Marc Di Duca - Lonely Planet Ukraine

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Big, diverse and largely undiscovered, Ukraine is one of Europes last genuine travel frontiers, a poor nation rich in colour-splashed tradition, warm-hearted people and off-the-map travel experiences

The word Ukraine means land on the edge, an apt title for this vast slab of Eurasia in more ways than one. This is the Slavic hinterland on Europes periphery, European Russias underbelly on the doorstep of Central Asia and the fringe of the Black Sea, but its also a country creeping slowly towards the edge of change and modernity. The 2004 Orange Revolution lit a bitterly disappointing false dawn, the world economic slowdown walloped this country hard and recent political changes have been labelled Ukraines great leap backwards, but things are, nonetheless, shifting forward little by little in Europes biggest country. One look at the renovated city centres, well-dressed townsfolk, resurfaced roads and all the glistening infrastructure bolted in place for the 2012 European Soccer Championships (the worlds third-largest sporting event) is enough to see that after two decades of independence, Ukraine is edging long-term toward where it aspires to be, despite its squabbling politicians and meddlesome neighbours.

A trip to what is, for many, an unfamiliar destination can seem slightly daunting, but fear not Ukraine is currently taking a soccer-inspired crash course in how to look after travellers. Long gone are the days when, visa in hand, you were group-herded around approved sights by the state travel agency, though some Ukrainians, particularly the elderly, are still shocked to learn Westerners dare travel independently or solo. Visas have (hopefully) gone forever, getting around the country has never been easier, frayed Soviet hotels are renovating, imaginative restaurants are being created in big cities and even (drum roll) bona fide tourist information centres are springing up, at least in the countrys west. Whether you come for lazy beach holidays in Crimea, hire a mountain bike in the Carpathians, stay in European-style luxury in Kyiv or camp out at an ethno rock festival, youll be doing something that was barely possible a decade and a half ago.

Travel may be simpler and more entertaining than it once was, but the whiff of Soviet hospitality does remain. Ukraine still specialises in blind waiters, dumbstruck receptionists, nail-filing ticket sellers and devious policemen. Very few people outside Kyiv and Lviv speak English and facilities are often shoddy, antiquated or just not up to the job. But embrace the post-Soviet disarray, select your itinerary carefully and engage with Ukraines wonderfully kind and generous people, and we guarantee your time in Ukraine will be well spent.

Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, Kyiv

Discover mysteries of Eastern Orthodoxy and descend into catacombs to see mummies of much- revered saints on an excursion to the holy of holies for all eastern Slavs. Founded as a cave monastery in 1051, the lavra () is filled with golden-domed churches, baroque buildings and orchards. Religious ceremonies take place in lavishly decorated, icon-filled interiors, accompanied by beautiful choir singing and attended by crowds of pilgrims and monks. There are great collections of Scythian gold, micro-miniatures and more in museums located on the premises.

Dormition Cathedral ()
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Carpathian Landscapes

By and large Ukraine is as flat as a topographically challenged blin (pancake), which makes its bumpy bits all the more special. Ukraines slice of the Carpathian arc barely reaches over 2000m, but its soothing wooded slopes, rough stony trails, flower-filled upland pastures and wide, snaking valleys make this prime hiking, biking and skiing territory. Needless to say, the Carpathians () are home to Ukraines highest peak, Mt Hoverla, a fairly easy trek from nearby villages, as well as several ski resorts.

Carpathian countryside, near Uzhhorod
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Lvivs Ploshcha Rynok

Lviv is the pulsating heart of Ukraine, and the main square, pl Rynok (), is the bustling heart of Lviv. Plonked in the middle is the huge ratusha (town hall), around which mill clutches of camera-toting tourists and quick-footed locals. The aroma of freshly milled coffee beans wafts across the square from the citys legendary cafes, and summer tables tumble out across the Habsburg-era cobbles as old Soviet-era trams rumble past. Take a seat, order a coffee and watch it all roll by.

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Andriyivsky Uzviz, Kyiv

The apostle Andrew is said to have climbed this steep ascent to erect a cross and prophesise the rise of Kyiv. Today its the haunt of artists, who install their canvases on this cobbled Montmartre-like street, which in true decadent style Kyivites call Andrews Descent (). Packed with souvenir stands selling all sorts of junk, the uzviz has heaps of Bohemian charm and is great for people-watching. Here Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov wrote The White Guard, perhaps the best novel about Kyiv and its people; his house is now a museum.

JOHN WARBURTON-LEE PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY

Kamyanets-Podilsky

Ringed by the dramatic gorge of the Smotrych River, there are few more eye-pleasing spots in Ukraine than this Podillyan town (). A stroll from the new bridge takes you through the cobbled quarters of this once divided community, past beautifully renovated churches, crumbling palaces and forgotten pieces of the once beefy defences, to the towns impossibly picturesque fortress, surely one of the highlights of any visit to Ukraine. And the best thing? Outside high season you may have the place entirely to yourself.

MARTIN MOOS

Pyrohovo Museum of Folk Architecture, Kyiv

You can safely claim youve seen all of Ukraine after a visit to Pyrohovo () a large chunk of countryside just outside Kyiv filled with traditional wooden architecture representing all parts of the country. Whole churches, windmills, shops and houses were brought here from their original villages, providing a wonderful backdrop for folk festivals, which frequently take place on the grounds. Here Transcarpathia is walking distance from the Poltava region, although it might be a strenuous walk, as the area is huge indeed.