking, horseback-riding or hiking from village to village, overnighting at local guesthouses along the way. Ecuadors other landscapes offer equally alluring adventures, from surfing tight breaks off the Pacific coast to white-water rafting Class V rivers along the jungle-clad banks of the Oriente.

The famed Galpagos Islands, with their volcanic, otherworldly landscapes, are a magnet for wildlife lovers. Here, you can get up close and personal with massive lumbering tortoises, scurrying marine iguanas (the worlds only seagoing lizard), doe-eyed sea lions, prancing blue-footed boobies and a host of other unusual species both on land and sea.

The Amazon rainforest offers a vastly different wildlife-watching experience. From a remote lodge tucked away in the jungle, you set out on the rivers and trails snaking through the undergrowth in search of monkeys, sloths, toucans, river dolphins, anacondas and other creatures. Some lodges also have canopy towers offering magnificent views (and a better chance to see birdlife).

Speaking of birds, premontane cloud forest is yet another biologically rich area, and home to a fantastic array of avian life. Indeed the Mindo area, with more than 350 recorded bird species, is one of the best bird-watching sites in all of South America.

Flower sellers at the Otavalo market ()
ORIENT/HUBER/4CORNERS @

Quito Old Town

A Spanish-colonial stunner, Quitos vibrant Centro Histrico () is packed with elaborate churches and mournful monasteries (some centuries in the making), people-packed plazas and looming bell towers. History lurks around every corner of this well-preserved center. Delve into the past by stepping off the cobblestones and entering beautifully maintained museums, historic mansions and jaw-dropping sanctuaries. Afterwards, have a meal in one of El Centros old-world restaurants or join the festivities on lively La Ronda street before retiring to one of the many charming guesthouses in the neighborhood.

ALFREDO MAIQUEZ/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Iguana Spotting in the Galpagos

There arent many places that can beat the Galpagos Islands () for close encounters of the prehistoric kind. Rather than scurrying away when approached, the unique lizard species of iguanas found throughout the archipelago go about their slow-moving business with little concern for the clicking cameras. The dark gray or black marine iguanas pile on top of one another like a messy pyramid of cheerleaders basking in the sun, whereas the imposing yellow land iguanas nibble on cactus plants for sustenance.

KRISTIN PILJAY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Local Crafts at Otavalo Market

Every Saturday the world seems to converge on the bustling indigenous town of Otavalo () in the Andes, where a huge market (which goes on in a rather redacted form every other day of the week, too) spreads out from the Plaza de Ponchos throughout the town. The choice is enormous, the quality immensely changeable and the crowds can be a drag, but youll find some incredible bargains here among the brightly colored rugs, traditional crafts, clothing, striking folk art and quality straw hats.

LEE FOSTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Parque Nacional Yasun

This vast tract of protected rainforest () contains a simply dazzling biodiversity matched almost nowhere else on earth. Excitement-filled canoe trips through tiny overgrown creeks and hikes across the jungle floor with experienced guides reveal all manner of flowers, plants and creatures, many of which youll not even have heard of before, let alone seen in real life, while several populations of indigenous peoples continue to resist contact with the outside world here. This natural wonder remains, at present, unspoiled.

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY

Cuenca

The fairy-tale colonial center of Cuenca () is a Unesco World Heritage Site thats been charming visitors since the 16th century. And while the cobblestone streets, polychrome building fronts and remarkably well-preserved cathedral will have you snapping a photo on nearly every corner, its the towns laid-back feel, friendly locals and bohemian spirit that will truly fill your heart and soul. Top that off with great nightlife, plenty of museums and galleries, and some of Ecuadors best eateries, and theres no doubt why this is the bar-none top highlight of southern Ecuador.